The Best of Cambodia & Laos

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LUANG PRABANG LUANG PRABANG & NORTHERN LAOS
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Tamnaklao—the Three Elephants Restaurant LAO This renovated colonial
in the temple district is generally considered to be one of the best places in Luang Prabang
to sample expertly prepared authentic Lao cuisine—odd since it is Australian
owned and run. For the best variety, try one of the Tamank’s three set menus. A sample
of two, offering a total of 10 dishes, could include pork casserole in coconut milk, lahp
pla (spicy fish salad), and pork stuffed in crispy bamboo shoots. The casseroles are more
like stew, with a sweet-and-sour taste that pairs wonderfully with a bowl of sticky rice. If
you want to extend your knowledge even further, they also run cooking classes daily
where you can learn about ingredients and cooking methods.
Sakkarine Rd. & 071/252-525. Main courses 20,000 kip–50,000 kip. No credit cards. Daily 8:30am–
10:30pm.
Villa Santi LAO/CONTINENTAL On the upper floor of the popular hotel’s
main building (p. 260), this atmospheric open-air perch has just the right angle on the
busy street below. Set with linen and silver, a candlelit table on the balcony is handsdown
the town’s most romantic spot. The food is local and traditional Lao, along with
some creative Asian-influenced Continental (on the whole, though, it’s a bit uninspired—stick
to Lao and Thai specials, and sample one of the fine curries). The daily set
menus are always a good choice. The desserts are scrumptious: Try bananas flambéed in
Cointreau, or fruit salad in rum. There are more casual offerings for lunch, including
burgers. Most evenings feature traditional music and dancing in the courtyard below.
In Villa Santi Hotel, Sakkarine St. & 071/212-267. Main courses $4–$8. V. Daily 6:30am–10:30pm.
Inexpensive
For good eats and the company of many fellow travelers, don’t miss what we’ve called
“restaurant row” (it’s hard to miss on any trip to Luang Prabang). It is the only place in
town alive past 9pm, though it quickly dies at 11pm. If restaurants are empty, it may close
earlier. This fun, affordable place is great for exploring—almost like a Khao San Road.
Café des Arts FRENCH/CONTINENTAL Pasta, hamburgers, crepes, filet de
boeuf, and tartines round out the very appetizing menu here. Breakfast brings omelets
galore. Open-air like all the others on “restaurant row,” Café des Arts has a better atmosphere
than most, with real tables and chairs (not plastic), linen tablecloths, and a gallery
of local artwork for sale.
Sisavangvong Rd. (on “restaurant row”). &/fax 071/252-162. Main courses 18,000 kip–75,000 kip. MC, V.
Daily 7:30am–11pm.
Nazim Restaurant INDIAN Just like the other Nazim outlets in Vientiane and
Vang Vieng, Nazim serves a fine complement of good curries and halal food. The dining
area is kind of grubby, but the food is great and Nazim is always packed. There’s another
location on “restaurant row,” Sisavangvong Road, at the town center (& 071/253-493).
78/4 Ban Visoun, Visounnarath Rd. & 071/252-263. www.nazim.laopdr.com. Main courses 12,000 kip–
28,000 kip. No credit cards. Daily 8:30am–11pm.
Park Houay Mixay LAO A popular lunch option for package tours, this looks
more like a traditional Lao restaurant than the places on “restaurant row.” Note the tin roof,
beat-up wood floors and tables, and numerous pets and kids running around—but you
come here for the food, not the ambience. The large portions of delicious and cheap Lao
and Thai dishes are not watered down for Western palates. If you’re here for lunch, make
sure the ubiquitous tour group has been served already, or else you’re in for a long wait.