The Best of Cambodia & Laos

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VIENTIANE
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WHERE TO DINE
Patuxai (on the west side of the Patuxai Monument circle). & 021/213-174. Main courses $4–$30. MC,
V. Daily noon–1:30pm and 7–10:30pm.
L’Opera ITALIAN For more than 10 years, L’Opera has been serving “real Italian”
cuisine and garnering nothing but praise. It features homemade egg-noodle pasta, fine
grilled and broiled entrees, daily specials, and fantastic desserts and espresso. There is also
a large selection of pizza Lao, which is a surprisingly good combination of tomatoes,
cheese, chilies, Lao sausage, and pineapple. The ambience is a rather formal Italy-meets-
Lao, with linen tablecloths, brick walls, and wood-beam ceilings in a large, open setting.
Lao staff in fine restaurants often act as if their foreign patrons are armed and dangerous,
but here the service is confident and professional. Groups of four or more can try the
Opera Menu of nine different special appetizers, pastas, and main courses for $25 per
person.
Nam Phu. & 021/215-099. Main courses $8–$16. AE, MC, V. Daily 11:30am–2pm and 6–10pm.
Le Silapa FRENCH For cozy atmosphere and authentic French cuisine, this is a find
in Vientiane (if you can find it). The effusive French proprietor will make you feel welcome.
There’s a great wine list to go with tasty meals such as whitefish subtly garnished
with capers, lemon, and parsley. The food is a lot more sophisticated than you might
expect from such an unassuming storefront. This is a popular lunchtime venue on
account of the good-value set menu.
17/1 Sihom Rd. & 021/219-689. Main courses $5–$12. MC, V. Mon–Sat 11am–2:30pm and 6–10pm.
Closed Sun.
MODERATE
Amphone LAO This is one of my favorite restaurants in Vientiane: It’s affordable,
sticks to classic Lao fare (there’s not a dinner knife in sight), and offers a decent wine
selection. If you are a serious foodie and want to sample Lao food at its most artistic, this
is where your quest might end. A major bonus is the menu’s proper explanations of Lao
dishes—no guessing around with funny English translations. The outdoor courtyard is
an elegant, inviting space with wooden floors, dim lighting, and jazz music piped
through the speakers. Order a tasting menu for a quick introduction to Lao cuisine, or
otherwise I recommend the Mak P—a savory whitefish steamed in a banana leaf—and
sticky rice. You can’t go wrong.
34/1 Setthathirath Rd. & 021/212-489. Main courses 50,000 kip. Daily 11am–2pm and 5–10pm.
Chokdee Café BELGIAN This is an intensely Belgian experience.
From the Tin Tin and Asterix cartoons on the wall, to the fridge full of excellent beers
brewed by Catholic monks, the Chokdee Café rarely lets you forget the glories of Belgian
culture. The food is superb with a real feeling of home cooking. Best of all on Fridays
they do a spectacular moules marinieres (mussels in white-wine sauce with Belgian fries,
cooked the way only Belgians know how). This is a Belgian culinary flagship. Friday
“Moules” nights at the Chokdee has become something of a weekly ritual for expats and
the place is usually packed. You have to book your meal a day in advance because the
energetic young Belgian owner goes all the way to Thailand to purchase the fresh ingredients
to-order, list in hand. The one minor drawback of the Chokdee Café is that it is
on the riverfront road and there is a real problem with incoming dust if you’re sitting on
the outside terrace during the day.
19/3 Fa Ngum. & 021/263-847. Main courses 29,000 kip–50,000 kip. Tues–Sun 11am–10pm.