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230<br />
VIENTIANE<br />
11<br />
VIENTIANE ATTRACTIONS<br />
<strong>The</strong> Museum <strong>of</strong> the Revolution has photos, artifacts, and re-creations <strong>of</strong> the Lao struggle<br />
for independence against the French and Americans. <strong>The</strong> exhibits (firearms, chairs used<br />
by national heroes, and the like) are rather scanty, barely scratching the surface <strong>of</strong> such a<br />
complicated subject, but most are captioned in English. <strong>The</strong> museum features everything<br />
from dinosaur bones and sandstone sculptures <strong>of</strong> the Hindu god Shiva to machine guns<br />
and black-and-white photos <strong>of</strong> the Pathet Lao soldiers in action against the U.S.-backed<br />
regime. Archaeological finds and maps presented on the first floor help make a visit here<br />
worthwhile. <strong>The</strong>re are also numerous artifacts such as pots, drums, and tools as well as<br />
an ethnographic section. Additionally there are some exhibits on cultural and historical<br />
sites like the Plain <strong>of</strong> Jars and Wat Phou, which provide visitors with insights into the<br />
rich cultural heritage <strong>of</strong> <strong>Laos</strong>. <strong>The</strong> second floor is divided into a series <strong>of</strong> galleries, each<br />
displaying artifacts and pictures <strong>of</strong> periods dating from far as 1353, including the history<br />
<strong>of</strong> the Lao kingdom <strong>of</strong> Lan Xang up to 1707, the division <strong>of</strong> Lan Xang into three principalities,<br />
the rule <strong>of</strong> the Thais, the French colonial period, the first Indochina War, U.S.<br />
intervention, the successful liberation <strong>of</strong> the country in 1975, and finally the period <strong>of</strong><br />
national development since 1975. <strong>The</strong>re are a lot <strong>of</strong> interesting historical photos with captions<br />
making it absolutely clear who were the “colonialist” and “imperialist” aggressors.<br />
Samsenthai. Admission 10,000 kip. Daily 8am–noon and 1–4pm.<br />
Phra That Luang This is the preeminent stupa in <strong>Laos</strong>, a national symbol that’s<br />
an imposing 44m (144 ft.) high. It is not the original; the first, built in 1566 by King<br />
Setthathirat over the ruins <strong>of</strong> a 12th-century Khmer temple, was destroyed when the<br />
Siamese sacked Vientiane in 1828. It was rebuilt by the French in 1900, but the Lao<br />
people criticized it as not being true to the original. It was torn down in 1930 and remodeled<br />
to become what you see today. As you approach, the statue in front depicts Setthathirat.<br />
After you enter the first courtyard, look to the left to see a sacred bodhi tree, the<br />
same variety Buddha was sitting under when he achieved enlightenment. It has a tall,<br />
slim trunk, and the shape <strong>of</strong> its foliage is almost perfectly round. According to the Laotians,<br />
bodhi trees appear only in sacred places; legend has it that the site originally housed<br />
a stupa containing a piece <strong>of</strong> the Buddha’s breastbone. <strong>The</strong> stupa is built in stages. On<br />
the second level, there are 30 small stupas, representing the 30 Buddhist perfections, or<br />
stages to enlightenment. That Luang is the site <strong>of</strong> one <strong>of</strong> <strong>Laos</strong>’s most important temple<br />
festivals, which takes place in early November.<br />
Admission 3,000 kip. Tues–Sun 8am–noon and 1–4pm.<br />
Patuxai Monument This monument was completed in 1968 and dedicated to those<br />
who fought in the war <strong>of</strong> independence against the French. Ironically, the monument is<br />
an arch modeled on the Parisian Arc de Triomphe. Its detailing is typically Lao, however,<br />
with many kinnari figures—half woman, half bird. It’s an imposing sight, and you can<br />
climb up for a good city view. Once on top, numerous signs forbid the use <strong>of</strong> cameras<br />
(government paranoia, perhaps), but no one seems to take heed. This is the town’s main<br />
teenage strutting ground and is crowded on weekends.<br />
Lan Xang. Admission 5,000 kip. Mon–Fri 8am–4:30pm; Sat 8am–5pm.<br />
That Dam <strong>The</strong> That Dam is a large stupa at the center <strong>of</strong> a quiet roundabout at the end<br />
<strong>of</strong> Thanon Chanta Khumman. It is believed to be inhabited by a seven-headed dragon that<br />
tried to protect the Lao from the raging armies <strong>of</strong> Siam who invaded in 1827 (if so, it<br />
certainly failed the test). That Dam means “Black Stupa,” a name that is self-explanatory.<br />
Chanta Khoummane.