The Best of Cambodia & Laos

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264 LUANG PRABANG LUANG PRABANG & NORTHERN LAOS 13 confirm your reservation more than once before arriving. If it’s full, look for its sister hotel, Villa Sokxai 2, on the other side of Mount Phousi. Sakalin Rd. (across from Wat Phon Heuang), Ban Kilee, Luang Prabang. &/fax 071/254-309. sokxaigh@ yahoo.com. 7 units. $35 double; $50 family suite. No credit cards. In room: A/C. Inexpensive Chittana Guesthouse This is a very good value budget option close to the center of town. The rooms are very basic and vary in size and quality so it’s best to look at a few before picking one. They have wooden floors and slightly grubby whitewashed walls. There is a pleasant all-wood veranda on which to lounge after temple hopping. The staff is very friendly and casual. Ban Vat Sene. & 071/212-552. 10 units. 80,000 kip fan double; 120,000 kip A/C double. No credit cards. Amenities: Internet. Khoun and Khone Guest House If you fancy being a little in the boonies, come to this family-run place set in a small farm 5km (3 miles) out of town. The family is delightful and speaks very good English. They serve meals and many of the ingredients they use are grown on the farm. Khone is a great cook and can rustle up either Lao or Western food depending on your preference. The surrounding garden is beautiful and relaxing and the owners are justifiably very proud of it. Khoun and Khone also run tours of the surrounding countryside and villages, about which they are very knowledgeable. The bungalows themselves are large and rustic with hot water and a small balcony. Ban Na Dad. & 020/770-7665. www.khounandkhone.hrorbit.com. 6 units. $25 double. No credit cards. Amenities: Restaurant. Khounsavanh Guest House This is in a small area with a concentration of budget accommodations to the north of Wat Phousi. This a very good budget option with airy, light rooms set around a courtyard. There are seating areas on the wraparound veranda. The rooms have high ceilings, but they could do with a coat of paint. They have both fan rooms and air-conditioned rooms. Ban Thongchaleun. & 071/212-297. 14 units. 100,000 kip fan double; 150,000 kip A/C double. No credit cards. In room: A/C (10 rooms). Somkhounmuong Guest House This rambling old French villa hosts a warren of corridors with a pleasant veranda at the entrance. The rooms are basic and quite small but do have A/C and are clean. It is a nice environment, given that it is offering very low-budget accommodations. 53 Tomkham Rd. & 071/254-662. 10 units. 80,000 kip. No credit cards. In room: A/C. WHERE TO DINE Luang Prabang has its own very distinctive style of cuisine and there are many places in Luang Prabang that can demonstrate just how rich that tradition is. Some are very expensive by Lao standards but are also incredibly good, often combining northern Lao tradition with that of France. New upmarket bistros, many run by foreign restaurateurs, have added to the culinary diversity of little Luang Prabang. There are also very modestly priced places (our favorites are along the Mekong itself), where you can sample the famous Luang Prabang sausage, the delicious fermented fish stew, and many other Lao culinary concoctions. Whatever your cuisine of choice, dining in this sleepy northern burg is a delight.
L A O S L A O S Luang Prabang Vientiane Vientiane Old Stadium Boats Boats to Vientiane M e k o n g R i v e r Mekong River Phothisarath Phothisarath Rd. Rd. 20 Rd. Rd. Khong Khong Khem Khem Sisavangvong Sisavangvong Rd. Rd. Samsenthai Samsenthai Rd. Rd. Phou Phou Vao Vao Rd. Rd. Phou Phou Vao Vao Rd. Rd. 0 0 0.5 km 19 Bunkhong Bunkhong Rd. Rd. Rd. Rd. Noradeth Noradeth Setthathilath Setthathilath Rd. Rd. 21 Dara Market The Apsara 4 Baguette stands 18 Blue Lagoon Restaurant 11 Café Des Arts 13 Chill Out Café 21 Couleur Café and Restaurant 7 Indochina Spirit 20 Joma 19 La Cave des Chateaux 1 Le Café Ban Wat Sene 6 L’Elephant Restaurant 10 Boats Boats to to Pak Pak Ou Ou 9 18 Where to Dine in Luang Prabang Khem Khem Khong Khong Rd. Rd. 17 10 11 Chao Chao Sisouphan Sisouphan Rd. Rd. Phamahapasan Phamahapasan Rd. Rd. 1/2 mi 7 8 14 16 Mount Phousi 12 13 15 Visunniath Visunniath Rd. Rd. Naviengkhan Naviengkhan Rd. Rd. Khem Khem Khong Khong Rd. Rd. Kounxoa Kounxoa Rd. 6 Nam Nam Khan Khan River River Phommathat Phommathat Rd. Rd. Kingkitsarath Kingkitsarath Rd. Rd. Sakkarine Sakkarine Rd. Rd. Chao Chao Gningthongsi Gningthongsi Rd. Rd. Old Bridge Chao Chao Xomphou Xomphou Rd. Rd. Vieng Mai Market Les 3 Nagas 3 L’etranger 15 Luang Prabang Bakery 16 Nazim Restaurant 12 Night Market 17 Scandinavian Bakery 14 The Tamarind Café 8 Tamnaklao-the Three Elephants Restaurant 5 Vieng Kheam Khong 9 Villa Santi 2 1 2 3 4 5 Sisattanak Sisattanak Rd. Rd. To Airport & Mekong Speedboat Landing New New Rd. Rd. Bank Information Post Office 265 LUANG PRABANG & NORTHERN LAOS 13 LUANG PRABANG
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Cambodia & Laos
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Cambodia & Laos by Daniel White 1st
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CONTENTS LIST OF MAPS vii 1 THE BES
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8 SOUTHERN CAMBODIA 152 1 Sihanoukv
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LIST OF MAPS The Best Small Towns,
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HOW TO CONTACT US In researching th
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The Best of Cambodia & Laos The cou
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the world’s most rewarding journe
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MYANMAR Muang Sing (BURMA) Luang Na
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7 BEST TEMPLES & WATS • Angkor Wa
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Cambodia in Depth If ever a country
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Phnom Penh (see p. 83 for more on t
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was Mahayana, not part of the Thera
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keep Cambodia neutral in the confli
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Rouge leaders will be prompted to s
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As Hun Sen darkly quipped years lat
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place largely without violence, Cam
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high-rise residential developments
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5 CAMBODIA IN POPULAR CULTURE RECOM
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Wherever you are, stick only to bot
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Planning Your Trip to Cambodia With
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Bonn Pchum Ben. During this period,
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3 GETTING THERE & GETTING AROUND GE
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spend the night in Poipet, but this
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can be cold due to excessive air-co
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Come Armed with Singles We recommen
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the malarial mosquitoes are at thei
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are riding on a motorcycle, keep yo
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cater to travelers with disabilitie
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General Resources for Green Travel
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INTERNET In Cambodia, where you fin
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0 0 50 km 50 mi N Phumi Samraong Pr
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2 THE BEST OF LAOS IN 1 WEEK Althou
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Pak Lai Gulf of Thailand Mekong Mek
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Sao Market to shop for special Lao
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Founded in the mid-14th century by
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The Tonle Sap: The Heart of a Natio
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2 WHERE TO STAY There is a huge cho
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Mao Zedong Blvd. onireth Blvd. (217
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No. 227 St. 19. & 023/222-280. www.
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Hotel Scandinavia This relaxed offe
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Inexpensive Capitol Guesthouse The
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Mao Zedong Blvd. onireth Blvd. (217
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Phnom Penh’s Much-Loved Pachyderm
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completely punitive. They also have
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Le Jardin Café WESTERN As its name
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ao Zedong Blvd. onireth Blvd. (217)
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The Khmer Rouge on Trial As this bo
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SWIMMING & FITNESS Many top hotels
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5 DAY TRIPS OUTSIDE PHNOM PENH OUDO
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(& 023/211-534) and carries a simil
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The excellent Sovanna Phum Art Asso
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The ruins of the ancient city of An
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1 Airport (8 km) Siem Reap Phnom Pe
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10% VAT. Budget travelers are also
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Vithei Charles de Gaulle, Khum Svay
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combo and sinks set in unique overs
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fan). The courtyard area is a pictu
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Mandalay Inn One of the first thing
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NIGHTLIFE Angkor What? 28 Dead Fish
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Shinta Mani INTERNATIONAL Shinta Ma
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Taj Mahal NORTHERN INDIAN It has be
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Some Guidelines When Visiting Angko
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0 1st Level Vishnu’s victory over
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To To To Banteay Banteay Banteay Sr
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The Magic Hours at Angkor Wat The s
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Enter the temple from the west, the
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Westerners until a French researche
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Body Tune Spa, in the very heart of
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Colors of Cambodia Here’s a fun o
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A Dance for the Divine The royal cl
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APSARA DANCE Having spent the day l
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Battambang & Northern Cambodia From
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0 0 0.25 km 2 DINING Bus Stop 10 Th
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either a car with a driver or a mot
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pleasant indeed with casual but sma
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its relaxed, open-air charm. The ty
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into a trip back on a small metal-a
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a mix of traditional Khmer ballads
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The Spiders of Skuon In the town of
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$10 but can be more during high sea
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all over by 10am. The Reclining Bud
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1 3 4 2 5 7 6 8 10 8 11 12 9 15 14
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Ochheuteal Beach to Victory Beach c
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Beach Road Hotel Covering both the
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Koh Rong Beach. & 016/214-211. www.
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Snakehouse INTERNATIONAL Here’s a
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Cooking Courses If you want to lear
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ACCOMMODATIONS Champa Koh Kong Gues
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can take a motorcycle or car into t
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New Bridge Kampot 1 2 Prek Kampong
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also a more straightforward house w
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and a turnoff to a small waterfall
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Information Post Office 3 2 Kep Bea
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WHERE TO DINE All the hotels and gu
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part in Lao culture; arguments are
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forces captured and sacked Xiang Do
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1950, an offshoot of pro-Vietminh I
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CCHINA H I N A MYANMAR Muang Sing (
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visited places such as Savannakhet,
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There have been some tensions along
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Water in restaurants is safe to dri
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LAOS CALENDAR OF EVENTS For an exha
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2 ENTRY REQUIREMENTS PASSPORTS A pa
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A simple river crossing connects Th
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will help your blood pressure to pl
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able to organize a car and driver f
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Although levels of HIV/AIDS are, at
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Prabang and Vientiane are geared mo
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monsoon forest, diverse wildlife po
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Telephone Dialing at a Glance • T
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also plenty of other shops and bout
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Page 235 and 236: 1/4 mile 0 26 0 0.25 km Khoua Khoua
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Page 239 and 240: Vientiane’s Street Fare The busy
Page 241 and 242: 35 1/4 mile 0 4 34 0 0.25 km Khoua
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Page 245 and 246: start start 11 Khoua Khoua Luang Lu
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Page 249 and 250: Dokkhoun Handicrafts Mainly special
Page 251 and 252: has closed, going on until 2am in p
Page 253 and 254: ead in cafes and bakeries. You will
Page 255 and 256: GETTING THERE Vang Vieng is a smoot
Page 257 and 258: 18 17 16 1 Bus Station Hospital Pos
Page 259 and 260: Vang Vieng Orchid This is an excell
Page 261 and 262: 20m (66 ft.) from the main junction
Page 263 and 264: The Amazing Mountain Journey to Lua
Page 265 and 266: 20 L A O S L A O S Luang Prabang Vi
Page 267 and 268: The Fate of the King Savang or Sisa
Page 269 and 270: Lao Speedboat Risks Alternatively y
Page 271 and 272: wood floors, and fashionable room d
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Page 279 and 280: Lao-style crème brûlée, a custar
Page 281 and 282: 75/76 Ban Xieng Mouane. & 071/212-2
Page 283 and 284: 0 0 0.25 km 27 Old Stadium Phou Pho
Page 285 and 286: where a shrine of the royal spirit
Page 287 and 288: Make Merit Picture Sunday Mass at a
Page 289 and 290: during the reign of Sam Saen Thai.
Page 291 and 292: Its name translates as “golden ci
Page 293 and 294: 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 Mount Phousi Wat Pua
Page 295 and 296: SHOPPING The central area of Luang
Page 297 and 298: Banks & Currency Exchange The Bank
Page 299 and 300: If you go by road it takes about 3
Page 301 and 302: with Western-style toilets and hot
Page 303 and 304: 6 PAKBENG If you are taking the slo
Page 305 and 306: next to the post office. The airpor
Page 307 and 308: containing an oxygen generator in c
Page 309 and 310: Central Laos is rarely at the top o
Page 311 and 312: L A O S Vientiane Savannakhet 4 3 S
Page 313 and 314: Dinosaurs in Laos Quite strangely,
Page 315 and 316: ACCOMMODATIONS Hotel Riveria 1 Inth
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Page 321 and 322: DINING Delta Coffee Shop and Restau
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WHERE TO STAY & DINE In Champasak,
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(snake) Kaliya, the god Indra ridin
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Getting There Boats leave Ban Nakas
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Fast Facts 1 FAST FACTS: CAMBODIA A
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There is no Canadian Embassy in Lao
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Khmer & Lao Glossary 1 THE KHMER LA
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HOTEL English Khmer Do you have any
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English Lao Call a doctor Toh-ha ta
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GENERAL INDEX AARP, 43, 204 Accommo
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Food stores and markets, Vientiane,
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Pak Ou Caves, 280 Pakse, 307-314 Pa
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Tham Chang (near Vang Vieng), 250 T
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Pavillon Indochine (Siem Reap), 102
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The Red Piano (Siem Reap), 108 Red
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MYANMAR MMYANMAR Y A N M A R (BURMA
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