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Lao Speedboat Risks<br />
Alternatively you can take a Lao speedboat. <strong>The</strong>se are flat-bottom skiffs with an<br />
outsize outboard motor attached that propel you at alarming speed over both<br />
calm water and rapids, avoiding (with any luck) some <strong>of</strong> the needle-sharp rocks<br />
that occasionally break the surface. You have to wear a helmet on these trips,<br />
which is indicative <strong>of</strong> just how wise it is to get in one <strong>of</strong> these vessels in the first<br />
place. <strong>The</strong>y are best avoided because they are, quite simply, very dangerous<br />
indeed. Tickets can be bought at all travel agents and cost 400,000 kip to Huay<br />
Xai and 250,000 kip to Pakbeng only. Going from Luang Prabang speedboats<br />
leave from the pier at Ban Don, a 15-minute tuk-tuk ride from the center <strong>of</strong><br />
town. Going to Luang Prabang from Huay Xai they leave from a pier about 2km<br />
(1 1 ⁄4 miles) south <strong>of</strong> Immigration.<br />
discomfort, though you’ll have many tales to tell afterward. <strong>The</strong> chug upriver from Luang<br />
Prabang takes up to 3 days and is not recommended.<br />
If you want to spend considerably more money, but enjoy considerably more comfort,<br />
you can take a trip with Luang Say Cruises (50/4 Sakkarine Rd.; & 071/252-553; fax<br />
071/252-304; www.luangsay.com), which <strong>of</strong>fers a 2-day or 3-day luxury Mekong jaunt<br />
going in both directions. <strong>The</strong> 2-day cruise leaves Luang Prabang on Tuesdays, Wednesdays,<br />
and Saturdays in the high season and only Wednesdays and Saturdays in low season<br />
(May–Sept). <strong>The</strong>re is an overnight at the company’s own Luangsay Lodge just near Pakbeng.<br />
This package costs $243 to $394, depending on the season. <strong>The</strong> 3-day option<br />
departs every Monday, Tuesday, and Friday in the high season, and on Tuesdays and<br />
Fridays in low season. It follows the same route with an extra overnight stop at the<br />
Khamu Lodge near an ethnic Khamu village. It costs between $343 and $525. <strong>The</strong><br />
Luang Say Lodge and Kamu Lodge are both charming, rustic ecolodges on the banks <strong>of</strong><br />
the Mekong. Meals are included as is wine and c<strong>of</strong>fee. <strong>The</strong> boat has a fully equipped bar,<br />
but drinks apart from tea and c<strong>of</strong>fee are not included in the price.<br />
<strong>The</strong> Lao/German company Mekong Sun Cruise (2/2 Sakkarine Rd.; & 071/254-<br />
768; www.cruisemekong.com) also runs high-end river trips on all navigable stretches <strong>of</strong><br />
the Mekong and indeed the Nam Ou.<br />
Getting Around<br />
Luang Prabang is easy to cover on foot or bicycle. If you get tired, tuk-tuks and jumbos cost<br />
about 5,000 kip per trip (less with more people and some haggling). Note: Citing the many<br />
accidents in recent years, local <strong>of</strong>ficials have put the kibosh on motorbike rentals (which<br />
also ensures work for local transportation providers). Luang Prabang is a town for walking,<br />
really, but it is a shame that you can no longer go putt-putting out to the waterfalls.<br />
Vatthanaluck Vehicle Rental, around the corner from the Villa Santi (& 071/212-<br />
838), covers all the bases for rentals and is the best bet <strong>of</strong> the many competitors. Bicycles<br />
go for just $1 per day; a rented car with driver is $25. For sights outside the city, jumbos<br />
and tuk-tuks usually gather along Xieng Thong Road across from the popular cafes and<br />
restaurants; prices are negotiable.<br />
257<br />
LUANG PRABANG & NORTHERN LAOS 13<br />
LUANG PRABANG
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