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The Best of Cambodia & Laos

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Riverine Hotel This old colonial villa right on the river has been converted as a<br />

boutique hotel, even having the requisite attached spa. In some ways in fact it seems a<br />

little overdone, having checked all the “boutique” boxes without actually thinking about<br />

what works. <strong>The</strong> foyer area does work well, since the retro style is complemented by high<br />

ceilings and tasteful fittings. You then walk through a small courtyard to the back <strong>of</strong> the<br />

hotel where you find the rooms in a separate annex, and this is where the lack <strong>of</strong> imagination<br />

starts to niggle. <strong>The</strong> rooms are small and dark, due to the architecture <strong>of</strong> the<br />

original villa. This would not be a problem if the designers had worked to maximize<br />

space—but they didn’t. Rather than cooling tiled floors and minimal furniture the rooms<br />

are all dark wood, traditional silks, and deep carpets with state-<strong>of</strong>-the-art flatscreen TVs.<br />

This can work well in some cases, but here it just creates a claustrophobic environment.<br />

<strong>The</strong> Riverine is still a pleasant and affordable place to stay, and the location is superb, but<br />

it could have been restored with far more thought to the building itself. <strong>The</strong> hotel <strong>of</strong>fers<br />

complimentary fruit.<br />

48 Fa Ngum Rd. & 021/214-643. Fax 021/216-633. 20 units. $25 single; $30 double; $45 VIP suite. MC,<br />

V. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; room service; Internet. In room: A/C, TV, fridge, minibar.<br />

Riverside Hotel This is a modern hotel very close to the river. All the rooms are airy,<br />

light, and well furnished, although we are not sure about the lime green color scheme.<br />

<strong>The</strong> rooms do vary and it’s worth asking to look at a few. <strong>The</strong> VIP rooms on the top<br />

floors are worth that little bit extra and they have just recently installed an elevator—a<br />

good idea since potential customers were probably put <strong>of</strong>f by the hike to the fourth and<br />

fifth floors.<br />

Nokeo Khoummane Rd. & 021/244-390. Fax 021/244-391. 32 units. 180,000 kip twin; 220,000 kip triple;<br />

220,000 kip VIP. MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; room service; Internet. In room: A/C, TV, fridge, minibar.<br />

Souphaphone Guesthouse Sparkling new with large, well-appointed<br />

rooms with plenty <strong>of</strong> space, high ceilings, and tasteful furnishings, this is an excellent<br />

midrange option. <strong>The</strong> staff is very relaxed, but also helpful and friendly. If you can get a<br />

room with a view <strong>of</strong> Wat Mixai that is an added bonus. <strong>The</strong> room style is retro-colonial<br />

but it is not overdone. Clean, dark-wood furniture is complemented by muted tones,<br />

wood floors, and the occasional silk hanging.<br />

145 Ban Watchan. & 021/261-468. Fax 021/262-094. http://souphaphone.net. 26 units. $28 double.<br />

In room: A/C, TV, fridge.<br />

Vayakorn Guest House “Guesthouse” is a misnomer for this place, which is centrally<br />

located and <strong>of</strong>fers nicer digs than many <strong>of</strong> the more expensive hotels in town. It is<br />

spanking new and one <strong>of</strong> the best deals in Vientiane. Clean, comfortable rooms come<br />

with wood floors, s<strong>of</strong>t beds, leafy balconies, and spotless shower-only bathrooms. Amenities,<br />

as well as views, are almost nonexistent, but you can’t complain at these prices. A<br />

deal like this is difficult to keep hush-hush and the word has been out for a while, so be<br />

sure to book ahead.<br />

91 Nokeo Khoummane Rd. & 021/241-911. Fax 021/241-910. 21 units. $27 double; $18 single. MC, V.<br />

Amenities: Restaurant. In room: A/C, TV, minibar.<br />

INEXPENSIVE<br />

Avalon Hotel This brand-new mini hotel is the best option in this price<br />

range. It’s about 2 blocks away from the main tourist drag, which is a good thing or a<br />

bad thing depending on your love/tolerance <strong>of</strong> loud music and chatty travelers. Double<br />

219<br />

VIENTIANE 11<br />

WHERE TO STAY

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