The Best of Cambodia & Laos

224
VIENTIANE
11
WHERE TO DINE
The Cote d’Azur Pizzeria FRENCH The Cote d’Azur is misnamed. It
is not a pizzeria, although it does sell pizza. This is an extremely traditional provincial
French restaurant and the chef is quite obviously a genius. This is real top-range provincial
French cuisine at unbelievably modest prices. There is a very regular Gallic crowd
who obviously recognize this. Even by the extremely high standards of French restaurants
in Vientiane, the Cote d’Azur stands out. Neither the decor nor the atmosphere is particularly
inspired (in fact it’s a bit gloomy) and the owners are suitably indifferent and
shoulder-shrugging in a very French style. This is a place devoted to food and food alone.
Every dish we tried here, be it the goat cheese salad, the Mediterranean-style oysters
cooked with a delicious and light tomato and herb garnish, or the steak, was superb.
62/63 Fa Ngum. & 021/217-252. Main courses 50,000 kip–70,000 kip. MC, V. Mon–Sat 11am–2pm and
5:30–11pm. Closed Sun.
Douang Deune Restaurant ASIAN This is a tasteful and friendly little place
serving excellent Lao, Vietnamese, and Thai food. The ambience is muted with silk hangings
and there’s a homey atmosphere complemented by the exceptional choice of Western
classical music (some excellent renditions of Bach when we were dining). The French
host has created a place that is both friendly and relaxing and is rewarded by a loyal local
clientele who keep coming back.
Francois Nginn St. & 021/241-154. Main courses $2.50–$5. Daily 10:30am–11pm.
The Full Moon Café WESTERN/ASIAN Boasting Lao, Thai, Chinese, Vietnamese,
and Indian daily specials, this is the place to go if you’re not sure which Asian
country’s cuisine you want to sample. Other places stretch themselves thin through too
much variety, but the Full Moon covers all the culinary bases pretty well. The main menu
is a mix of tasty Western and Thai staples, while the tapas menu offers a few interesting
selections, most notably the “Water Buffalo Wings” and “Pig Between the Sheets.” Of
course, if I see “Pig Between the Sheets” on a menu, I’m going to order it. And of course,
this being Laos, it wasn’t quite what I expected (it was a little like French toast), but
it was good nonetheless. If you’re simply looking for a place to beat the heat, order a
frappe/cappu/mocha-cino, sink into one of the oversize cushions lining the dining area,
and relax.
Francois Nginn St. & 021/243-373. Main courses $3–$6.50. Daily 9am–11:30pm.
Hare and Hound WESTERN This is an English pub with the requisite English pub
grub, dartboard, and slightly heavy wooden atmosphere. It’s a good place for homesick
Brits serving pie and chips, fish and chips, or just chips.
9 Francois Nginn Rd. & 020/630-2616. Main courses 45,000 kip. Mon–Sat 11am–2pm and 5pm–midnight.
Closed Sun.
Khop Chai Deu Restaurant and Bar WESTERN/ASIAN The name means
“Thank you very much.” No matter how short your stay in Vientiane, you can’t miss this
place even if you want to. Just south and west of the Nam Phu Fountain and set in a large
colonial building, Khop Chai Deu is the crossroads for expats, backpackers, and tourists.
Folks come to get connected with the local scene as much as anything. The menu is
extensive, with some tasty barbecue and good Lao selections. Consider the Lao Discovery
set, which walks you through various short courses of typical Lao dishes. Asian standbys
are on the menu, as is Western fare including pizza, spaghetti, and other microwavable