The Best of Cambodia & Laos

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222 VIENTIANE 11 WHERE TO DINE Patuxai (on the west side of the Patuxai Monument circle). & 021/213-174. Main courses $4–$30. MC, V. Daily noon–1:30pm and 7–10:30pm. L’Opera ITALIAN For more than 10 years, L’Opera has been serving “real Italian” cuisine and garnering nothing but praise. It features homemade egg-noodle pasta, fine grilled and broiled entrees, daily specials, and fantastic desserts and espresso. There is also a large selection of pizza Lao, which is a surprisingly good combination of tomatoes, cheese, chilies, Lao sausage, and pineapple. The ambience is a rather formal Italy-meets- Lao, with linen tablecloths, brick walls, and wood-beam ceilings in a large, open setting. Lao staff in fine restaurants often act as if their foreign patrons are armed and dangerous, but here the service is confident and professional. Groups of four or more can try the Opera Menu of nine different special appetizers, pastas, and main courses for $25 per person. Nam Phu. & 021/215-099. Main courses $8–$16. AE, MC, V. Daily 11:30am–2pm and 6–10pm. Le Silapa FRENCH For cozy atmosphere and authentic French cuisine, this is a find in Vientiane (if you can find it). The effusive French proprietor will make you feel welcome. There’s a great wine list to go with tasty meals such as whitefish subtly garnished with capers, lemon, and parsley. The food is a lot more sophisticated than you might expect from such an unassuming storefront. This is a popular lunchtime venue on account of the good-value set menu. 17/1 Sihom Rd. & 021/219-689. Main courses $5–$12. MC, V. Mon–Sat 11am–2:30pm and 6–10pm. Closed Sun. MODERATE Amphone LAO This is one of my favorite restaurants in Vientiane: It’s affordable, sticks to classic Lao fare (there’s not a dinner knife in sight), and offers a decent wine selection. If you are a serious foodie and want to sample Lao food at its most artistic, this is where your quest might end. A major bonus is the menu’s proper explanations of Lao dishes—no guessing around with funny English translations. The outdoor courtyard is an elegant, inviting space with wooden floors, dim lighting, and jazz music piped through the speakers. Order a tasting menu for a quick introduction to Lao cuisine, or otherwise I recommend the Mak P—a savory whitefish steamed in a banana leaf—and sticky rice. You can’t go wrong. 34/1 Setthathirath Rd. & 021/212-489. Main courses 50,000 kip. Daily 11am–2pm and 5–10pm. Chokdee Café BELGIAN This is an intensely Belgian experience. From the Tin Tin and Asterix cartoons on the wall, to the fridge full of excellent beers brewed by Catholic monks, the Chokdee Café rarely lets you forget the glories of Belgian culture. The food is superb with a real feeling of home cooking. Best of all on Fridays they do a spectacular moules marinieres (mussels in white-wine sauce with Belgian fries, cooked the way only Belgians know how). This is a Belgian culinary flagship. Friday “Moules” nights at the Chokdee has become something of a weekly ritual for expats and the place is usually packed. You have to book your meal a day in advance because the energetic young Belgian owner goes all the way to Thailand to purchase the fresh ingredients to-order, list in hand. The one minor drawback of the Chokdee Café is that it is on the riverfront road and there is a real problem with incoming dust if you’re sitting on the outside terrace during the day. 19/3 Fa Ngum. & 021/263-847. Main courses 29,000 kip–50,000 kip. Tues–Sun 11am–10pm.
1/4 mile 0 26 0 0.25 km Khoua Khoua Luang Luang Rd. Rd. NONG NONG DOUANG DOUANG Sihom Sihom Road Road Rd. Rd. Thai Thai Sen Sam Sam Rd. Rd. Nongdouang Nongdouang Lane Lane Xang Xang Ave. Ave. Saylom Saylom Road Road 25 Khoun Khoun Boulom Boulom Rd. Rd. Chao Chao Anou Anou Rd. Rd. Khun Khun Bulom Bulom Rd. Rd. Sihom Sihom Rd. Rd. Pang Pang Kham Kham Rd. Rd. National Stadium Lao Lao National National Museum Museum 4 3 2 Sam Sam Sen Sen Thai Thai Rd. Rd. Luang Luang Prabang Prabang Rd. Rd. Dong Dong Palan Palan St. St. Phai Phai Nam Nam Rd. Rd. Phagna Phagna Rd. Rd. Mahosot Mahosot Rd. Rd. Talat Sao Sao Rd. Rd. Setthathirath Setthathirath Rd. Rd. Bartolini Bartolini Rd. Rd. LAOCHALEUM LAOCHALEUM Fa Fa Ngum Ngum Rd. Rd. Khou Viang Viang Rd. Rd. Chanta Chanta Khoumane Khoumane Rd. Rd. Nam Phou Fountain Talat Sao (Morning Market) U.S. Embassy Manthatuulat Manthatulat Rdd. Rd. Nokeo Nokeo Khumman Khumman Rd. Rd. 5 24 1 18 6 23 22 19 17 7 8 9 10 21 20 11 Fa Fa Ngum Ngum Rd. Rd. Where to Dine in Vientiane 16 L A O S L A O S LANE LANE XANG XANG 15 Rd. Rd. Thai Thai Sen Sen Sam Sam Presidential Palace 14 12 13 Vientiane Vientiane Mission Mission Rd. Rd. Setthathirath Setthathirath Rd. Rd. Fa Fa Ngum Rd. Rd. Mekong Bus Station Information Fa Fa Ngum Ngum Rd. Rd. Post Office L’Opera 23 Makphet 6 Mex Alexia 14 Mittaphap Restaurant 1 Nazim 11 Scandinavian Bakery 24 The Shade Restaurant 12 Sticky Fingers 10 Swedish Pizza and Baking House 4 Xayoh Café 18 Amphone 19 Ban Anou Night Market 3 Chokdee Café 15 Cote d’Azur Pizzeria 13 Dao-Fa 20 Douang Deung Restaurant 8 Full Moon Café 9 Hare and Hound 7 Joma Bakery Café 21 Just for Fun 16 Khop Chai Deu Restaurant and Bar 22 Le Banneton 17 La Belle Epoque 25 Le Central 5 Le Nadao 26 Le Silapa 2 223 VIENTIANE 11 WHERE TO DINE
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Cambodia & Laos
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Cambodia & Laos by Daniel White 1st
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CONTENTS LIST OF MAPS vii 1 THE BES
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8 SOUTHERN CAMBODIA 152 1 Sihanoukv
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LIST OF MAPS The Best Small Towns,
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HOW TO CONTACT US In researching th
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The Best of Cambodia & Laos The cou
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the world’s most rewarding journe
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MYANMAR Muang Sing (BURMA) Luang Na
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7 BEST TEMPLES & WATS • Angkor Wa
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Cambodia in Depth If ever a country
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Phnom Penh (see p. 83 for more on t
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was Mahayana, not part of the Thera
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keep Cambodia neutral in the confli
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Rouge leaders will be prompted to s
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As Hun Sen darkly quipped years lat
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place largely without violence, Cam
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high-rise residential developments
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5 CAMBODIA IN POPULAR CULTURE RECOM
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Wherever you are, stick only to bot
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Planning Your Trip to Cambodia With
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Bonn Pchum Ben. During this period,
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3 GETTING THERE & GETTING AROUND GE
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spend the night in Poipet, but this
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can be cold due to excessive air-co
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Come Armed with Singles We recommen
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the malarial mosquitoes are at thei
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are riding on a motorcycle, keep yo
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cater to travelers with disabilitie
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General Resources for Green Travel
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INTERNET In Cambodia, where you fin
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0 0 50 km 50 mi N Phumi Samraong Pr
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2 THE BEST OF LAOS IN 1 WEEK Althou
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Pak Lai Gulf of Thailand Mekong Mek
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Sao Market to shop for special Lao
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Founded in the mid-14th century by
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The Tonle Sap: The Heart of a Natio
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2 WHERE TO STAY There is a huge cho
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Mao Zedong Blvd. onireth Blvd. (217
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No. 227 St. 19. & 023/222-280. www.
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Hotel Scandinavia This relaxed offe
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Inexpensive Capitol Guesthouse The
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Mao Zedong Blvd. onireth Blvd. (217
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Phnom Penh’s Much-Loved Pachyderm
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completely punitive. They also have
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Le Jardin Café WESTERN As its name
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ao Zedong Blvd. onireth Blvd. (217)
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The Khmer Rouge on Trial As this bo
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SWIMMING & FITNESS Many top hotels
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5 DAY TRIPS OUTSIDE PHNOM PENH OUDO
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(& 023/211-534) and carries a simil
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The excellent Sovanna Phum Art Asso
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The ruins of the ancient city of An
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1 Airport (8 km) Siem Reap Phnom Pe
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10% VAT. Budget travelers are also
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Vithei Charles de Gaulle, Khum Svay
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combo and sinks set in unique overs
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fan). The courtyard area is a pictu
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Mandalay Inn One of the first thing
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NIGHTLIFE Angkor What? 28 Dead Fish
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Shinta Mani INTERNATIONAL Shinta Ma
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Taj Mahal NORTHERN INDIAN It has be
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Some Guidelines When Visiting Angko
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0 1st Level Vishnu’s victory over
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To To To Banteay Banteay Banteay Sr
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The Magic Hours at Angkor Wat The s
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Enter the temple from the west, the
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Westerners until a French researche
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Body Tune Spa, in the very heart of
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Colors of Cambodia Here’s a fun o
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A Dance for the Divine The royal cl
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APSARA DANCE Having spent the day l
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Battambang & Northern Cambodia From
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0 0 0.25 km 2 DINING Bus Stop 10 Th
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either a car with a driver or a mot
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pleasant indeed with casual but sma
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its relaxed, open-air charm. The ty
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into a trip back on a small metal-a
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a mix of traditional Khmer ballads
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The Spiders of Skuon In the town of
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$10 but can be more during high sea
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all over by 10am. The Reclining Bud
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1 3 4 2 5 7 6 8 10 8 11 12 9 15 14
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Ochheuteal Beach to Victory Beach c
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Beach Road Hotel Covering both the
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Koh Rong Beach. & 016/214-211. www.
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Snakehouse INTERNATIONAL Here’s a
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Cooking Courses If you want to lear
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ACCOMMODATIONS Champa Koh Kong Gues
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can take a motorcycle or car into t
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New Bridge Kampot 1 2 Prek Kampong
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Page 189 and 190: WHERE TO DINE All the hotels and gu
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Page 201 and 202: There have been some tensions along
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Page 215 and 216: Although levels of HIV/AIDS are, at
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Page 223 and 224: also plenty of other shops and bout
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Page 229 and 230: MODERATE Asian Pavilion Hotel Forme
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Page 253 and 254: ead in cafes and bakeries. You will
Page 255 and 256: GETTING THERE Vang Vieng is a smoot
Page 257 and 258: 18 17 16 1 Bus Station Hospital Pos
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where a shrine of the royal spirit
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Make Merit Picture Sunday Mass at a
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during the reign of Sam Saen Thai.
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Its name translates as “golden ci
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1 2 3 4 5 6 7 Mount Phousi Wat Pua
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SHOPPING The central area of Luang
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Banks & Currency Exchange The Bank
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If you go by road it takes about 3
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with Western-style toilets and hot
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6 PAKBENG If you are taking the slo
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next to the post office. The airpor
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containing an oxygen generator in c
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Central Laos is rarely at the top o
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L A O S Vientiane Savannakhet 4 3 S
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Dinosaurs in Laos Quite strangely,
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ACCOMMODATIONS Hotel Riveria 1 Inth
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Souksomboun Hotel This hotel is sim
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Southern Laos Southern Laos is ofte
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DINING Delta Coffee Shop and Restau
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Champasak Palace Hotel This hotel w
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More Choice Eats in Pakse There are
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WHERE TO STAY & DINE In Champasak,
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(snake) Kaliya, the god Indra ridin
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Getting There Boats leave Ban Nakas
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Fast Facts 1 FAST FACTS: CAMBODIA A
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There is no Canadian Embassy in Lao
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Khmer & Lao Glossary 1 THE KHMER LA
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HOTEL English Khmer Do you have any
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English Lao Call a doctor Toh-ha ta
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GENERAL INDEX AARP, 43, 204 Accommo
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Food stores and markets, Vientiane,
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Pak Ou Caves, 280 Pakse, 307-314 Pa
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Tham Chang (near Vang Vieng), 250 T
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Pavillon Indochine (Siem Reap), 102
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The Red Piano (Siem Reap), 108 Red
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MYANMAR MMYANMAR Y A N M A R (BURMA
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