The Best of Cambodia & Laos

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WALKING TOUR: LUANG PRABANG LUANG PRABANG & NORTHERN LAOS
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4 Wats at Sisavangvong and
Sakkarine
In this area, drop into Wat Mai (before the
Royal Palace), Wat Nong, Wat Sene, and
Wat Khili. Each of these wats is an absolute
jewel.
TAKE A BREAK
Stop for lunch at any one of the
superb restaurants on both Sisavangvong
Road and Sakkarine Road
when the temples become tiring.
At the end of the peninsula is:
5 Wat Xieng Thong
This is the premier wat of Luang Prabang.
With its exquisite exterior, typically Lao
sweeping roof, and intricately carved
doors, it is a cultural highlight.
Exit Wat Xieng and walk up Kingkitsarath Road. Keep
Mount Phousi at your right, then turn into Phommathat
road and then Visunerath Road where you
will find:
6 Wat Visoun and Wat Aham
These two magnificent structures feature
beautiful statues and stupas (including
Wat Visoun’s “Watermelon Stupa”), and
viewing them is the perfect end to your
day of temple hopping.
When you get to Setthathilrath Road, turn right and
walk straight down to the Mekong, stopping at:
7 Dara Market
Enjoy a cup of coffee at the Chill Out
Café (p. 267) and do a little stall browsing
at the Dara Market.
Wander down to the boat pier and walk down the
steps to the riverbank itself. Here you have a great
view of the small mountain on the other side of the
Mekong, behind which the sun sinks dramatically, silhouetting
the working riverboats as they chug along
the waters or sit lethargically at their moorings.
Sights Outside the City
Other sights outside of town include Wat Phon Phao (Peacefulness Temple), a golden
stupa on a hilltop about 5km (3 miles) away, best viewed from afar—though the view
back to town from its height is worth the trek. From here, visit nearby Ban Phanom
Weaving Village, a now-commercialized weaving collective where you can find deals on
Lao Ikat patterns and hand-woven bags. Just past Ban Phanom and hidden in a jungle
riverside area (signs point the way down the embankment), find the Tomb of Henri
Mouhot, the 19th-century French explorer credited with the rediscovery of Cambodia’s
Angkor Wat. He died in Luang Prabang of malaria while hunting the source of the
Mekong. Day trips across the Mekong to small temples and villages are also popular and
can be arranged with boat drivers at quay-side.
Kuangsi Waterfall As famous now for its recent collapse as anything, Kuangsi
was a tower of champagne-glass limestone formations until the whole structure fell in on
itself in 2003. Locals say that tour operators became too greedy and neglected local
spirits, called Pi. The falls are still beautiful, but less so. The ride here, however, is quite
spectacular. You’ll have to travel by songthaeaw (covered pickup) for $5 per person if
shared, or by boat and tuk-tuk for the same fee.
Another option, Tad Se Waterfall, is 21km (13 miles) from town and good for swimming,
even if it’s less spectacular in height than Kuangsi. During the rainy season, the
falls are stunning. Hire a driver for about $5 or pay a bit extra for a ferryboat.
36km (20 miles) south of town. Admission 10,000 kip. Daily dawn–dusk.
Pak Ou Caves The longtail-boat ride on the Mekong is alone a worthy day trip.
This stretch of river is lovely—and from the base of the cave entrance, you get a view of