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222<br />
VIENTIANE<br />
11<br />
WHERE TO DINE<br />
Patuxai (on the west side <strong>of</strong> the Patuxai Monument circle). & 021/213-174. Main courses $4–$30. MC,<br />
V. Daily noon–1:30pm and 7–10:30pm.<br />
L’Opera ITALIAN For more than 10 years, L’Opera has been serving “real Italian”<br />
cuisine and garnering nothing but praise. It features homemade egg-noodle pasta, fine<br />
grilled and broiled entrees, daily specials, and fantastic desserts and espresso. <strong>The</strong>re is also<br />
a large selection <strong>of</strong> pizza Lao, which is a surprisingly good combination <strong>of</strong> tomatoes,<br />
cheese, chilies, Lao sausage, and pineapple. <strong>The</strong> ambience is a rather formal Italy-meets-<br />
Lao, with linen tablecloths, brick walls, and wood-beam ceilings in a large, open setting.<br />
Lao staff in fine restaurants <strong>of</strong>ten act as if their foreign patrons are armed and dangerous,<br />
but here the service is confident and pr<strong>of</strong>essional. Groups <strong>of</strong> four or more can try the<br />
Opera Menu <strong>of</strong> nine different special appetizers, pastas, and main courses for $25 per<br />
person.<br />
Nam Phu. & 021/215-099. Main courses $8–$16. AE, MC, V. Daily 11:30am–2pm and 6–10pm.<br />
Le Silapa FRENCH For cozy atmosphere and authentic French cuisine, this is a find<br />
in Vientiane (if you can find it). <strong>The</strong> effusive French proprietor will make you feel welcome.<br />
<strong>The</strong>re’s a great wine list to go with tasty meals such as whitefish subtly garnished<br />
with capers, lemon, and parsley. <strong>The</strong> food is a lot more sophisticated than you might<br />
expect from such an unassuming storefront. This is a popular lunchtime venue on<br />
account <strong>of</strong> the good-value set menu.<br />
17/1 Sihom Rd. & 021/219-689. Main courses $5–$12. MC, V. Mon–Sat 11am–2:30pm and 6–10pm.<br />
Closed Sun.<br />
MODERATE<br />
Amphone LAO This is one <strong>of</strong> my favorite restaurants in Vientiane: It’s affordable,<br />
sticks to classic Lao fare (there’s not a dinner knife in sight), and <strong>of</strong>fers a decent wine<br />
selection. If you are a serious foodie and want to sample Lao food at its most artistic, this<br />
is where your quest might end. A major bonus is the menu’s proper explanations <strong>of</strong> Lao<br />
dishes—no guessing around with funny English translations. <strong>The</strong> outdoor courtyard is<br />
an elegant, inviting space with wooden floors, dim lighting, and jazz music piped<br />
through the speakers. Order a tasting menu for a quick introduction to Lao cuisine, or<br />
otherwise I recommend the Mak P—a savory whitefish steamed in a banana leaf—and<br />
sticky rice. You can’t go wrong.<br />
34/1 Setthathirath Rd. & 021/212-489. Main courses 50,000 kip. Daily 11am–2pm and 5–10pm.<br />
Chokdee Café BELGIAN This is an intensely Belgian experience.<br />
From the Tin Tin and Asterix cartoons on the wall, to the fridge full <strong>of</strong> excellent beers<br />
brewed by Catholic monks, the Chokdee Café rarely lets you forget the glories <strong>of</strong> Belgian<br />
culture. <strong>The</strong> food is superb with a real feeling <strong>of</strong> home cooking. <strong>Best</strong> <strong>of</strong> all on Fridays<br />
they do a spectacular moules marinieres (mussels in white-wine sauce with Belgian fries,<br />
cooked the way only Belgians know how). This is a Belgian culinary flagship. Friday<br />
“Moules” nights at the Chokdee has become something <strong>of</strong> a weekly ritual for expats and<br />
the place is usually packed. You have to book your meal a day in advance because the<br />
energetic young Belgian owner goes all the way to Thailand to purchase the fresh ingredients<br />
to-order, list in hand. <strong>The</strong> one minor drawback <strong>of</strong> the Chokdee Café is that it is<br />
on the riverfront road and there is a real problem with incoming dust if you’re sitting on<br />
the outside terrace during the day.<br />
19/3 Fa Ngum. & 021/263-847. Main courses 29,000 kip–50,000 kip. Tues–Sun 11am–10pm.