The Best of Cambodia & Laos

containing an oxygen generator in case of a gas attack. Kaysone’s house sits at
the front of the cave. Tham Than Nouhak is nearby and was the home of Kaysone’s
main sidekick and fellow Savannakhet native. Tham Than Souphanouvong
is a cave fit for a prince, and indeed this figurehead of the Pathet Lao was
half brother to his opposition leaders, Prince Phetsarath and Prince Souvannaphoumma.
This war was a family affair at the highest echelons. The Red
Prince lived here with his wife and 10 children from 1963 to 1973. The prince
had a garage for his car and a patio on which to enjoy his breakfast. The cave is
approached through a line of pomelo trees. Tham Than Phoumi was the
home of the Phoumi Vongvichit, who became minister of information after
Pathet Lao victory. It was enlarged using explosives. Tham Than Khamtay is
named after Khamtay Siphandone, president of Laos from 1992 to 2006 and
one of the Pathet Lao’s most important military strategists. This is an artificial
cave. Below it is a natural cave that was a barracks for hundreds of soldiers, but
was also used for theatrical and sporting events as well as the occasional wedding.
Most people choose to stay in Sam Neua about an hour’s drive away. This is
best reached by bus via Nong Kiaow to Luang Prabang on Rte. 6 and then Rte. 1.
This a 16-hour journey all the way (a stopover in Nong Kiaow is advisable). You
can also reach it from Ponsavanh via Rte. 7 and then turn off left onto Rte. 6.
Lao Air also flies to Sam Neua three times a week, although flights are often
canceled due to fog or low passenger counts. Although there are plenty of
accommodations in Sam Neua, the Bounhome Guest House (& 064/312-223;
50,000 kip double) is regarded as the best, with a good second choice being
the Kheamxam Guest House (& 064/312-111; 50,000 kip double).
explanation is that they are funerary urns. This theory is supported by the more recent
discovery of underground burial chambers. Some traces of human bodies have been
found in the jars, while it is likely that the vessels themselves contained treasure. This has
long ago been looted by the various rampaging invaders who have swept back and forth
across these rolling hills. The jars appear in a number of different shapes, sizes, and positions;
many lying prone on their side were most likely tipped over by avaricious looters.
Three of the biggest clusters of jars have been designated as officially recognized tourist
sites, and an effort has been made to clear them of explosives. The whole area is still
littered with the brutal confetti of war. Red markers around the sites tell you which areas
have not been cleared. You should keep an eye on these and stay within the safely delineated
areas.
Site One contains the most jars. This includes Hai Cheaum, or Cheaum Jar, the biggest
jar of all. The scenery here is fairly uninspiring as opposed to the attractive locations
in which you find other sites. It is the most popular site, and there are places set up selling
snacks and drinks. Site Two is majestically situated on top of a small hill. There are
some large and intriguing jars, with beautiful surrounding views. There are also quite a
number of areas of remaining uncleared land mines, so keep a look out for those signs.
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LUANG PRABANG & NORTHERN LAOS 13
PHONSAVAN & THE PLAIN OF JARS