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The Best of Cambodia & Laos

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Vang Vieng Orchid This is an excellent riverside option. Balconies are very large in<br />

the riverside rooms, which shows some foresight on the part <strong>of</strong> the builders since the<br />

views are superb. <strong>The</strong> rooms are bright and well equipped. It can be a noisy in the evening<br />

though since there are a slew <strong>of</strong> backpacker bars on the opposite island blasting out<br />

techno pop.<br />

Riverside Rd. & 023/511-172. 19 units. 80,000 fan double; 120,000 kip A/C double. No credit cards.<br />

In room: A/C.<br />

Vang Vieng Resort Down a small road, right in the lee <strong>of</strong> the mountain just across<br />

the river about .5km (.3 mile) from town on the way to Tham Jang cave, the Vang Vieng<br />

Resort is very peaceful. Separate bungalows set in leafy grounds (frequented by a not very<br />

energetic crowd <strong>of</strong> chickens) make stay here very tranquil. <strong>The</strong> bungalows are a bit aged<br />

but perfectly acceptable if a little dark.<br />

Next to the bridge to Tham Jang Cave. & 023/511-050. 28 units. 80,000 kip fan double; 120,000 kip A/C<br />

double. No credit cards. In room: A/C, TV.<br />

Vilayvang Guest House This a good-value midrange option with rooms inside the<br />

main building and bungalows outside. <strong>The</strong> bungalows are very nice, if slightly dark, but<br />

a little far from the river compared to other operations on the same drag. This is reflected<br />

in the price, and we are only talking about a few feet. <strong>The</strong> staff and management are very<br />

relaxed and friendly.<br />

Riverside Rd., south <strong>of</strong> town. & 023/511-673. 25 units. $18 resort double. No credit cards. Amenities:<br />

Restaurant. In room: A/C, TV, fridge.<br />

Villa Aekhan This is a new and slightly peculiar hotel. <strong>The</strong> whole <strong>of</strong> the downstairs<br />

is a cavernous handicrafts and textiles shop. Upstairs are eight clean, spacious rooms,<br />

which are both airy and well appointed. Only two have river views since the building has<br />

been constructed perpendicular to the river. <strong>The</strong>y are the same price as all the other<br />

rooms, so are a bargain if you manage to get one. <strong>The</strong>re is a balcony at the front <strong>of</strong> the<br />

building.<br />

Riverside Rd. & 023/511-357. 8 units. 150,000 kip double. No credit cards. In room: A/C, TV.<br />

3 WHERE TO DINE<br />

Whereas Vientiane is memorable when it comes to dining and Luang Prabang can certainly<br />

hold its own, Vang Vieng is known for the fairly mundane quality <strong>of</strong> its restaurants.<br />

You don’t eat badly in Vang Vieng, it’s just that you don’t eat very well either. If<br />

you have been in Vientiane before enjoying the astonishing range and quality <strong>of</strong> food on<br />

<strong>of</strong>fer, be prepared to lower your standards a little when in Vang Vieng. In the center <strong>of</strong><br />

town most restaurants are attached to guesthouses and are <strong>of</strong> the cheap backpacker variety<br />

with menus that are all roughly similar. It is the usual mixture <strong>of</strong> Asian-light, pizza,<br />

and pancakes. <strong>The</strong> Xayoh right on the crossroads is a little more upmarket, but the food<br />

is nothing special, being rather dreary and insipid. It is a good place to escape the surreal<br />

tyranny <strong>of</strong> blasting TVs.<br />

Generally when in the center <strong>of</strong> the town do not order anything on the menu that is<br />

termed “happy” unless you actually want to get high. <strong>The</strong>y also put all kind <strong>of</strong> things in<br />

the milkshakes. Some <strong>of</strong> the restaurants here are really not a place to bring the children,<br />

247<br />

VANG VIENG & SURROUNDING AREA 12<br />

WHERE TO DINE

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