The Best of Cambodia & Laos

13
Luang Prabang &
Northern Laos
Northern Laos is part of a chain of
wild and mountainous country stretching
from north Thailand and on to northern
Vietnam. Dramatic limestone scenery dissected
by rivers sometimes torrid and
sometimes tranquil provides the setting for
hill tribe settlements, enigmatic remnants
of past empires, and vast wild areas of
immense ecological worth.
Set among all of this stunning scenery is
the jewel of northern Laos and indeed
Southeast Asia as a whole—Luang Prabang.
Many a traveler’s tale in Luang Prabang
begins like this: “Well, I was only
1 LUANG PRABANG
supposed to stay here for a couple of days,
but . . .” The quiet street-side cafes,
ancient temples, and laid-back, friendly
locals give this town a tranquillity that has
sucked many unsuspecting visitors in for
weeks (or years) at a time. A visit here feels
like a vacation from your vacation.
The town is fed by rivers and a journey
up either the Mekong or the Nam Ou will
take you through a land of incredible
mountains, dense forests, and contorted
limestone outcrops alternating between
being clothed in mist, grilled by the sun,
and pounded by intense monsoon rains.
When talking of Luang Prabang it is hard not to employ superlatives, and pretty much
everyone who has spent time in the town does. It is a place where history, atmosphere,
and terrain combine to create something of astonishing beauty. Set in the northern
mountains where the Nam Khan tributary joins the Mekong, the surrounding hills are
rugged, jungle clad, and spectacular. The town itself is a magical mixture of some of
the most ancient and exquisite Buddhist temples in the region combined with the
sort of intimate French colonial architecture that often makes towns in Indochina so
atmospheric.
Start your day at dawn, when the temple drums break the early morning silence and
saffron-clad monks walk the misty streets to receive rice from the townspeople for their
daily meal. Buddhists believe that by giving rice in this life (“making merit”), they are
ensuring that they will not go hungry in their next life. Tourists can also participate in
this ancient tradition, but should understand that although it has become an attraction
of sorts, it is still a sacred ritual.
The rest of the day can be spent seeing the sights or relaxing and soaking in the atmosphere.
The town itself is the main attraction, though, and the timeworn streets will
undoubtedly reveal hidden gems and memorable encounters, whether it’s a store selling
the perfect antique or a temple housing monks anxious to practice their English. Add
into this mix of perfect architectural yin and yang the fact that the streets are not crowded
with traffic (buses and lorries are not allowed) so noise levels are low and stress levels even
lower. Even with all the development of facilities purely designed for tourism, the soul of