The Best of Cambodia & Laos

next to the post office. The airport is 4km (2 1 ⁄2 miles) from town and a tuk-tuk costs
around 50,000 kip to the town center. The bus station is in the center of town. Most of
the departures are songthaeaws making short trips, but buses also depart for Vientiane,
Luang Prabang, and Sam Neua near the Vietnamese border. Most long-distance buses
leave early in the morning. It is 11 grueling hours to Vientiane and 10 no less grueling
hours to Luang Prabang.
Tuk-tuks are the main form of transport here and they are not hard to find. You can
also rent bicycles and motorcycles, but be aware that much of the surrounding countryside
is littered with potentially explosive hazards.
Phonsavan
Banks & Currency Exchange The Lao Development Bank (& 061/312-188) is on
Rte. 7 and will change cash only. Most travel agents will also change cash.
Hospitals The Lao-Mongolian Friendship Hospital (& 061/312-166) can deal
with very basic health problems only.
Internet Access There are a few Internet cafes around the center of town but the
connections are painfully slow.
Post Office The post office (& 061/312-005) is on Rte. 7 and domestic calls only
are available.
Tourism Information The Provincial Tourist Information Office (& 061/312-217)
is a short way up the road to the airport and has limited information. Travel agencies
are more helpful.
WHERE TO STAY & DINE
The Auberge de la Plaine des Jarres (& 061/312-044; $30 double) is a beautiful place
overlooking town with open fireplaces and excellent food. The Vansana Plain of Jars
Hotel (& 061/213-170; $30 single, $40 double, $50 suite) is also pretty grand for this
part of the world, with TV, minibar, and bathtub. Its elevated situation means that many
of the balconies have good views over the town. The Puchan Resort (& 061/312-264;
$30 double) sits on top of a hill overlooking the town. Behind are rolling green hills and
pine forests. Phuchan is made up of several large wooden bungalows. Each bungalow is
divided into three separate areas with a bedroom and bathroom. Rooms are large, and
simply but elegantly decorated. Bathrooms are very clean with a hot shower and Western
toilet. Each bungalow has a large rear balcony, with good views of the rolling views. The
Maly Hotel (& 061/312-031; $8–$50 double) has 30 rooms at a wide range of prices
depending on size and facilities. It is efficiently run and the staff is helpful. The restaurant
downstairs is one of the best in town (main courses 25,000 kip) serving both Western and
Lao food. The Poukham Guest House (& 061/312-121; $3 double) is a simple affair
directly across the main road from the bus station. It is popular with budget travelers.
They are also highly regarded for their wealth of local knowledge and tours. The Kong
Keo Guesthouse (& 061/211-354; www.kongkeojar.com; $3–$10 double) has seven
clean rooms with private toilet and hot shower (solar cells) and six bungalows, also with
private toilet and hot shower (solar cells). The lobby is in traditional Lao style. In the
garden at the front is a wooden shack that serves as a bar, and stacked all around the
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LUANG PRABANG & NORTHERN LAOS 13
PHONSAVAN & THE PLAIN OF JARS