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13<br />
Luang Prabang &<br />
Northern <strong>Laos</strong><br />
Northern <strong>Laos</strong> is part <strong>of</strong> a chain <strong>of</strong><br />
wild and mountainous country stretching<br />
from north Thailand and on to northern<br />
Vietnam. Dramatic limestone scenery dissected<br />
by rivers sometimes torrid and<br />
sometimes tranquil provides the setting for<br />
hill tribe settlements, enigmatic remnants<br />
<strong>of</strong> past empires, and vast wild areas <strong>of</strong><br />
immense ecological worth.<br />
Set among all <strong>of</strong> this stunning scenery is<br />
the jewel <strong>of</strong> northern <strong>Laos</strong> and indeed<br />
Southeast Asia as a whole—Luang Prabang.<br />
Many a traveler’s tale in Luang Prabang<br />
begins like this: “Well, I was only<br />
1 LUANG PRABANG<br />
supposed to stay here for a couple <strong>of</strong> days,<br />
but . . .” <strong>The</strong> quiet street-side cafes,<br />
ancient temples, and laid-back, friendly<br />
locals give this town a tranquillity that has<br />
sucked many unsuspecting visitors in for<br />
weeks (or years) at a time. A visit here feels<br />
like a vacation from your vacation.<br />
<strong>The</strong> town is fed by rivers and a journey<br />
up either the Mekong or the Nam Ou will<br />
take you through a land <strong>of</strong> incredible<br />
mountains, dense forests, and contorted<br />
limestone outcrops alternating between<br />
being clothed in mist, grilled by the sun,<br />
and pounded by intense monsoon rains.<br />
When talking <strong>of</strong> Luang Prabang it is hard not to employ superlatives, and pretty much<br />
everyone who has spent time in the town does. It is a place where history, atmosphere,<br />
and terrain combine to create something <strong>of</strong> astonishing beauty. Set in the northern<br />
mountains where the Nam Khan tributary joins the Mekong, the surrounding hills are<br />
rugged, jungle clad, and spectacular. <strong>The</strong> town itself is a magical mixture <strong>of</strong> some <strong>of</strong><br />
the most ancient and exquisite Buddhist temples in the region combined with the<br />
sort <strong>of</strong> intimate French colonial architecture that <strong>of</strong>ten makes towns in Indochina so<br />
atmospheric.<br />
Start your day at dawn, when the temple drums break the early morning silence and<br />
saffron-clad monks walk the misty streets to receive rice from the townspeople for their<br />
daily meal. Buddhists believe that by giving rice in this life (“making merit”), they are<br />
ensuring that they will not go hungry in their next life. Tourists can also participate in<br />
this ancient tradition, but should understand that although it has become an attraction<br />
<strong>of</strong> sorts, it is still a sacred ritual.<br />
<strong>The</strong> rest <strong>of</strong> the day can be spent seeing the sights or relaxing and soaking in the atmosphere.<br />
<strong>The</strong> town itself is the main attraction, though, and the timeworn streets will<br />
undoubtedly reveal hidden gems and memorable encounters, whether it’s a store selling<br />
the perfect antique or a temple housing monks anxious to practice their English. Add<br />
into this mix <strong>of</strong> perfect architectural yin and yang the fact that the streets are not crowded<br />
with traffic (buses and lorries are not allowed) so noise levels are low and stress levels even<br />
lower. Even with all the development <strong>of</strong> facilities purely designed for tourism, the soul <strong>of</strong>