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The Best of Cambodia & Laos

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Banks & Currency Exchange <strong>The</strong> Bank Pour Le Commerce Extérieur Lao (BCEL;<br />

Sisavangvong Rd.; Mon–Fri 8:30am–3:30pm) exchanges cash and traveler’s checks<br />

and issues U.S. dollars. <strong>The</strong>y advance money on MasterCard and Visa and charge<br />

3% commission. <strong>The</strong> nearby Lao Development Bank (Sisavangvong Rd.; Mon–Fri<br />

8:30am–3:30pm) also exchanges cash and traveler’s checks but does not advance<br />

money on credit cards. All along the main restaurant drag <strong>of</strong> Sisavangvong Road<br />

there are small exchange booths open until 9pm that will change cash and<br />

traveler’s checks, and make advances on MasterCard and Visa. <strong>The</strong> one attached<br />

to the Luang Prabang Bakery seems to <strong>of</strong>fer the best rates.<br />

Business Hours Generally shops are open from around 9am to 8pm on weekdays<br />

with slightly reduced hours on weekends. Cafes tend to run from about 8:30am<br />

to 9pm or 10pm. Many restaurants open for lunch and dinner only and will be<br />

closed between 2 and 5pm. Government <strong>of</strong>fices generally open Monday to Friday<br />

at 8:30am, close for lunch from noon until 1pm, and close again at 5pm. Many<br />

businesses are closed on Sunday.<br />

Bicycle & Motorcycle Rentals Many guesthouses <strong>of</strong>fer bicycles for rent for<br />

between $1 and $3 per day. It is also possible to rent small motorcycles from a<br />

few travel agents but they are expensive. <strong>The</strong>y all come from the same place and<br />

they cost $20 per day. If you want to rent a larger motorcycle for serious touring<br />

then it is better to arrange it in Vientiane. Remote Asia (www.remoteasia.com)<br />

can also send larger-capacity motorcycles from the capital to Luang Prabang.<br />

Climate Between late October and early February, Luang Prabang is pleasantly<br />

warm and usually sunny during the day. It can actually be really quite cold at<br />

night, however, so bring a pullover. <strong>The</strong> heat starts to build in early spring and<br />

the combination <strong>of</strong> midday sun and the dust can make it a little oppressive in<br />

the middle <strong>of</strong> the day. <strong>The</strong> rains break in May and June, when the climate remains<br />

hot but also becomes humid. <strong>The</strong> temperature cools in late summer. <strong>The</strong> best<br />

time to be in the city is between November and February in terms <strong>of</strong> weather<br />

but not in terms <strong>of</strong> crowds. During the rainy season the town entertains only a<br />

fraction <strong>of</strong> the high-season tourist population and given that rainfall tends to be<br />

sporadic rather than constant, it is actually quite a good time to experience Luang<br />

Prabang. You will certainly have more <strong>of</strong> it to yourself. Hotels also cut their room<br />

rates massively in the low season.<br />

Doctors & Hospitals <strong>The</strong> quality <strong>of</strong> healthcare in Luang Prabang is low. If you<br />

are afflicted by anything serious then you will need to get to Thailand. <strong>The</strong>re are<br />

two hospitals in town <strong>of</strong>fering rudimentary healthcare. <strong>The</strong> Provincial Hospital<br />

(Setthathirath Rd.; & 071/252-049) and the Chinese Hospital (Ban Phu Mok;<br />

& 071/254-026) can deal with relatively simple and nonserious ailments.<br />

Emergencies For police, dial & 071/212-453; for a medical emergency, call<br />

& 071/252-049.<br />

Internet Access <strong>The</strong>re are Internet cafes all over central Luang Prabang charging<br />

100 kip a minute before 10pm and 300 kip per minute afterward. A few places<br />

have free Wi-Fi, the best <strong>of</strong> which is the Chill Out Café in Dara Market.<br />

Pharmacies One <strong>of</strong> the more reliable pharmacies in town is the Boua Phanh<br />

Pharmacie (Sakkarine Rd.; & 071/252-252).<br />

285<br />

LUANG PRABANG & NORTHERN LAOS FAST FACTS: LUANG PRABANG<br />

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