The Best of Cambodia & Laos

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232 VIENTIANE 11 WALKING TOUR: VIENTIANE WALKING TOUR VIENTIANE START: Patuxai Monument FINISH: Mekong at the end of Kun Bulom Road TIME: 3 to 4 hours, not including eating or shopping stops. BEST TIMES: Morning or late afternoon (midday can be hot and dusty) Vientiane is a terrific walking city. This tour hits Vientiane’s highlights, which you can leisurely explore with stops for food and drink. Be sure to read the full listings for each stop, above. Begin your tour with a climb to the top of: 1 Patuxai Monument This structure resembles Paris’ Arc de Triumph, with distinctive Lao features. Dedicated to those who fought for independence from France (patuxai means victory in Lao), the monument offers panoramic views of the city. Then stroll down Lane Xang Avenue heading south toward the Mekong staying on the left side of the road. You will soon arrive at: 2 Talat Sao (the Morning Market) Located at the eastern corner of Lane Xang Avenue and Khu Vieng Road, Talat Sao consists of many small shops, restaurants, and fruit and vegetable stalls. You can browse through jewelry, silk and clothing, wooden crafts, musical instruments, electronics, appliances, housewares, CDs and DVDs/VCDs, and groceries if you wish. There is also the Ethnic Handicrafts Market next door packed with colorful clothing and heavy ethnic jewelry. Cross over Lane Xiang Avenue and walk northwest up Bartholomie Road. This will bring you to: 3 That Dam The “Black Stupa” is set in a quiet traffic circle with next to no traffic. This is one of the oldest monuments in the city—though it’s never been dated, it’s estimated to have been constructed in the 15th century. Walk south down Chant Khammouane Road and turn right. Walk a few minutes up to the Nam Ou Fountain. TAKE A BREAK Nam Ou Fountain is a pleasant place to relax and enjoy a snack. If the weather is not too hot, sit at an outside terrace. Walk back up Setthathirath Road. On your right, you will see the: 4 Presidential Palace The Beaux Arts–styled Presidential Palace was originally built for the French governors, and later housed the monarchy during their reign after Laos gained its independence. It is closed to the public. Opposite the Presidential Palace is: 5 Wat Si Saket This wat is renowned for its jataka murals (scenes depicting the lives of Buddha before his final incarnation) and the many Buddha images set in niches in the cloister. Just a little farther up on the other side of the road is: 6 Haw Pha Kaeo This temple was rebuilt in 1942 after the original was destroyed in the Sino-Laos war, and houses a fascinating collection of religious art. Now head south on Mahasot Road, until you reach the riverfront and Fa Ngum. Stroll along the banks of the Mekong, stopping where you will for a tipple of your choosing until you reach Nokeo Khumman Road. This will take you to: 7 Temples Along Setthathirath As you turn left at Setthathirath Road, you’ll find a cluster of temples, including
start start 11 Khoua Khoua Luang Luang Rd. Rd. NONG NONG DOUANG DOUANG Sihom Sihom Road Road Rd. Rd. Thai Thai Sen Sam Sam Rd. Rd. Nongdouang Nongdouang Lane Lane Xang Xang Ave. Ave. Saylom Saylom Road Road Khoun Khoun Boulom Boulom Rd. Rd. Khun Khun Bulom Bulom Rd. Rd. Sam Sam Sen Sen Thai Thai Rd. Rd. Chao Chao Anou Anou Rd. Rd. Sihom Sihom Rd. Rd. Pang Pang Kham Kham Rd. Rd. National Stadium Lao Lao National National Museum Museum Luang Luang Prabang Prabang Rd. Rd. Dong Dong Palan Palan St. St. Phai Phai Nam Nam Rd. Rd. Mahosot Mahosot Rd. Rd. Phagna Phagna Rd. Rd. Talat Sao Sao Rd. Rd. Setthathirath Setthathirath Rd. Rd. 77 12 3 Bartolini Bartolini Rd. Rd. LAOCHALEUM LAOCHALEUM Fa Fa Ngum Ngum Rd. Rd. Talat Sao (Morning Market) Khou Viang Viang Rd. Rd. U.S. Embassy Chanta Chanta Khoumane Khoumane Rd. Rd. Nam Phou Fountain Manthatuulat Rdd. Manthatulat Rd. Nokeo Nokeo Khumman Khumman Rd. Rd. finish finish LANE LANE XANG XANG Fa Fa Ngum Ngum Rd. Rd. 55 Mekong Bus Station 44 Walking Tour: Vientiane Information Rd. Rd. Thai Thai Sen Sen Sam Sam Presidential Palace Post Office Mission Mission Rd. Rd. 66 Setthathirath Setthathirath Rd. Rd. Fa Fa Ngum Rd. Rd. Mekong L A O S L A O S Vientiane Vientiane Fa Fa Ngum Ngum Rd. Rd. 1/4 mile 0 0 0.25 km Patuxai Monument Talat Sao That Dam Presidential Palace Wat Si Saket Haw Pha Kaeo Temples along Setthathirat 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 233 VIENTIANE 11 WALKING TOUR: VIENTIANE
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Cambodia & Laos
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Cambodia & Laos by Daniel White 1st
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CONTENTS LIST OF MAPS vii 1 THE BES
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8 SOUTHERN CAMBODIA 152 1 Sihanoukv
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LIST OF MAPS The Best Small Towns,
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HOW TO CONTACT US In researching th
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The Best of Cambodia & Laos The cou
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the world’s most rewarding journe
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MYANMAR Muang Sing (BURMA) Luang Na
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7 BEST TEMPLES & WATS • Angkor Wa
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Cambodia in Depth If ever a country
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Phnom Penh (see p. 83 for more on t
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was Mahayana, not part of the Thera
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keep Cambodia neutral in the confli
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Rouge leaders will be prompted to s
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As Hun Sen darkly quipped years lat
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place largely without violence, Cam
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high-rise residential developments
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5 CAMBODIA IN POPULAR CULTURE RECOM
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Wherever you are, stick only to bot
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Planning Your Trip to Cambodia With
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Bonn Pchum Ben. During this period,
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3 GETTING THERE & GETTING AROUND GE
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spend the night in Poipet, but this
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can be cold due to excessive air-co
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Come Armed with Singles We recommen
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the malarial mosquitoes are at thei
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are riding on a motorcycle, keep yo
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cater to travelers with disabilitie
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General Resources for Green Travel
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INTERNET In Cambodia, where you fin
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0 0 50 km 50 mi N Phumi Samraong Pr
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2 THE BEST OF LAOS IN 1 WEEK Althou
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Pak Lai Gulf of Thailand Mekong Mek
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Sao Market to shop for special Lao
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Founded in the mid-14th century by
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The Tonle Sap: The Heart of a Natio
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2 WHERE TO STAY There is a huge cho
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Mao Zedong Blvd. onireth Blvd. (217
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No. 227 St. 19. & 023/222-280. www.
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Hotel Scandinavia This relaxed offe
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Inexpensive Capitol Guesthouse The
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Mao Zedong Blvd. onireth Blvd. (217
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Phnom Penh’s Much-Loved Pachyderm
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completely punitive. They also have
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Le Jardin Café WESTERN As its name
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ao Zedong Blvd. onireth Blvd. (217)
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The Khmer Rouge on Trial As this bo
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SWIMMING & FITNESS Many top hotels
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5 DAY TRIPS OUTSIDE PHNOM PENH OUDO
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(& 023/211-534) and carries a simil
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The excellent Sovanna Phum Art Asso
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The ruins of the ancient city of An
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1 Airport (8 km) Siem Reap Phnom Pe
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10% VAT. Budget travelers are also
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Vithei Charles de Gaulle, Khum Svay
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combo and sinks set in unique overs
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fan). The courtyard area is a pictu
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Mandalay Inn One of the first thing
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NIGHTLIFE Angkor What? 28 Dead Fish
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Shinta Mani INTERNATIONAL Shinta Ma
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Taj Mahal NORTHERN INDIAN It has be
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Some Guidelines When Visiting Angko
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0 1st Level Vishnu’s victory over
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To To To Banteay Banteay Banteay Sr
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The Magic Hours at Angkor Wat The s
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Enter the temple from the west, the
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Westerners until a French researche
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Body Tune Spa, in the very heart of
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Colors of Cambodia Here’s a fun o
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A Dance for the Divine The royal cl
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APSARA DANCE Having spent the day l
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Battambang & Northern Cambodia From
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0 0 0.25 km 2 DINING Bus Stop 10 Th
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either a car with a driver or a mot
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pleasant indeed with casual but sma
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its relaxed, open-air charm. The ty
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into a trip back on a small metal-a
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a mix of traditional Khmer ballads
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The Spiders of Skuon In the town of
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$10 but can be more during high sea
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all over by 10am. The Reclining Bud
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1 3 4 2 5 7 6 8 10 8 11 12 9 15 14
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Ochheuteal Beach to Victory Beach c
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Beach Road Hotel Covering both the
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Koh Rong Beach. & 016/214-211. www.
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Snakehouse INTERNATIONAL Here’s a
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Cooking Courses If you want to lear
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ACCOMMODATIONS Champa Koh Kong Gues
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can take a motorcycle or car into t
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New Bridge Kampot 1 2 Prek Kampong
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also a more straightforward house w
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and a turnoff to a small waterfall
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Information Post Office 3 2 Kep Bea
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WHERE TO DINE All the hotels and gu
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part in Lao culture; arguments are
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Page 223 and 224: also plenty of other shops and bout
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Page 235 and 236: 1/4 mile 0 26 0 0.25 km Khoua Khoua
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Page 239 and 240: Vientiane’s Street Fare The busy
Page 241 and 242: 35 1/4 mile 0 4 34 0 0.25 km Khoua
Page 243: Wat Ong Teu Mahawihan Wat Ong Teu i
Page 247 and 248: Organized Tours Most hotels, guesth
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Page 251 and 252: has closed, going on until 2am in p
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Page 255 and 256: GETTING THERE Vang Vieng is a smoot
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Page 277 and 278: L A O S L A O S Luang Prabang Vient
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Page 283 and 284: 0 0 0.25 km 27 Old Stadium Phou Pho
Page 285 and 286: where a shrine of the royal spirit
Page 287 and 288: Make Merit Picture Sunday Mass at a
Page 289 and 290: during the reign of Sam Saen Thai.
Page 291 and 292: Its name translates as “golden ci
Page 293 and 294: 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 Mount Phousi Wat Pua
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SHOPPING The central area of Luang
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Banks & Currency Exchange The Bank
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If you go by road it takes about 3
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with Western-style toilets and hot
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6 PAKBENG If you are taking the slo
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next to the post office. The airpor
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containing an oxygen generator in c
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Central Laos is rarely at the top o
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L A O S Vientiane Savannakhet 4 3 S
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Dinosaurs in Laos Quite strangely,
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ACCOMMODATIONS Hotel Riveria 1 Inth
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Souksomboun Hotel This hotel is sim
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Southern Laos Southern Laos is ofte
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DINING Delta Coffee Shop and Restau
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Champasak Palace Hotel This hotel w
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More Choice Eats in Pakse There are
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WHERE TO STAY & DINE In Champasak,
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(snake) Kaliya, the god Indra ridin
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Getting There Boats leave Ban Nakas
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Fast Facts 1 FAST FACTS: CAMBODIA A
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There is no Canadian Embassy in Lao
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Khmer & Lao Glossary 1 THE KHMER LA
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HOTEL English Khmer Do you have any
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English Lao Call a doctor Toh-ha ta
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GENERAL INDEX AARP, 43, 204 Accommo
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Food stores and markets, Vientiane,
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Pak Ou Caves, 280 Pakse, 307-314 Pa
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Tham Chang (near Vang Vieng), 250 T
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Pavillon Indochine (Siem Reap), 102
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The Red Piano (Siem Reap), 108 Red
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MYANMAR MMYANMAR Y A N M A R (BURMA
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