The Best of Cambodia & Laos

276
LUANG PRABANG LUANG PRABANG & NORTHERN LAOS
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At the time the city and region were under Siamese control. They tried to prevent Pavie
and his group from getting access to the king, Oun Kham. The abbot, however, a confidant
of the king, served as a courier for messages between the king and Pavie and invited
the Frenchman to stay at the monastery. French influence grew and by 1893 Siam was
forced to secede Laos to the protectorate of the French. Pavie was also allowed to examine
the extensive palm leaf manuscripts of the Wat Mai and used them to write the first history
of Lao in a European language.
The sim has a magnificent five-tiered roof. It also contains a superb relief, which actually
dates only as far back as the late 1960s. The cement reliefs were first covered with a
black lacquer and then gilded. This relief depicts scenes from the Ramayana and the
Vessantara-Jataka, the Buddha’s penultimate reincarnation, all taking place in countryside
that is reminiscent of the surrounds of Luang Prabang. During the 3-day festival of
Pimai in April Buddhists outnumber tourists, reinforcing just how important Wat Mai
is to the Lao.
Sisavangvong Rd. Admission 10,000 kip. Daily 8am–5pm.
Wat Manorom Wat Manorom Sattharam is situated just outside the remains of the old
city walls to the south. Most experts agree that it is built on the site of one of the earliest
Khmer Buddhist sites, although they disagree about the date it was founded. It might have
originated with Samsenthai (1373–1416), the son of King Fa Ngum in 1372 or 1375
(either before or after he ascended to the throne). Others suggest in 1491 or 1492, during
the reign of La Saen Thai. That it was important is sure since it housed the Phra Bang at
one point from 1502 until 1513, when it was moved to Wat Visoun. The sim was rebuilt
in 1818, but, like so much else, was destroyed by the Haw in 1887. The present sim, rebuilt
in 1972, is one of the tallest in Luang Prabang. In the grounds behind the sim are the
remains of an earlier wat—Xieng Kang. Although the sim is fairly modern and pales into
insignificance compared to others in Luang Prabang, it does play a significant role in the
community. One of its most important features is the great Buddha cast in the 1370s
Taking Refuge: Making Friends
at the Temple
There is little that’s spectacular on the sleepy peninsula of Luang Prabang.
Rather, time spent here is about soaking up the atmosphere and taking leisurely
walks along dusty roads lined with French colonial buildings. Another
great local activity is to stop in at a temple—any temple, really—and meet
with the monks or young novices. The monks are great sources of information
and insight into Laos culture, Buddhism, and the vagaries of human existence.
Language is a big part of their training, and they study Pali and Sanskrit as
well as English and French (and even Chinese and Japanese). Novices like to
practice their English or even get help with their homework. Women should
be careful not to touch or sit too close to monks and novices, but all are
welcome in the temple. Don’t give in to any pleas for sponsorship (unless you
want to); monks live through the generosity of the sangha, or monastic community,
and don’t need sponsors.