The Best of Cambodia & Laos

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228 VIENTIANE 11 VIENTIANE ATTRACTIONS ride here provides clear views of Thailand across the Mekong. To get there, take a bus from Talat Sao for 40¢ or hire a tuk-tuk for round-trip. Admission 5,000 kip. Camera fee 5,000 kip. Daily 8am–4:30pm. Haw Pha Kaeo Constructed in 1565, this temple was built to house the celebrated Emerald Buddha. This was later appropriated by Siam in 1779, and still resides in Wat Phra Kaew in Bangkok. According to legend, the Emerald Buddha was originally found when lightning struck a chedi at Wat Phra Kaew Don Tao in Chiang Rai province, Thailand, in 1434. Discovered inside the chedi was a statue covered in stucco. The stucco was removed to reveal the Emerald Buddha itself. It is actually made out of a form of jade. Later the statue was moved to Lampang where it remained until 1468 when it was moved again to Wat Chedi Luang in Chiang Mai. King Setthathirat bought it with him from Lanna to Luang Prabang (his mother was a princess of the Lanna Kingdom in what is now northern Thailand). He ordered the building of Haw Pha Kaeo when he moved his capital from Luang Prabang to Vientiane and bought the Emerald Buddha with him. Now Haw Pha Kaeo is a museum containing religious art. This, however, is not the original temple. That was destroyed by the Thais in the Siam-Laos war of 1828. This version was rebuilt by the French and completed in 1942. The original wat is unlikely to have very much resembled the present structure, which has a distinctly Thai feel to the architecture rather than the sweeping curves of Lao design. Despite that it still has an impact, largely because it is so large. The surrounding grounds are also very pleasant. It houses some exquisite artifacts including Buddha images dating back as far as the 6th century. Setthathirath. Admission 5,000 kip. Daily 8am–noon and 1–4pm. Kaysone Phomvihane Memorial This man was to Laos, in many ways, what Ho Chi Minh was to Vietnam or Fidel Casto is to Cuba. Born in 1920, his father was from Vietnam while his mother was Lao. Kaysone Phomvihane became involved with the Indochina freedom struggle while studying law at University in Hanoi during the 1940s. He left college before completing his studies to join the Pathet Lao. In 1955, he was influential in setting up the Lao People’s Revolutionary Party (LPRP) at Sam Nuea in northern Laos, and after that was effectively the Pathet Lao leader, although the “Red Prince,” Souphanouvong (p. 183) held the position officially. After the Pathet Lao victory, Phomvihane served as prime minister between 1975 and 1991 and president after that until his death in 1992. This museum was opened in 1996 and is made up of his house with a variety of artifacts and objects from his daily life and a museum (about 1km/ 1 ⁄2 mile away) built in monumental style with financial assistance from Vietnam. The exterior is designed in traditional Lao style but the interior layout is strongly reminiscent of that of the Ho Chi Minh Museum in Hanoi. There are two stories: the upper story comprises a central statue hall, surrounded by exhibition rooms with dioramas and displays that trace his life and career in the context of the Lao revolutionary history. Outside is a huge bronze statue of the man himself (looking rather self-effacing in a tightfitting suit) flanked by Soviet-style heroic statues depicting tough revolutionaries doing tough revolutionary things. Rte. 13 heading 6km (33 ⁄4 miles) south toward the Friendship Bridge. Admission 10,000 kip. Tues–Sun 8am–noon and 1–4pm. Lao National Museum This slightly haphazard museum is housed in an interesting old colonial structure built by the French as the office of the police commissioner.
35 1/4 mile 0 4 34 0 0.25 km Khoua Khoua Luang Luang Rd. Rd. NONG NONG DOUANG DOUANG Sihom Sihom Road Road Rd. Rd. Thai Thai Sen Sam Sam Rd. Rd. Nongdouang Nongdouang Lane Lane Xang Xang Ave. Ave. Saylom Saylom Road Road Khoun Khoun Boulom Boulom Rd. Rd. Chao Chao Anou Anou Rd. Rd. Khun Khun Bulom Bulom Rd. Rd. 1 National Stadium Vientiane Attractions, Shopping & Nightlife Bus Station Information Sihom Sihom Rd. Rd. Pang Pang Kham Kham Rd. Rd. Sam Sam Sen Sen Thai Thai Rd. Rd. 3 Luang Luang Prabang Prabang Rd. Rd. Post Office 13 Dong Dong Palan Palan St. St. Phai Phai Nam Nam Rd. Rd. Phagna Phagna Rd. Rd. Mahosot Mahosot Rd. Rd. Talat Sao Sao Rd. Rd. 11 9 10 14 12 8 15 16 Setthathirath Setthathirath Rd. Rd. 2 24 Khou Viang Viang Rd. Rd. Bartolini Bartolini Rd. Rd. 25 Chanta Chanta Khoumane Khoumane Rd. Rd. Manthatuulat Manthatulat Rd. Rd. Nokeo Nokeo Khumman Khumman Rd. Rd. 6 5 LAOCHALEUM LAOCHALEUM Talat Sao (Morning Market) 29 18 17 U.S. Embassy Nam Phou Fountain 19 28 20 21 7 22 23 Fa Fa Ngum Ngum Rd. Rd. L A O S L A O S 26 LANE LANE XANG XANG Rd. Rd. Thai Thai Sen Sen Sam Sam Presidential Palace Vientiane Vientiane Mekong Mekong Mission Mission Rd. Rd. 27 Setthathirath Setthathirath Rd. Rd. Fa Fa Ngum Rd. Rd. Fa Fa Ngum Ngum Rd. Rd. ATTRACTIONS Buddha Park 32 Haw Pha Kaeo 27 Lao National Museum 13 Phra That Luang 35 Patuxai Monument 34 That Dam 24 Wat Ong Teu Mahawihan 8 Wat Si Muang 31 Wat Si Saket 26 SHOPPING Café Books 11 Carterie du Laos 10 Monument Books 14 Vientiane Book Center 23 Talat Khua Ding 30 Phimpone Market 21 Phimpone Market 2 25 Talat Sao 29 Talat Thong Khan Kham 4 Handicraft Products of Ethnic Groups 28 Carol Cassidy 15 Couleur d’Asie 18 Dokkhoun Handicrafts 17 Indochina Old House Antique Café 16 Ladies Fingers 12 Les Artisans Lao 5 Tamarind 22 T-Shop Lai Galerie 6 30 31 32 33 NIGHTLIFE The Bor Phen Nyang 7 Future Nightclub 1 The Jazzy Brick 19 Lunar 36 33 Martini Lounge 20 On the Rock 1 The Samlo Pub 9 Spirit House 2 The Wind West 3 229 VIENTIANE 11 VIENTIANE ATTRACTIONS
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Cambodia & Laos
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Cambodia & Laos by Daniel White 1st
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CONTENTS LIST OF MAPS vii 1 THE BES
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8 SOUTHERN CAMBODIA 152 1 Sihanoukv
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LIST OF MAPS The Best Small Towns,
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HOW TO CONTACT US In researching th
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The Best of Cambodia & Laos The cou
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the world’s most rewarding journe
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MYANMAR Muang Sing (BURMA) Luang Na
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7 BEST TEMPLES & WATS • Angkor Wa
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Cambodia in Depth If ever a country
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Phnom Penh (see p. 83 for more on t
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was Mahayana, not part of the Thera
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keep Cambodia neutral in the confli
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Rouge leaders will be prompted to s
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As Hun Sen darkly quipped years lat
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place largely without violence, Cam
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high-rise residential developments
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5 CAMBODIA IN POPULAR CULTURE RECOM
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Wherever you are, stick only to bot
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Planning Your Trip to Cambodia With
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Bonn Pchum Ben. During this period,
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3 GETTING THERE & GETTING AROUND GE
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spend the night in Poipet, but this
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can be cold due to excessive air-co
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Come Armed with Singles We recommen
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the malarial mosquitoes are at thei
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are riding on a motorcycle, keep yo
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cater to travelers with disabilitie
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General Resources for Green Travel
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INTERNET In Cambodia, where you fin
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0 0 50 km 50 mi N Phumi Samraong Pr
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2 THE BEST OF LAOS IN 1 WEEK Althou
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Pak Lai Gulf of Thailand Mekong Mek
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Sao Market to shop for special Lao
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Founded in the mid-14th century by
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The Tonle Sap: The Heart of a Natio
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2 WHERE TO STAY There is a huge cho
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Mao Zedong Blvd. onireth Blvd. (217
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No. 227 St. 19. & 023/222-280. www.
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Hotel Scandinavia This relaxed offe
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Inexpensive Capitol Guesthouse The
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Mao Zedong Blvd. onireth Blvd. (217
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Phnom Penh’s Much-Loved Pachyderm
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completely punitive. They also have
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Le Jardin Café WESTERN As its name
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ao Zedong Blvd. onireth Blvd. (217)
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The Khmer Rouge on Trial As this bo
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SWIMMING & FITNESS Many top hotels
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5 DAY TRIPS OUTSIDE PHNOM PENH OUDO
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(& 023/211-534) and carries a simil
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The excellent Sovanna Phum Art Asso
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The ruins of the ancient city of An
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1 Airport (8 km) Siem Reap Phnom Pe
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10% VAT. Budget travelers are also
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Vithei Charles de Gaulle, Khum Svay
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combo and sinks set in unique overs
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fan). The courtyard area is a pictu
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Mandalay Inn One of the first thing
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NIGHTLIFE Angkor What? 28 Dead Fish
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Shinta Mani INTERNATIONAL Shinta Ma
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Taj Mahal NORTHERN INDIAN It has be
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Some Guidelines When Visiting Angko
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0 1st Level Vishnu’s victory over
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To To To Banteay Banteay Banteay Sr
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The Magic Hours at Angkor Wat The s
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Enter the temple from the west, the
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Westerners until a French researche
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Body Tune Spa, in the very heart of
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Colors of Cambodia Here’s a fun o
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A Dance for the Divine The royal cl
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APSARA DANCE Having spent the day l
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Battambang & Northern Cambodia From
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0 0 0.25 km 2 DINING Bus Stop 10 Th
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either a car with a driver or a mot
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pleasant indeed with casual but sma
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its relaxed, open-air charm. The ty
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into a trip back on a small metal-a
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a mix of traditional Khmer ballads
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The Spiders of Skuon In the town of
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$10 but can be more during high sea
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all over by 10am. The Reclining Bud
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1 3 4 2 5 7 6 8 10 8 11 12 9 15 14
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Ochheuteal Beach to Victory Beach c
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Beach Road Hotel Covering both the
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Koh Rong Beach. & 016/214-211. www.
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Snakehouse INTERNATIONAL Here’s a
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Cooking Courses If you want to lear
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ACCOMMODATIONS Champa Koh Kong Gues
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can take a motorcycle or car into t
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New Bridge Kampot 1 2 Prek Kampong
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also a more straightforward house w
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and a turnoff to a small waterfall
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Information Post Office 3 2 Kep Bea
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Page 199 and 200: visited places such as Savannakhet,
Page 201 and 202: There have been some tensions along
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Page 207 and 208: 2 ENTRY REQUIREMENTS PASSPORTS A pa
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Page 213 and 214: able to organize a car and driver f
Page 215 and 216: Although levels of HIV/AIDS are, at
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Page 221 and 222: Telephone Dialing at a Glance • T
Page 223 and 224: also plenty of other shops and bout
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Page 229 and 230: MODERATE Asian Pavilion Hotel Forme
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Page 247 and 248: Organized Tours Most hotels, guesth
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Page 253 and 254: ead in cafes and bakeries. You will
Page 255 and 256: GETTING THERE Vang Vieng is a smoot
Page 257 and 258: 18 17 16 1 Bus Station Hospital Pos
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Page 263 and 264: The Amazing Mountain Journey to Lua
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Page 277 and 278: L A O S L A O S Luang Prabang Vient
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Page 285 and 286: where a shrine of the royal spirit
Page 287 and 288: Make Merit Picture Sunday Mass at a
Page 289 and 290: during the reign of Sam Saen Thai.
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Its name translates as “golden ci
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1 2 3 4 5 6 7 Mount Phousi Wat Pua
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SHOPPING The central area of Luang
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Banks & Currency Exchange The Bank
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If you go by road it takes about 3
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with Western-style toilets and hot
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6 PAKBENG If you are taking the slo
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next to the post office. The airpor
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containing an oxygen generator in c
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Central Laos is rarely at the top o
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L A O S Vientiane Savannakhet 4 3 S
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Dinosaurs in Laos Quite strangely,
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ACCOMMODATIONS Hotel Riveria 1 Inth
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Souksomboun Hotel This hotel is sim
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Southern Laos Southern Laos is ofte
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DINING Delta Coffee Shop and Restau
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Champasak Palace Hotel This hotel w
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More Choice Eats in Pakse There are
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WHERE TO STAY & DINE In Champasak,
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(snake) Kaliya, the god Indra ridin
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Getting There Boats leave Ban Nakas
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Fast Facts 1 FAST FACTS: CAMBODIA A
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There is no Canadian Embassy in Lao
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Khmer & Lao Glossary 1 THE KHMER LA
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HOTEL English Khmer Do you have any
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English Lao Call a doctor Toh-ha ta
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GENERAL INDEX AARP, 43, 204 Accommo
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Food stores and markets, Vientiane,
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Pak Ou Caves, 280 Pakse, 307-314 Pa
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Tham Chang (near Vang Vieng), 250 T
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Pavillon Indochine (Siem Reap), 102
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The Red Piano (Siem Reap), 108 Red
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MYANMAR MMYANMAR Y A N M A R (BURMA
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