The Best of Cambodia & Laos

266
LUANG PRABANG LUANG PRABANG & NORTHERN LAOS
13
Expensive
The Apsara ASIAN/INTERNATIONAL This is often cited as the best restaurant in
town and there is a fair amount of legitimacy behind that claim. The menu is not large
but it is very well thought out and beautifully conceived at every level. For a starter the
cauliflower soup spiced with roast cumin is simply delicious in an understated way. For
something really Lao go for the Luang Prabang buffalo sausages. For a main course try
the braised river fish, or if you wish to try something completely left field abandon Asia
altogether and try the Moroccan tagine of young goat served with couscous. The wine
cellar is suitably impressive. The decor is muted but stylish with Lao silk offset by sparkling
white tablecloths with dark-wood folding doors open to the Mekong. Portions are
generous and staff is friendly. Apsara’s quiet ambience is a lovely getaway from the din of
Sisavangvong Road.
Kingkitsarath Rd. & 071/254-670. Fax 071/254-252. www.theapsara.com/laos-bar-restaurant.html.
Main courses $6–$12. MC, V. Daily 7am–10pm.
La Cave des Chateaux FRENCH Situated in the superbly atmospheric
Calao Inn, this equally atmospheric French restaurant completes the circle that firmly
transports you back to a feeling of uncontrived old Indochina. Many, many restaurants
work hard to create the atmosphere that at La Cave des Chateaux simply exists. The
slumberous but appropriate decor, combined with prompt but friendly service, all combine
to make this place unique. The food is provincial French with a hint of Lao and it
is very good indeed although all this reverie comes at a fairly stiff price. Breakfast is good
here as well whether it is accompanied by excellent Lao coffee or pastis as one is served
on the Côte d’Azur itself.
Khem Kong Rd. & 071/212-100. Fax 071/212-085. Main courses 110,000 kip. No credit cards. Daily
7:30am–2pm and 5–10:30pm.
L’Elephant Restaurant FRENCH This stylish bistro is where it’s at for fine dining
in Luang Prabang. Run by French expats, it has a laid-back, retro-chic atmosphere inside
a high-ceilinged colonial. There are daily and weekly specials, and just about everything
is good, especially the imported steaks. Tasty cheeses and wines are also imported, though
local stock is used whenever possible. Boar and venison specials are popular, for example.
The wine list could hold its own in a much larger city, and it’s unlikely that you’ll stump
the bartender. Daily set menus explore the best of what’s available in the kitchen. A range
of tasty dishes, from coq au vin to grilled buffalo to a vegetarian savory baked eggplant,
covers all the bases. The cavernous interior makes it quite popular with high-end tour
groups since they can all fit in comfortably. L’Elephant is very expensive for Laos, but
more than worth it. Be sure to make a reservation—it’s often fully booked.
Ban Vat Nong. & 071/252-482. www.elephant-restau.com. Main courses 140,000 kip. MC, V. Daily
noon–2:30pm and 6–10pm.
Les 3 Nagas LAO/INTERNATIONAL You can get real Lao cuisine done right at
this new open-air spot on the quiet end of “restaurant row.” Dining here is as sumptuous
an affair as a stay at the connected 3 Nagas boutique hotel (p. 259). Meals are based on
the culinary styles of the chef’s own hometown, presented on fine china by a meticulous
and capable waitstaff (you won’t find the bones and gristle of traditional Lao restaurants
here). Start your meal with betel-leaf soup before moving on to sautéed local mushrooms
(when in season), laap, and grilled delicacies, from chicken satay to whole chunks
of hearty river fish, lightly marinated in lemon grass and chilies. For dessert, go for the