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The Best of Cambodia & Laos

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262<br />

LUANG PRABANG LUANG PRABANG & NORTHERN LAOS<br />

13<br />

this manages not to be at all claustrophobic and the tone is lifted by the white linen<br />

furnishings. <strong>The</strong> upstairs rooms are carpeted while the downstairs rooms have polished<br />

wooden floors. All rooms are fronted by a wooden veranda. Downstairs there is a little<br />

bar where they can rustle you up a cocktail or two.<br />

Ban Watnong. & 071/260-283. Fax 071/260-284. www.laowoodenhouse.com. 6 units. $70 double. MC,<br />

V. Amenities: Bar; Internet. In room: A/C, TV, fridge.<br />

Le Calao This restored 1904 villa stands near the tip <strong>of</strong> Luang Prabang’s peninsula<br />

on the banks <strong>of</strong> the Mekong. Unique and picturesque, it has a location and style all<br />

its own. <strong>The</strong> second-floor rooms are a nice size, with high sloping ceilings, wood furniture,<br />

neat tile floors, and firm beds. Bathrooms have wood cabinetry but are otherwise<br />

rather spartan, with no tubs. <strong>The</strong> staff is, well . . . hey, where did the staff go? What sells<br />

these rooms and commands the seemingly high price tag is that each unit has a large<br />

private balcony facing the majestic Mekong. <strong>The</strong> casual ambience at the Calao comes at<br />

a premium, but the place is quite popular (be sure to book ahead). <strong>The</strong> newly renovated<br />

downstairs suite (formerly a kitchen and staff room) has two double beds and a private<br />

balcony, perfect for a family with kids. <strong>The</strong> restaurant at the front, also with great views<br />

<strong>of</strong> the river, La Cave des Chateaux, serves excellent provincial French food with a gourmet<br />

touch bought to you by staff whose spoken French is as elegant as the surroundings<br />

in which they speak it.<br />

Khem Kong Rd. & 071/212-100. Fax 071/212-085. 6 units. $80 double. MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant.<br />

In room: A/C.<br />

Lotus Villa Hotel This is a brand-new hotel that was constructed in exact<br />

imitation <strong>of</strong> the decaying French house it replaced. <strong>The</strong> approach is boutique but very<br />

understated with a creative approach to every detail. <strong>The</strong> tiled rooms are light, spacious,<br />

and airy, with large windows. <strong>The</strong>re are rooms in the main house and also in a block set<br />

in the rear among a jungly garden, with seating in the central area where breakfast is<br />

served. What makes this hotel special is its real commitment to minimizing environmental<br />

impact. <strong>The</strong> sewage system is a UNESCO-approved, multilevel natural filtration<br />

system, where nothing damaging is discharged into the environment or the river. Detergent<br />

use is minimized, and they use a nonchemical system for hotel cleaning and have<br />

reusable cloth shopping bags for daily shopping. Room soaps are made with essential oil<br />

extracts sourced in the region. <strong>The</strong>y recycle all plastic and aluminum cans (the only<br />

recycling initiative available at present), and organic waste is fed to livestock outside <strong>of</strong><br />

Luang Prabang. In addition, they provide education and mentoring for staff.<br />

3 Kounxoa Rd. & 071/255-050. www.lotusvillalaos.com. 15 units. $62 double; $124 suite. MC, V. Amenities:<br />

Restaurant, breakfast only; Internet. In room: A/C.<br />

Merry Lao-Swiss Hotel Near Mount Phousi overlooking the Nam Khan River<br />

this hotel has very airy rooms with check tiled floors and very high ceilings. It feels a bit<br />

like a European hotel in atmosphere. If you are not a fan <strong>of</strong> the dark wood, traditional<br />

Lao feel <strong>of</strong> so many <strong>of</strong> Luang Prabang’s midrange hotels, then the Merry Lao-Swiss provides<br />

a wholly different option with its own unique style.<br />

Kingkitsarath Rd. & 071/260-211. www.freewebs.com\merrylao_swiss. 20 units. $50 double; $60 twin<br />

deluxe; $80 VIP. MC, V. In room: A/C, TV, fridge, minibar.<br />

Riverside Guest House Advertising themselves with the curious phrase “<strong>The</strong> unforgotten<br />

touch <strong>of</strong> Luang Prabang,” the Riverside Guest House <strong>of</strong>fers all-wood rooms in a

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