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300<br />
CENTRAL LAOS<br />
14<br />
SAVANNAKHET<br />
Phonepaseud Hotel This is the best option in town for both midrange and toprange<br />
accommodations. It consists <strong>of</strong> a very pleasant series <strong>of</strong> semidetached bungalows in<br />
leafy grounds. You can park your vehicle right outside your bungalow, making packing<br />
and unpacking very easy if you are on a self-drive. <strong>The</strong> staff is friendly to the point <strong>of</strong><br />
being playful, and they spend an awful lot <strong>of</strong> their time both looking at and talking about<br />
the giant whitefish in the tank in reception. Some <strong>of</strong> the rooms could be a little lighter<br />
but they are all large and comfortable. If you really want to splash out on the Super-VIP<br />
Suite for $100, you will be treated to a palatial space with a TV screen so large that it will<br />
cause you to feel positively Lilliputian. <strong>The</strong> one disadvantage <strong>of</strong> this hotel is that it is<br />
some distance from town. Getting a tuk-tuk seems to be no problem, however, and the<br />
staff will flag you down a ride and negotiate the standard price. <strong>The</strong>re is an attached<br />
restaurant with a perfectly acceptable serving <strong>of</strong> local dishes and a Western breakfast<br />
(main courses 25,000 kip–35,000 kip).<br />
Santisouk Rd. & 041/212-158. Fax 041/212-916. 69 units. $35–$45 VIP; $100 VIP suite. MC, V. Amenities:<br />
Restaurant; room service. In room: A/C, TV, fridge.<br />
Saisouk Guest House This is the backpacker option <strong>of</strong> choice and is very basic, but<br />
perfectly well maintained and well run. <strong>The</strong> English-speaking owners are friendly and<br />
understand their market well. <strong>The</strong>re are 10 rooms, <strong>of</strong> which two are A/C doubles and the<br />
rest fan doubles (four with shared bathroom) in a fairly pleasant old wooden building.<br />
But don’t expect to be encountering luxuries such as hot showers anytime soon.<br />
Phetsalat Rd. & 041/212-207. 8 units. 30,000 kip fan and shared bathroom; 40,000 kip fan and bathroom;<br />
60,000 kip A/C. No credit cards. In room: A/C (2 rooms).<br />
Sala Savanh In Lao this name means “Paradise Lodge.” It is a renovated colonial<br />
building dating from 1926, located in the heart <strong>of</strong> the central district <strong>of</strong> the old city. It<br />
has charming grounds with a shaded sala in which to relax. <strong>The</strong> atmosphere is genuinely<br />
retro and cozy with a touch <strong>of</strong> faded grandeur. <strong>The</strong> rooms have a homey feel with darkwood<br />
floors, slatted shutters, and rustic bedspreads.<br />
129 Kouvoravong St. & 041/212-445. Fax 041/252-096. www.salalao.com. 5 units. $28 double. No credit<br />
cards. In room: A/C, TV, fridge.<br />
Xayamoungkhoun Guest House This is a clean but slightly run-down option in<br />
a very central part <strong>of</strong> town. <strong>The</strong> rooms are large and airy. <strong>The</strong> building itself is from the<br />
French colonial era and is airy with tiled walls (slightly flaky) and wooden floors. <strong>The</strong><br />
nicest feature is the large second floor communal balcony. A major advantage <strong>of</strong> this<br />
place is that the management is very friendly and helpful. <strong>The</strong>y also <strong>of</strong>fer tours.<br />
House 84, Ravongseuk Rd. & 041/212-426. 15 units. 50,000 kip fan double; 70,000 kip A/C double. No<br />
credit cards. In room: A/C (5 rooms), TV, fridge (5 rooms).<br />
WHERE TO DINE<br />
Where once Savannakhet was a bit <strong>of</strong> a trial on the food front, these days you have quite<br />
a number <strong>of</strong> attractive options both Lao and French. Apart from the many restaurants<br />
the riverfront near the old immigration building is a place to sit in low plastic chairs and<br />
chow down on steaming bowls <strong>of</strong> soup cooked at the table on earthenware pots full <strong>of</strong><br />
hot coals. Around here during the day you will also find vendors selling khao ji pâté<br />
(warm baguette sandwiches with pâté and vegetables). All restaurants listed are cash only.<br />
<strong>The</strong> Dao Savanh FRENCH This is an excellent authentic French restaurant<br />
in a beautifully renovated (in 2006) colonial-era town house. When you first