The Best of Cambodia & Laos

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280 WALKING TOUR: LUANG PRABANG LUANG PRABANG & NORTHERN LAOS 13 4 Wats at Sisavangvong and Sakkarine In this area, drop into Wat Mai (before the Royal Palace), Wat Nong, Wat Sene, and Wat Khili. Each of these wats is an absolute jewel. TAKE A BREAK Stop for lunch at any one of the superb restaurants on both Sisavangvong Road and Sakkarine Road when the temples become tiring. At the end of the peninsula is: 5 Wat Xieng Thong This is the premier wat of Luang Prabang. With its exquisite exterior, typically Lao sweeping roof, and intricately carved doors, it is a cultural highlight. Exit Wat Xieng and walk up Kingkitsarath Road. Keep Mount Phousi at your right, then turn into Phommathat road and then Visunerath Road where you will find: 6 Wat Visoun and Wat Aham These two magnificent structures feature beautiful statues and stupas (including Wat Visoun’s “Watermelon Stupa”), and viewing them is the perfect end to your day of temple hopping. When you get to Setthathilrath Road, turn right and walk straight down to the Mekong, stopping at: 7 Dara Market Enjoy a cup of coffee at the Chill Out Café (p. 267) and do a little stall browsing at the Dara Market. Wander down to the boat pier and walk down the steps to the riverbank itself. Here you have a great view of the small mountain on the other side of the Mekong, behind which the sun sinks dramatically, silhouetting the working riverboats as they chug along the waters or sit lethargically at their moorings. Sights Outside the City Other sights outside of town include Wat Phon Phao (Peacefulness Temple), a golden stupa on a hilltop about 5km (3 miles) away, best viewed from afar—though the view back to town from its height is worth the trek. From here, visit nearby Ban Phanom Weaving Village, a now-commercialized weaving collective where you can find deals on Lao Ikat patterns and hand-woven bags. Just past Ban Phanom and hidden in a jungle riverside area (signs point the way down the embankment), find the Tomb of Henri Mouhot, the 19th-century French explorer credited with the rediscovery of Cambodia’s Angkor Wat. He died in Luang Prabang of malaria while hunting the source of the Mekong. Day trips across the Mekong to small temples and villages are also popular and can be arranged with boat drivers at quay-side. Kuangsi Waterfall As famous now for its recent collapse as anything, Kuangsi was a tower of champagne-glass limestone formations until the whole structure fell in on itself in 2003. Locals say that tour operators became too greedy and neglected local spirits, called Pi. The falls are still beautiful, but less so. The ride here, however, is quite spectacular. You’ll have to travel by songthaeaw (covered pickup) for $5 per person if shared, or by boat and tuk-tuk for the same fee. Another option, Tad Se Waterfall, is 21km (13 miles) from town and good for swimming, even if it’s less spectacular in height than Kuangsi. During the rainy season, the falls are stunning. Hire a driver for about $5 or pay a bit extra for a ferryboat. 36km (20 miles) south of town. Admission 10,000 kip. Daily dawn–dusk. Pak Ou Caves The longtail-boat ride on the Mekong is alone a worthy day trip. This stretch of river is lovely—and from the base of the cave entrance, you get a view of
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 Mount Phousi Wat Pua Hak Royal Palace Temples on Sisavangvong and Sakkarine Wat Xieng Thong Wat Visoun and Wat Aham Dara Market Phothisarath Phothisarath Rd. Rd. Old Stadium Phou Vao Rd. Boats to Vientiane Mekong River Rd. Rd. Khong Khong Khem Khem Bunkhong Bunkhong Rd. Rd. 0 finish Boats Boats to to Pak Pak Ou Ou Dara Market Rd. Rd. Noradeth Noradeth 0 0.25 km Khem Khem Khong Khong Rd. Rd. 3 Sisavangvong Sisavangvong Rd. Rd. Setthathilath Setthathilath Rd. Rd. 7 Walking Tour: Luang Prabang 1/4 mi Chao Chao Sisouphan Sisouphan Rd. Rd. Samsenthai Samsenthai Rd. Rd. 2 Phamahapasan Phamahapasan Rd. Rd. 1 start Visunniath Visunniath Rd. Rd. Naviengkhan Naviengkhan Rd. Rd. Khem Khem Khong Khong Rd. Rd. Kounxoa Kounxoa Rd. Sakkarine Sakkarine Rd. Rd. Nam Nam Khan Khan River River Phommathat Phommathat Rd. Rd. 6 4 Chao Chao Xomphou Xomphou Rd. Rd. Kingkitsarath Kingkitsarath Rd. Rd. Chao Chao Gningthongsi Gningthongsi Rd. Rd. Old Bridge 5 Vieng Mai Market Sisattanak Sisattanak Rd. Rd. the high cliffs and swirling water of the Nam Ou River as it joins the Mekong. Inside the caves is enshrined a pantheon of Buddhist statuary. A day tour costs $5 per person in a boat shared by many tourists (more for a private charter). Arrangements can be made at any hotel front desk at an inflated rate, or you can just go down along the Mekong and negotiate with boat drivers directly (these guys are sure to find you). The half-day trip often includes a visit to a weaving village or the Lao Whiskey village, where you’ll have a chance to try some really potent local brew. 25km (16 miles) from town on the Mekong. Admission 15,000 kip. Organized Tours Green Discovery This country-wide eco-tourism orientated outfit offers tours around Luang Prabang such as the 1-day “Luang Prabang Heritage Experience” plus a whole range of adventure tours over the whole of northern Laos involving trekking, kayaking, motorcycling, mountain biking, sightseeing, and combinations of all of the above. Unit 44/3, Sisavangvong Rd. & 071/212-093. Daily 7am–9:30pm. 281 LUANG PRABANG & NORTHERN LAOS 13 LUANG PRABANG
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Cambodia & Laos
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Cambodia & Laos by Daniel White 1st
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CONTENTS LIST OF MAPS vii 1 THE BES
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8 SOUTHERN CAMBODIA 152 1 Sihanoukv
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LIST OF MAPS The Best Small Towns,
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HOW TO CONTACT US In researching th
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The Best of Cambodia & Laos The cou
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the world’s most rewarding journe
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MYANMAR Muang Sing (BURMA) Luang Na
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7 BEST TEMPLES & WATS • Angkor Wa
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Cambodia in Depth If ever a country
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Phnom Penh (see p. 83 for more on t
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was Mahayana, not part of the Thera
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keep Cambodia neutral in the confli
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Rouge leaders will be prompted to s
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As Hun Sen darkly quipped years lat
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place largely without violence, Cam
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high-rise residential developments
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5 CAMBODIA IN POPULAR CULTURE RECOM
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Wherever you are, stick only to bot
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Planning Your Trip to Cambodia With
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Bonn Pchum Ben. During this period,
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3 GETTING THERE & GETTING AROUND GE
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spend the night in Poipet, but this
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can be cold due to excessive air-co
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Come Armed with Singles We recommen
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the malarial mosquitoes are at thei
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are riding on a motorcycle, keep yo
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cater to travelers with disabilitie
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General Resources for Green Travel
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INTERNET In Cambodia, where you fin
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0 0 50 km 50 mi N Phumi Samraong Pr
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2 THE BEST OF LAOS IN 1 WEEK Althou
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Pak Lai Gulf of Thailand Mekong Mek
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Sao Market to shop for special Lao
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Founded in the mid-14th century by
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The Tonle Sap: The Heart of a Natio
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2 WHERE TO STAY There is a huge cho
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Mao Zedong Blvd. onireth Blvd. (217
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No. 227 St. 19. & 023/222-280. www.
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Hotel Scandinavia This relaxed offe
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Inexpensive Capitol Guesthouse The
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Mao Zedong Blvd. onireth Blvd. (217
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Phnom Penh’s Much-Loved Pachyderm
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completely punitive. They also have
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Le Jardin Café WESTERN As its name
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ao Zedong Blvd. onireth Blvd. (217)
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The Khmer Rouge on Trial As this bo
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SWIMMING & FITNESS Many top hotels
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5 DAY TRIPS OUTSIDE PHNOM PENH OUDO
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(& 023/211-534) and carries a simil
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The excellent Sovanna Phum Art Asso
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The ruins of the ancient city of An
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1 Airport (8 km) Siem Reap Phnom Pe
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10% VAT. Budget travelers are also
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Vithei Charles de Gaulle, Khum Svay
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combo and sinks set in unique overs
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fan). The courtyard area is a pictu
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Mandalay Inn One of the first thing
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NIGHTLIFE Angkor What? 28 Dead Fish
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Shinta Mani INTERNATIONAL Shinta Ma
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Taj Mahal NORTHERN INDIAN It has be
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Some Guidelines When Visiting Angko
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0 1st Level Vishnu’s victory over
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To To To Banteay Banteay Banteay Sr
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The Magic Hours at Angkor Wat The s
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Enter the temple from the west, the
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Westerners until a French researche
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Body Tune Spa, in the very heart of
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Colors of Cambodia Here’s a fun o
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A Dance for the Divine The royal cl
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APSARA DANCE Having spent the day l
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Battambang & Northern Cambodia From
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0 0 0.25 km 2 DINING Bus Stop 10 Th
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either a car with a driver or a mot
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pleasant indeed with casual but sma
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its relaxed, open-air charm. The ty
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into a trip back on a small metal-a
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a mix of traditional Khmer ballads
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The Spiders of Skuon In the town of
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$10 but can be more during high sea
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all over by 10am. The Reclining Bud
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1 3 4 2 5 7 6 8 10 8 11 12 9 15 14
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Ochheuteal Beach to Victory Beach c
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Beach Road Hotel Covering both the
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Koh Rong Beach. & 016/214-211. www.
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Snakehouse INTERNATIONAL Here’s a
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Cooking Courses If you want to lear
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ACCOMMODATIONS Champa Koh Kong Gues
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can take a motorcycle or car into t
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New Bridge Kampot 1 2 Prek Kampong
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also a more straightforward house w
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and a turnoff to a small waterfall
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Information Post Office 3 2 Kep Bea
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WHERE TO DINE All the hotels and gu
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part in Lao culture; arguments are
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forces captured and sacked Xiang Do
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1950, an offshoot of pro-Vietminh I
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CCHINA H I N A MYANMAR Muang Sing (
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visited places such as Savannakhet,
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There have been some tensions along
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Water in restaurants is safe to dri
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LAOS CALENDAR OF EVENTS For an exha
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2 ENTRY REQUIREMENTS PASSPORTS A pa
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A simple river crossing connects Th
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will help your blood pressure to pl
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able to organize a car and driver f
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Although levels of HIV/AIDS are, at
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Prabang and Vientiane are geared mo
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monsoon forest, diverse wildlife po
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Telephone Dialing at a Glance • T
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also plenty of other shops and bout
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expensive. You will see them lined
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1/4 mile 0 L A O S L A O S 0 0.25 k
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MODERATE Asian Pavilion Hotel Forme
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Riverine Hotel This old colonial vi
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37-01 Nokeo Khoummane Rd. & 021/262
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1/4 mile 0 26 0 0.25 km Khoua Khoua
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favorites from home. They have subm
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Vientiane’s Street Fare The busy
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Page 247 and 248: Organized Tours Most hotels, guesth
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Page 251 and 252: has closed, going on until 2am in p
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Page 255 and 256: GETTING THERE Vang Vieng is a smoot
Page 257 and 258: 18 17 16 1 Bus Station Hospital Pos
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Page 263 and 264: The Amazing Mountain Journey to Lua
Page 265 and 266: 20 L A O S L A O S Luang Prabang Vi
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Page 277 and 278: L A O S L A O S Luang Prabang Vient
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Page 285 and 286: where a shrine of the royal spirit
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Page 289 and 290: during the reign of Sam Saen Thai.
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Page 295 and 296: SHOPPING The central area of Luang
Page 297 and 298: Banks & Currency Exchange The Bank
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Page 301 and 302: with Western-style toilets and hot
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Page 311 and 312: L A O S Vientiane Savannakhet 4 3 S
Page 313 and 314: Dinosaurs in Laos Quite strangely,
Page 315 and 316: ACCOMMODATIONS Hotel Riveria 1 Inth
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Page 321 and 322: DINING Delta Coffee Shop and Restau
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Page 325 and 326: More Choice Eats in Pakse There are
Page 327 and 328: WHERE TO STAY & DINE In Champasak,
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Page 331 and 332: Getting There Boats leave Ban Nakas
Page 333 and 334: Fast Facts 1 FAST FACTS: CAMBODIA A
Page 335 and 336: There is no Canadian Embassy in Lao
Page 337 and 338: Khmer & Lao Glossary 1 THE KHMER LA
Page 339 and 340: HOTEL English Khmer Do you have any
Page 341 and 342: English Lao Call a doctor Toh-ha ta
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GENERAL INDEX AARP, 43, 204 Accommo
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Food stores and markets, Vientiane,
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Pak Ou Caves, 280 Pakse, 307-314 Pa
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Tham Chang (near Vang Vieng), 250 T
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Pavillon Indochine (Siem Reap), 102
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The Red Piano (Siem Reap), 108 Red
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MYANMAR MMYANMAR Y A N M A R (BURMA
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