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The Best of Cambodia & Laos

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264<br />

LUANG PRABANG LUANG PRABANG & NORTHERN LAOS<br />

13<br />

confirm your reservation more than once before arriving. If it’s full, look for its sister<br />

hotel, Villa Sokxai 2, on the other side <strong>of</strong> Mount Phousi.<br />

Sakalin Rd. (across from Wat Phon Heuang), Ban Kilee, Luang Prabang. &/fax 071/254-309. sokxaigh@<br />

yahoo.com. 7 units. $35 double; $50 family suite. No credit cards. In room: A/C.<br />

Inexpensive<br />

Chittana Guesthouse This is a very good value budget option close to the center <strong>of</strong><br />

town. <strong>The</strong> rooms are very basic and vary in size and quality so it’s best to look at a few<br />

before picking one. <strong>The</strong>y have wooden floors and slightly grubby whitewashed walls.<br />

<strong>The</strong>re is a pleasant all-wood veranda on which to lounge after temple hopping. <strong>The</strong> staff<br />

is very friendly and casual.<br />

Ban Vat Sene. & 071/212-552. 10 units. 80,000 kip fan double; 120,000 kip A/C double. No credit cards.<br />

Amenities: Internet.<br />

Khoun and Khone Guest House If you fancy being a little in the boonies, come<br />

to this family-run place set in a small farm 5km (3 miles) out <strong>of</strong> town. <strong>The</strong> family is<br />

delightful and speaks very good English. <strong>The</strong>y serve meals and many <strong>of</strong> the ingredients<br />

they use are grown on the farm. Khone is a great cook and can rustle up either Lao or<br />

Western food depending on your preference. <strong>The</strong> surrounding garden is beautiful and<br />

relaxing and the owners are justifiably very proud <strong>of</strong> it. Khoun and Khone also run tours<br />

<strong>of</strong> the surrounding countryside and villages, about which they are very knowledgeable.<br />

<strong>The</strong> bungalows themselves are large and rustic with hot water and a small balcony.<br />

Ban Na Dad. & 020/770-7665. www.khounandkhone.hrorbit.com. 6 units. $25 double. No credit cards.<br />

Amenities: Restaurant.<br />

Khounsavanh Guest House This is in a small area with a concentration <strong>of</strong> budget<br />

accommodations to the north <strong>of</strong> Wat Phousi. This a very good budget option with airy,<br />

light rooms set around a courtyard. <strong>The</strong>re are seating areas on the wraparound veranda.<br />

<strong>The</strong> rooms have high ceilings, but they could do with a coat <strong>of</strong> paint. <strong>The</strong>y have both<br />

fan rooms and air-conditioned rooms.<br />

Ban Thongchaleun. & 071/212-297. 14 units. 100,000 kip fan double; 150,000 kip A/C double. No credit<br />

cards. In room: A/C (10 rooms).<br />

Somkhounmuong Guest House This rambling old French villa hosts a warren <strong>of</strong><br />

corridors with a pleasant veranda at the entrance. <strong>The</strong> rooms are basic and quite small<br />

but do have A/C and are clean. It is a nice environment, given that it is <strong>of</strong>fering very<br />

low-budget accommodations.<br />

53 Tomkham Rd. & 071/254-662. 10 units. 80,000 kip. No credit cards. In room: A/C.<br />

WHERE TO DINE<br />

Luang Prabang has its own very distinctive style <strong>of</strong> cuisine and there are many places in<br />

Luang Prabang that can demonstrate just how rich that tradition is. Some are very expensive<br />

by Lao standards but are also incredibly good, <strong>of</strong>ten combining northern Lao tradition<br />

with that <strong>of</strong> France. New upmarket bistros, many run by foreign restaurateurs, have<br />

added to the culinary diversity <strong>of</strong> little Luang Prabang. <strong>The</strong>re are also very modestly<br />

priced places (our favorites are along the Mekong itself), where you can sample the<br />

famous Luang Prabang sausage, the delicious fermented fish stew, and many other Lao<br />

culinary concoctions. Whatever your cuisine <strong>of</strong> choice, dining in this sleepy northern<br />

burg is a delight.

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