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The Best of Cambodia & Laos

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20m (66 ft.) from the main junction heading north. <strong>The</strong>re is an island in the river opposite<br />

the Vang Vieng Orchid Hotel where a whole slew <strong>of</strong> bars have appeared. <strong>The</strong>y are<br />

effectively giant shacks with overworked sound systems that do little for the natural<br />

evening serenity <strong>of</strong> Vang Vieng. <strong>The</strong> aptly named Bucket Bar and the longer-running<br />

Smile Bar seem the most popular but that can change week by week.<br />

5 ATTRACTIONS<br />

ROCK CLIMBING<br />

Between November and May, Green Discovery (p. 243) <strong>of</strong>fers rock climbing among the<br />

spectacular limestone karsts on the other side <strong>of</strong> the Nam Song. <strong>The</strong>y run a 1-day to<br />

3-day tuition course and you can rent all the specialized gear you need. <strong>The</strong> instructors<br />

are skilled and the fee includes all transport costs and lunch. More than 100 routes have<br />

been pegged by world-class climbers and along with Krabi in Thailand, Vang Vieng is<br />

very much on the Asia climbing circuit. Tham Non (Sleeping Cave) with over 20 identified<br />

climbs and the nearby Sleeping Wall are the most popular climbing locations. <strong>The</strong>re<br />

are more than 50 bolted routes in the area graded from 5b to 8c according to the French<br />

system <strong>of</strong> grading.<br />

CAVING, TREKKING & KAYAKING<br />

<strong>The</strong> ethereal limestone karsts that tower over Vang Vieng are riddled with caves. Those<br />

who enjoy cave exploring will find themselves in a paradise <strong>of</strong> sorts. Some caves are very<br />

big with stunning formations, and some are tiny, comfortably accessible only to the<br />

extremely thin. Many are really covered rivers and small lakes, and one can swim or kayak<br />

through. Many also have religious significance, so look for shrines and Buddha images.<br />

You can visit most <strong>of</strong> the caves, either by yourself or as part <strong>of</strong> an organized tour. Most<br />

guesthouses or tour operators can sell you a package that combines caving, trekking,<br />

kayaking, and tubing. <strong>The</strong>y will also take you to nearby ethnic villages. You can also buy<br />

a 2-day tour, which includes a visit to the Organic Farm and overnight camping. Meals<br />

are generally included.<br />

With the exception <strong>of</strong> trips organized by Green Discovery, all <strong>of</strong> the tours you go on<br />

will actually be part <strong>of</strong> a Vang Vieng cooperative arrangement run by the same people.<br />

Wherever you booked the tour, the same set <strong>of</strong> guides lead the same set <strong>of</strong> six trips. You<br />

can check with different guesthouses to make sure you get the cheapest price, but essentially<br />

they are all part <strong>of</strong> a cartel. A 1-day trip should cost about $12, a 2-day trip $350,<br />

and a half-day trip costs $8. <strong>The</strong> guides are not uniformly as good as one another and<br />

some <strong>of</strong> the equipment is old.<br />

Green Discovery (which we recommend, p. 243) runs a host <strong>of</strong> combination tours<br />

and can also put together a personalized package. <strong>The</strong>y are a bit more expensive than the<br />

cartel, but only by a few dollars. <strong>The</strong>ir guides are better trained, more skilled, and can<br />

speak better English. In the end the primary issue is safety.<br />

You can visit the caves on your own. Maps are sold in Vang Vieng. It is best to hire a<br />

bicycle or motorbike to cover the 3 to 10km (1 3 ⁄4–6 miles) to the sites, or hire a tuk-tuk,<br />

which will take you to the caves for 5,000 kip per person in a party <strong>of</strong> about six. Make<br />

sure the day fee is well established in advance. Some drivers have been known to raise the<br />

fee after the fact.<br />

249<br />

VANG VIENG & SURROUNDING AREA 12<br />

ATTRACTIONS

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