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The Best of Cambodia & Laos

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244<br />

VANG VIENG & SURROUNDING AREA<br />

12<br />

WHERE TO STAY<br />

Hospital A hospital is by the river heading south opposite the Ban Sabi Bungalows.<br />

Internet Access <strong>The</strong>re are Internet cafes everywhere catering largely to the<br />

hordes needing to use Skype. <strong>The</strong> best by far is Magnet Internet (Main Rd.,<br />

opposite the Nazim Restaurant; & 020/541-7894). <strong>The</strong>y have fast connections<br />

and work to maintain their machines and keep them virus free.<br />

Post Office A post <strong>of</strong>fice (& 023/511-434) is located next to the Old Market.<br />

2 WHERE TO STAY<br />

If you want to avoid the mayhem <strong>of</strong> Veng Vieng, we recommend that you stay away from<br />

the center <strong>of</strong> town and head south down the river past the hospital. This area is much<br />

quieter and you’ll find hotels, guesthouses, and restaurants where you can enjoy the<br />

amazing scenery in relative tranquillity.<br />

MODERATE<br />

Ban Sabai Bungalow This quiet collection <strong>of</strong> riverside bungalows, owned by the<br />

same folks who run the Xayoh Café and Green Discovery tours, provides a real lesson in<br />

the Lao language. Ban means “house,” sabai means “calm and relaxed,” and you’ll pick<br />

up words such as ngiep (“quiet”) and baw mi banha (“no problem”) if you stay long<br />

enough. Rooms are simple, rustic, but clean bungalows. One bungalow abuts the river,<br />

while the others form a quiet courtyard area. <strong>The</strong> riverside restaurant is tops.<br />

Ban Sysavang (along the river just south and west <strong>of</strong> the town center). & 023/511-088. 13 units. $28<br />

standard; $30 double; $34 deluxe. MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; bar. In room: A/C.<br />

Bungalow Thavansouk In this prime riverside spot, you’ll find a range <strong>of</strong> neatly<br />

fitted, affordable bungalows. Accommodations start at basic guesthouse standards and go<br />

all the way up to a unique riverside suite with—get this—a picture window next to the<br />

bathtub with views <strong>of</strong> the river. Rooms vary in age, quality, and mildew smell, so ask to<br />

have a peek before checking in. Lounge chairs on the lawn face the breathtaking wall <strong>of</strong><br />

karst peaks across the river. Riverside rooms here have better views than those at Ban<br />

Sabai Bungalow (see above). <strong>The</strong> attached Sunset restaurant and bar serves good local fare<br />

and is a happening spot at dusk.<br />

Ban Sysavang (along the Nam Song just south and west <strong>of</strong> the town center). & 023/511-096. Fax<br />

023/511-215. www.thavonsouk.com. 44 units. High season $25 garden view, $45 river view, $55–$75<br />

traditional Lao house; low season $20–$70. MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; concierge can arrange tours<br />

and all rentals. In room: A/C, TV, minibar (not available in garden-view rooms).<br />

<strong>The</strong> Elephant Crossing Hotel <strong>The</strong> Elephant Crossing, run by a Laotian/<br />

Australian couple, is your best option in Vang Vieng. <strong>The</strong> hotel boasts friendly staff,<br />

fantastic views <strong>of</strong> the karsts, and spotless mildew-scent-free rooms. Standard rooms are<br />

the popular option for their views from the top two floors <strong>of</strong> the hotel. <strong>The</strong> decision to<br />

place deluxe rooms on the lower floors was based on weight—they have cozy, if heavy,<br />

bathtubs with sliding doors so you can enjoy the view while having a soak. <strong>The</strong> garden<br />

fronting the hotel is very quiet and a great place if you have children and want to keep

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