The Best of Cambodia & Laos

favorites from home. They have submenus within the main menu such as “the expatriates
relief” and the “backpacker’s experience” and have an extensive range of fried insect
dishes including crickets and larvae. Sit on one of the many balconies of this multitiered
building, pull up a chair in the courtyard or at the bar, get into some NGO shoptalk, or
share notes with English teachers and backpackers. Khop Chai Deu is abuzz late into the
evening, and the 90¢ draft beer flows freely.
54 Setthathirath Rd. & 021/251-564. www.khopchaideu.com. Main courses $2.50–$8. Daily 10am–
11pm.
Le Central FRENCH/CONTINENTAL This is an elegant yet casual addition
to the growing stable of French fine-dining options in Vientiane. Le Central scored a
coup by stealing one of the chefs from La Belle Epoque. His new twists on Asian favorites
(deep-fried spring roll filled with goat cheese and cashew nuts) and a nice selection of
French and Chilean wines complement the Continental main menu. The aforementioned
spring rolls are excellent; the braised lamb shank is melt-in-your-mouth tender.
However, the highlight of the meal will undoubtedly be the chef’s specialty: chocolate
volcano cake with custard and gingerbread ice cream. Outstanding. Even if you eat dinner
somewhere else, the freshly baked cakes and pies are worth a look for dessert.
077/8 Setthathirath Rd. & 021/243-703. Main courses $5.50–$28. MC, V. Daily 11:30am–2pm and
6:30–10pm.
Makphet LAO This restaurant serving gourmet Lao fare is also part of a project
providing career opportunities to impoverished street kids. Friends International (which
also operates in Phnom Penh) teaches them the skills of the restaurant trade in an attempt
to bring a sustainable improvement to their lives. That is actually not the main reason
you might want to eat here—the food is superb with traditional Lao dishes presented in
a very tasteful and relaxed environment in an old French villa. There is also a shop on-site
selling handicrafts. This is another part of the NGO operation bringing funds to otherwise
impoverished villagers.
Behind Wat Ong Teu. & 021/260-587. Main courses $3–$6. Daily 11am–9pm.
Mex Alexia TEX-MEX If you suddenly get the urge for something mildly Mexican
but actually far more American, this Tex-Mex riverside restaurant and bar has all the
standard offerings of burritos, enchiladas, and tacos that resemble similar places in London
or Budapest but would cause the locals in Cuernavaca or Tuxtla Guttierrez to start
scratching their heads. The Mex Alexia is in a great location but rather overpriced. What it
does do is provide a refreshing change from Lao, French, Italian, Thai, and Indian food if
these main Vientiane staples are making you weary. If not, the Mex Alexia also serves pizza.
Fa Ngum. & 021/241-349. Main courses 50,000 kip. Daily 9am–11pm.
Sticky Fingers WESTERN Started by Australians who came to Laos with the
UN and are involved in NGO work, Sticky Fingers serves soups, burgers, sandwiches,
and snacks in a relaxed atmosphere. It’s got the corner on the casual business lunch and
the after-work crowd. The menu includes plenty of light, healthy salads but also has a
section of comfort foods for those missing their fish and chips, ribs, or burgers. There is
a full range of cocktails including the signature “tom yam martini,” an inspired concoction
with chili and lemon grass. Be sure to choose from the impressive list of homemade
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WHERE TO DINE