The Best of Cambodia & Laos

lush rice paddies and picturesque hills, this little Eden has a tranquil stream that tiptoes
through the grounds, a placid pond, and an open garden area. The buildings seem at ease
with the surroundings, and from the open-air, high-ceilinged lobby to the two-story villas
scattered about, there’s a certain harmony to the place. Rooms are larger versions of
those at the downtown Villa Santi, with similar tile floors, dark rosewood trim, and local
decoration. The hotel has laid claim to the largest swimming pool in town and plans to
add tennis courts and a fitness center in the near future. The staff is kind and courteous,
and will ensure efficient transport to and from town (as with the other resorts, distance
is the biggest drawback here).
Santi Resort Rd., Ban Nadeuay, P.O. Box 681 (6km/33 ⁄4 miles from town, a 10-min. drive), Luang Prabang.
& 071/253-470. Fax 071/253-471. www.villasantihotel.com. 52 units. $110 deluxe double; $185 suite.
AE, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; room service. In room: A/C, TV w/in-house movies, fridge, hair
dryer, minibar.
Moderate
Ancient Luang Prabang This hotel closed down for 3 years for a top-to-bottom
makeover, and the final result is lovely. Lao textiles mix with contemporary comforts such
as flatscreen TVs in the rooms and new Mac computers for Internet access in the openspace
lobby. Twelve rooms named after Chinese zodiac animals are bachelor style, with
dark-wood floors and spacious tubs in most. Staff is friendly if a bit stiff on monetary
matters (one guest had to pay to charge his iPod using the lobby computer’s USB port,
and a complimentary day-old muffin was out of the question for me even though I left
before breakfast was served). It’s located right beside the night market, so grab a room
with a balcony on the top floor and watch the chaos unfurl below. If you’re aiming for a
bit more peace and quiet, book yourself into the Snake Room, which faces away from
the market and has a sleek stone tub in the corner.
Sisavangvong Rd. & 071/212-264. Fax 071/212-804. www.ancientluangprabang.com. 12 units. $65
double; $60 single. No credit cards. Amenities: Internet. In room: A/C, TV, fridge, minibar.
Ban Pack Luck Villa The Ban Pack Luck is decorated throughout in a frenzied boutique
style. If you like the silk, the knickknacks, the dark wood, and the flowery touches
that define this approach then you will like this hotel (if you don’t, you might find it a
bit cloying). The rooms are thoughtfully appointed although some of them, particularly
on the ground floor, are a little small. Guests we spoke to, however, were very happy with
their lot. The corner rooms on the second floor are by far the best since they have reasonably
sized balconies. The monks from Wat Nong next door may wake you up earlier than
you like with their atmospheric but quite loud early-morning prayers.
Ban Wat Nong. & 071/353-373. 6 units. $30 downstairs; $45 upstairs. No credit cards. Amenities: Internet.
In room: A/C, TV, fridge, minibar.
La Maison de Xanamkieng This very new hotel is different from many in the
midrange since it does not even attempt a retro feel. The design is actually quite minimal
and urban. Rooms are large and airy with wooden floors and silk furnishings. The foyer
area is massive with French windows on all sides, lots of comfy sofas, cushions, and a big
TV. It’s all very sociable. Staff is very friendly and capable.
Ban Vat Sene. & 071/255-123. Fax 071/255-789. 7 units. $65 double. MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant;
Internet. In room: A/C, TV, fridge minibar.
Lao Wooden House An elegantly restored wooden villa once owned by a member
of the royal family. Not surprisingly all the rooms are paneled in dark wood. Somehow
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