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The Best of Cambodia & Laos

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Phnom Penh (see p. 83 for more on the<br />

trials). It remains a controversial process,<br />

since many see it as too little too late and as<br />

a token and cosmetic attempt to address<br />

only the superficial issues, while ignoring<br />

the realities <strong>of</strong> ordinary people in living<br />

with the Khmer Rouge legacy in the country<br />

as a whole. Others see it entirely differently<br />

as a process providing genuine justice<br />

even if it is so many years on. <strong>The</strong> issues<br />

remain fraught with controversy to this day.<br />

EARLY YEARS<br />

<strong>The</strong> history <strong>of</strong> what is now <strong>Cambodia</strong> is<br />

largely about the roller-coaster sweep <strong>of</strong><br />

empire across the whole <strong>of</strong> the region<br />

including Thailand, <strong>Laos</strong>, and Vietnam.<br />

<strong>The</strong>y are all related.<br />

<strong>The</strong> earliest recognizable national entity<br />

in what is now <strong>Cambodia</strong> was the Indianized<br />

kingdom <strong>of</strong> Funan. This trading<br />

nation flourished from the 1st to the 6th<br />

century a.d. and probably existed between<br />

Prey Veng Province in <strong>Cambodia</strong> and<br />

Kien Giang Province in Vietnam. As most<br />

Khmers will tell you, they still regard<br />

southern Vietnam, or “Kampuchea<br />

Krom,” as rightfully <strong>Cambodia</strong>n and historically<br />

they have a pretty strong case.<br />

Although <strong>Cambodia</strong> was at the time a<br />

patchwork <strong>of</strong> small fiefdoms sometimes at<br />

peace and sometimes at war with one<br />

another, it was through its position as a<br />

major seaport that Funan imported the<br />

Indian religion and culture that would be<br />

so important in shaping the future <strong>of</strong> the<br />

region. At its height Funan and its related<br />

states stretched across Vietnam, <strong>Laos</strong>, and<br />

as far as the Malay Peninsula. <strong>The</strong> kingdom<br />

is said to have employed Indians in<br />

the administration <strong>of</strong> the state. Sanskrit<br />

was the court language, and the Funanese<br />

advocated initially Hindu and, after the<br />

5th century, Buddhist religious practice.<br />

Hindu deities Shiva and Vishnu were the<br />

2 LOOKING BACK<br />

<strong>Cambodia</strong> may be booming, vibrant,<br />

and heading toward the future in one way.<br />

It may remain vulnerable, troubled, and<br />

traumatized in another. It is always complicated.<br />

Sometimes it is infuriating, exhilarating,<br />

and occasionally horrifying. One<br />

thing that it never can be is boring.<br />

Whichever side <strong>of</strong> it you may wish to<br />

emphasize, <strong>Cambodia</strong> remains one <strong>of</strong> the<br />

world’s most compelling destinations.<br />

focus <strong>of</strong> worship and the Lingam (or<br />

Indian phallic totem and temple focus)<br />

seems to have played a central role in religious<br />

practice.<br />

By the 6th century, Funan was weakening<br />

as trade diminished due to historical<br />

shifts in faraway places. <strong>The</strong> population<br />

largely shifted from the coastal areas<br />

inland to the Mekong and Tonle Sap rivers,<br />

moving from oceangoing trade to wet<br />

rice production. Power shifted from the<br />

Kingdom <strong>of</strong> Funan to the more specifically<br />

Khmer rebel entity <strong>of</strong> Chenla. Chenla<br />

later divided into separate north and<br />

south, referred to by contemporary Chinese<br />

sources as “Chenla <strong>of</strong> the Land” and<br />

“Chenla <strong>of</strong> the Sea,” respectively. What is<br />

now Champasak in <strong>Laos</strong> was the center <strong>of</strong><br />

the north, while the lands around the<br />

Mekong Delta and the coast belonged to<br />

the south. By the 8th century, Chenla too<br />

was weakening as various vassal states<br />

broke away.<br />

THE RISE OF ANGKOR<br />

Jayavarman I was the first king <strong>of</strong> what<br />

historians consider to have been the<br />

Khmer empire. It emerged from the Kingdom<br />

<strong>of</strong> Kambuja, after which <strong>Cambodia</strong><br />

is named. He ruled from approximately<br />

657 to 681 but died without an heir. Over<br />

the course <strong>of</strong> his reign, he consolidated<br />

power over the lands around him. However,<br />

Jayavarman left no male heirs, which<br />

11<br />

CAMBODIA IN DEPTH 2<br />

LOOKING BACK

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