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37-01 Nokeo Khoummane Rd. & 021/262-112. 9 units. $12 double with fan; $16 double with A/C. No<br />
credit cards. In room: A/C, TV, fridge.<br />
Saysouly Guest House This is an excellent budget option in a good location.<br />
<strong>The</strong> guesthouse is in an atmospheric old building and the management has put some<br />
thought into creating a pleasant environment. <strong>The</strong> rooms are light and airy with high<br />
ceilings, modest but tasteful furnishings, and wooden floors. At the front is a shaded<br />
terrace from which you can watch the world go by at your leisure. <strong>The</strong>re is also a pleasant<br />
and well-kept garden at the back.<br />
23 Manththatultath Rd. & 021/218-383. Fax 021/223-757. www.saysouly.com. 28 units. $6 single with<br />
fan; $8 double with fan; $10 triple with fan; $9 single A/C; $13 double A/C. No credit cards. In room: A/C.<br />
3 WHERE TO DINE<br />
French is very big in the Lao capital, and good international restaurants <strong>of</strong> this ilk actually<br />
outnumber those serving Lao fare. You’ll find some great, affordable fine dining. A<br />
few local specialties to watch out for are khao poun, rice vermicelli with vegetables, meat,<br />
or chilies, in coconut milk; laap, minced meat, chicken, or fish tossed with fresh mint<br />
leaves; or a tasty Lao-style pâté. Try sticky rice, eaten with the hands, as an accompaniment<br />
to most Lao dishes (it’s a thrice-a-day staple for Laotians). Note: Restaurants are<br />
cash only unless specified.<br />
EXPENSIVE<br />
La Belle Epoque FRENCH/LAO In the atmospheric Settha Palace<br />
Hotel (p. 214), you can’t beat the atmosphere <strong>of</strong> La Belle Epoque—colonial elegance<br />
mixed with Vientiane’s laid-back charm. <strong>The</strong> service is efficient, and the menu covers a<br />
wide range <strong>of</strong> Continental specialties, with meat, game, and seafood prepared to order.<br />
Imported Australian steaks and salmon top a fine list <strong>of</strong> specialties, such as grilled lamb<br />
with ratatouille or terrine <strong>of</strong> duck liver marinated in wine. Try one <strong>of</strong> the creative appetizers,<br />
such as the goat-cheese pastry. Don’t pass up the crème brûlée. You would pay an arm<br />
and a leg for such a meal anywhere but here. <strong>The</strong> Sunday poolside buffet brunch (11am–<br />
2pm) is a steal at $18; price includes pool admission.<br />
6 Pangkham Rd. & 021/217-581. Main courses $15. AE, MC, V. Daily 9am–10pm.<br />
Le Nadao FRENCH Once a little-known eatery <strong>of</strong> just a few tables, where<br />
ordering a soufflé meant a long, languid wait, Le Nadao’s Lao-born and French-trained<br />
chef and owner, Mr. Sayavouth, is reaching a wider market at his larger location adjacent<br />
to the Patuxay Monument, Vientiane’s Arc de Triomphe. Le Nadao means “Stars in the<br />
Ricefield,” and indeed this little star now plays host to Vientiane’s best and brightest<br />
business folks and dignitaries. <strong>The</strong> dining room is a converted teak house, very rustic and<br />
soothing, with a corrugated metal ceiling showing through rough slats, warm indirect<br />
lighting, and live local music. <strong>The</strong> menu is classic French: no fusion, no foolin’. You<br />
might start with calamari pan-fried in cream Catalonian style, followed by roast partridge<br />
in a rich gravy with potatoes and a lightly fried Mekong filet with lemon, capers, and<br />
local organic brown rice. Dessert is chocolate mousse—so rich you’ll melt—or a unique<br />
“tulip” <strong>of</strong> pastry with local fruit and ice cream. Bring someone special and make a long<br />
evening <strong>of</strong> it.<br />
221<br />
VIENTIANE 11<br />
WHERE TO DINE