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Lao-style crème brûlée, a custard <strong>of</strong> pumpkin and coconut that’s divine. Great c<strong>of</strong>fee,<br />
too. Note: 3 Nagas’ Lao restaurant sometimes closes during the low season, so call ahead.<br />
Sakkarine Rd. & 071/253-888. Fax 071/253-999. www.alilahotels.com. Main courses 100,000 kip. MC, V.<br />
Daily 10:30am–2pm and 5–10pm.<br />
Moderate<br />
Blue Lagoon Restaurant WESTERN/ASIAN If the classic cuisine <strong>of</strong> La Cave des<br />
Chateaux is not to your taste and you prefer a more modern approach, the nearby Blue<br />
Lagoon Café may just fit the bill. Here Nouvelle cuisine characterized by small but artfully<br />
presented portions is the order <strong>of</strong> the day. <strong>The</strong> restaurant itself is situated in a<br />
tropical garden with rattan chairs and candlelit dark-wood furniture. A surprisingly<br />
eclectic menu <strong>of</strong> Asian and European dishes come to you as a feast for the eyes before<br />
you start to chow down.. Both the simmering Indian curry and steak cordon bleu are<br />
reported to be exceptional, as is the wine list.<br />
Ban Choumkhong. & 071/253-698. Fax 071/260-265. www.blue-lagoon-cafe.com. Main courses<br />
100,000 kip. MC, V. Tues–Sun 10am–10pm.<br />
Chill Out Café LAO/INTERNATIONAL Situated on the far side <strong>of</strong> Dara<br />
Market from the Mekong, this elegant new eatery is as it describes itself, stylishly decorated<br />
in an airy retro style. It is open on all four sides allowing a touch <strong>of</strong> a breeze to cool<br />
you after a hard session <strong>of</strong> shopping among the market stalls. <strong>The</strong> staff is very friendly if<br />
a little diffident. <strong>The</strong> food is a delicious fusion <strong>of</strong> Asian and Western with the emphasis<br />
on light tasty snacks. Both the cheese and bacon panini and the cauliflower soup spiced<br />
with cumin come highly recommended. <strong>The</strong> house wines are good, the crisp Italian<br />
white being particularly delicious. <strong>The</strong> Chill Out Café also has very fast Wi-Fi (well, fast<br />
for <strong>Laos</strong>!) so you will <strong>of</strong>ten see people working away on their laptops.<br />
Dara Market. & 071/261-006. Fax 071/253-418. Main courses 45,000 kip. No credit cards. Daily 7am–8pm.<br />
Couleur Café and Restaurant LAO/FRENCH This unassuming but atmospheric<br />
down-alley bistro features affordable fine dining. Several local expats prefer the<br />
food here to that <strong>of</strong> L’Elephant (see above). <strong>The</strong> decor is elegantly sparse, with colonialsize<br />
high ceilings and walls adorned with the work <strong>of</strong> local artists. Though run by a young<br />
French expat, the bistro has Lao specialties such as steamed fish with coconut in banana<br />
leaf, or perhaps fried prawns in oyster sauce. Both are served with sticky rice, <strong>of</strong> course.<br />
Eggplant, mushrooms, and crispy green beans are combined in a tasty Casserole Luang<br />
Prabang. Order some Mekong seaweed for an interesting appetizer, and ask about the<br />
fine Lao whiskey and imported wines. It’s a quiet little getaway for next to nothing.<br />
48/5 Ban Vat Nong. & 071/254-694. Main courses 25,000 kip–150,000 kip. MC, V. Daily 11am–2:30pm<br />
and 4:30–10:30pm.<br />
Indochina Spirit LAO/THAI/WESTERN Housed in a restored 70-year-old<br />
wooden home, Indochina Spirit, as its name suggests, dishes up as much atmosphere as<br />
it does good grub. This gorgeous Lao home has been put to lovely use and now features<br />
traditional Lao music most evenings from 7:30 to 8pm (check the chalkboard in front to<br />
make sure). Indochina Spirit has done a great job with the simple local decor inside and<br />
charming garden dining outside. <strong>The</strong> menu is an ambitious list <strong>of</strong> Lao, Thai, and Western<br />
dishes. It’s a good place to have a drink, enjoy an affordable appetizer plate, and hear<br />
some good music before strolling the city at night.<br />
52 Ban Vat That, opposite the fountain across from Maison Souvannaphoum. & 071/252-372. Main<br />
courses $5–$10. MC, V. Daily 8am–10pm.<br />
267<br />
LUANG PRABANG & NORTHERN LAOS 13<br />
LUANG PRABANG