The Best of Cambodia & Laos

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214 VIENTIANE 11 WHERE TO STAY Lao Plaza This luxury hotel is about as central as you can get, which is its main advantage. It has everything you need but it is not very interesting. Every time we have visited, there seems to be some sort of Lao-Vietnam government conference going on involving huge numbers of serious-looking military types. Rooms are either beige or blue, with solid wood furniture, thick rugs, firm beds, and small marble-tile bathrooms with terry-cloth robes. The pool is big and inviting. The May Yuan restaurant has admirable Chinese food, while a cheery cafe has buffet meals and a deli/bakery. The rooms are huge, the fitness center is the best in town, and the staff is very friendly, but it simply can’t match either the Settha Palace or the Novotel for style. Maybe because they don’t want to—the Lao Plaza fulfills a function and is the main venue for conferences. 63 Samsenthai Rd., P.O. Box 6708, Vientiane. & 021/218-800. Fax 021/218-808. www.laoplazahotel.com. 142 units. $120–$140 superior single/twin; $150–$170 plaza single/twin; $230–$480 suite. AE, MC, V. Amenities: 3 restaurants; bar; popular nightclub; beer garden; bakery; conference rooms; gym; Jacuzzi; nice pool; sauna; travel agency; smoke-free rooms. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, Internet access (Plaza rooms free), minibar. Novotel Vientiane Just a short ride west of the town center, the Novotel Vientiane is a pleasant oasis from the dusty streets and downtown tuk-tuk clamor. The building itself is from the French era and very stylish. The foyer is cavernous with a sweeping staircase and decorated in a classic Art Deco theme, with stylish woodwork and a domed ceiling painted in a muted pastel yellow. Somehow one expects Humphrey Bogart to emerge from the dining room and say something cynical—it’s that kind of a place. Renovated executive rooms have fine wood furniture and marble bathrooms. They also come with perks such as free laundry, a minibar, and Internet access. Standard rooms are done in pastels with cane furnishings and plain tile bathrooms, and suites are enormous with high ceilings and plenty of light. All units feature hangings and artwork that keep your mind in Indochina. The fantastic pool area is leafy and atmospheric. Adjoining the lobby is a wellappointed Continental restaurant with indoor and outdoor by-the-pool seating. The staff is friendly and helpful, and the hotel offers a wealth of facilities and services, including use of its smart business center and chic executive lounge. It’s a bit far from town but has very convenient amenities and good transportation. The busy disco, Dtec, is always a happening spot. Along with the Settha Palace Hotel (below), this is one of the two best luxury options in town. Unit 9, Samsenthai Rd., P.O. Box 585, Vientiane. & 800/221-4542 or 021/213-570. Fax 021/213-572. www. novotel.com. 172 units. $90 standard; $110 superior; $180 executive; $450 executive suite. AE, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; 3 bars; babysitting; health club; nice outdoor pool; room service; sauna; steam bath; tennis; free and frequent transport to the town center. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, Internet, minibar. Settha Palace Hotel Once the distinguished address for visitors from the adjacent colonies of Indochina, this masterfully restored, early-20th-century French colonial mansion traced a long history of decline before its multimillion-dollar face-lift and 1999 reopening. As you walk up the leafy driveway you will be greeted by the site of a genuine London minicab, used to ferry guests to the airport. As you enter this rambling complex, you will then be greeted by friendly staff in a columned marble entry, where light coming through the large windows lends a softness to the lobby that is not unlike stepping into a sepia photograph of a distant time. Rooms are cozy, with antique details, dark-wood reproduction furnishings, and stalwart four-poster beds. If a stay at the Palace is a trip to the past, modern amenities such as in-room Internet access
1/4 mile 0 L A O S L A O S 0 0.25 km Khoua Khoua Luang Luang Rd. Rd. NONG NONG DOUANG DOUANG Sihom Sihom Road Road Rd. Rd. Thai Thai Sen Sam Sam Rd. Rd. Nongdouang Nongdouang Lane Lane Xang Xang Ave. Ave. Saylom Saylom Road Road Khoun Khoun Boulom Boulom Rd. Rd. Chao Chao Anou Anou Rd. Rd. Khun Khun Bulom Bulom Rd. Rd. 1 Vientiane Vientiane 25 Sihom Sihom Rd. Rd. Pang Pang Kham Kham Rd. Rd. National Stadium Lao Lao National National Museum Museum 9 24 Sam Sam Sen Sen Thai Thai Rd. Rd. Luang Luang Prabang Prabang Rd. Rd. Dong Dong Palan Palan St. St. Phai Phai Nam Nam Rd. Rd. 23 10 11 12 13 7 19 Phagna Phagna Rd. Rd. Mahosot Mahosot Rd. Rd. Talat Sao Sao Rd. Rd. Setthathirath Setthathirath Rd. Rd. Bartolini Bartolini Rd. Rd. LAOCHALEUM LAOCHALEUM Fa Fa Ngum Ngum Rd. Rd. Talat Sao (Morning Market) Khou Viang Viang Rd. Rd. U.S. Embassy Chanta Chanta Khoumane Khoumane Rd. Rd. Nam Phou Fountain Manthatuulat Manthatulat Rd. Rd. Nokeo Nokeo Khumman Khumman Rd. Rd. 6 3 2 22 21 20 5 14 18 15 16 4 Mekong Bus Station 17 Fa Fa Ngum Ngum Rd. Rd. Where to Stay in Vientiane Information LANE LANE XANG XANG Mekong Post Office Rd. Rd. Thai Thai Sen Sen Sam Sam Presidential Palace Mission Mission Rd. Rd. Setthathirath Setthathirath Rd. Rd. Fa Fa Ngum Rd. Rd. 26 Fa Fa Ngum Ngum Rd. Rd. 27 Lao Plaza 19 Mali Namphu Guest House 20 Mixay Guest House 16 Novotel Vientiane 1 Phonepaseuth Guest House 21 RD Guest House 14 Riverine Hotel 15 Riverside Hotel 17 Saysouly Guest House 18 Settha Palace Hotel 25 Souphaphone Guesthouse 6 Tai Pan Hotel 12 Vayakorn Guest House 13 Asian Pavilion Hotel 22 Avalon Hotel 9 City Inn Vientiane 24 Day Inn Hotel 23 Don Chan Palace 27 Green Park Boutique Hotel 26 Haysoke Guesthouse 10 Hotel Beau Rivage 2 Hotel Khamvongsa 3 Intercity Hotel 4 KP Hotel 11 Lani Guesthouse 7 Lao Orchid Hotel 5 215 VIENTIANE 11 WHERE TO STAY
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Cambodia & Laos
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Cambodia & Laos by Daniel White 1st
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CONTENTS LIST OF MAPS vii 1 THE BES
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8 SOUTHERN CAMBODIA 152 1 Sihanoukv
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LIST OF MAPS The Best Small Towns,
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HOW TO CONTACT US In researching th
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The Best of Cambodia & Laos The cou
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the world’s most rewarding journe
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MYANMAR Muang Sing (BURMA) Luang Na
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7 BEST TEMPLES & WATS • Angkor Wa
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Cambodia in Depth If ever a country
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Phnom Penh (see p. 83 for more on t
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was Mahayana, not part of the Thera
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keep Cambodia neutral in the confli
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Rouge leaders will be prompted to s
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As Hun Sen darkly quipped years lat
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place largely without violence, Cam
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high-rise residential developments
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5 CAMBODIA IN POPULAR CULTURE RECOM
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Wherever you are, stick only to bot
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Planning Your Trip to Cambodia With
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Bonn Pchum Ben. During this period,
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3 GETTING THERE & GETTING AROUND GE
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spend the night in Poipet, but this
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can be cold due to excessive air-co
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Come Armed with Singles We recommen
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the malarial mosquitoes are at thei
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are riding on a motorcycle, keep yo
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cater to travelers with disabilitie
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General Resources for Green Travel
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INTERNET In Cambodia, where you fin
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0 0 50 km 50 mi N Phumi Samraong Pr
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2 THE BEST OF LAOS IN 1 WEEK Althou
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Pak Lai Gulf of Thailand Mekong Mek
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Sao Market to shop for special Lao
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Founded in the mid-14th century by
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The Tonle Sap: The Heart of a Natio
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2 WHERE TO STAY There is a huge cho
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Mao Zedong Blvd. onireth Blvd. (217
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No. 227 St. 19. & 023/222-280. www.
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Hotel Scandinavia This relaxed offe
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Inexpensive Capitol Guesthouse The
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Mao Zedong Blvd. onireth Blvd. (217
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Phnom Penh’s Much-Loved Pachyderm
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completely punitive. They also have
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Le Jardin Café WESTERN As its name
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ao Zedong Blvd. onireth Blvd. (217)
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The Khmer Rouge on Trial As this bo
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SWIMMING & FITNESS Many top hotels
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5 DAY TRIPS OUTSIDE PHNOM PENH OUDO
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(& 023/211-534) and carries a simil
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The excellent Sovanna Phum Art Asso
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The ruins of the ancient city of An
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1 Airport (8 km) Siem Reap Phnom Pe
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10% VAT. Budget travelers are also
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Vithei Charles de Gaulle, Khum Svay
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combo and sinks set in unique overs
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fan). The courtyard area is a pictu
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Mandalay Inn One of the first thing
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NIGHTLIFE Angkor What? 28 Dead Fish
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Shinta Mani INTERNATIONAL Shinta Ma
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Taj Mahal NORTHERN INDIAN It has be
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Some Guidelines When Visiting Angko
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0 1st Level Vishnu’s victory over
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To To To Banteay Banteay Banteay Sr
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The Magic Hours at Angkor Wat The s
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Enter the temple from the west, the
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Westerners until a French researche
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Body Tune Spa, in the very heart of
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Colors of Cambodia Here’s a fun o
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A Dance for the Divine The royal cl
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APSARA DANCE Having spent the day l
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Battambang & Northern Cambodia From
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0 0 0.25 km 2 DINING Bus Stop 10 Th
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either a car with a driver or a mot
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pleasant indeed with casual but sma
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its relaxed, open-air charm. The ty
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into a trip back on a small metal-a
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a mix of traditional Khmer ballads
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The Spiders of Skuon In the town of
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$10 but can be more during high sea
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all over by 10am. The Reclining Bud
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1 3 4 2 5 7 6 8 10 8 11 12 9 15 14
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Ochheuteal Beach to Victory Beach c
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Beach Road Hotel Covering both the
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Koh Rong Beach. & 016/214-211. www.
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Snakehouse INTERNATIONAL Here’s a
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Page 181 and 182: New Bridge Kampot 1 2 Prek Kampong
Page 183 and 184: also a more straightforward house w
Page 185 and 186: and a turnoff to a small waterfall
Page 187 and 188: Information Post Office 3 2 Kep Bea
Page 189 and 190: WHERE TO DINE All the hotels and gu
Page 191 and 192: part in Lao culture; arguments are
Page 193 and 194: forces captured and sacked Xiang Do
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Page 197 and 198: CCHINA H I N A MYANMAR Muang Sing (
Page 199 and 200: visited places such as Savannakhet,
Page 201 and 202: There have been some tensions along
Page 203 and 204: Water in restaurants is safe to dri
Page 205 and 206: LAOS CALENDAR OF EVENTS For an exha
Page 207 and 208: 2 ENTRY REQUIREMENTS PASSPORTS A pa
Page 209 and 210: A simple river crossing connects Th
Page 211 and 212: will help your blood pressure to pl
Page 213 and 214: able to organize a car and driver f
Page 215 and 216: Although levels of HIV/AIDS are, at
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Page 219 and 220: monsoon forest, diverse wildlife po
Page 221 and 222: Telephone Dialing at a Glance • T
Page 223 and 224: also plenty of other shops and bout
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Page 229 and 230: MODERATE Asian Pavilion Hotel Forme
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Page 235 and 236: 1/4 mile 0 26 0 0.25 km Khoua Khoua
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Page 239 and 240: Vientiane’s Street Fare The busy
Page 241 and 242: 35 1/4 mile 0 4 34 0 0.25 km Khoua
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Page 245 and 246: start start 11 Khoua Khoua Luang Lu
Page 247 and 248: Organized Tours Most hotels, guesth
Page 249 and 250: Dokkhoun Handicrafts Mainly special
Page 251 and 252: has closed, going on until 2am in p
Page 253 and 254: ead in cafes and bakeries. You will
Page 255 and 256: GETTING THERE Vang Vieng is a smoot
Page 257 and 258: 18 17 16 1 Bus Station Hospital Pos
Page 259 and 260: Vang Vieng Orchid This is an excell
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Page 263 and 264: The Amazing Mountain Journey to Lua
Page 265 and 266: 20 L A O S L A O S Luang Prabang Vi
Page 267 and 268: The Fate of the King Savang or Sisa
Page 269 and 270: Lao Speedboat Risks Alternatively y
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L A O S L A O S Luang Prabang Vient
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Lao-style crème brûlée, a custar
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75/76 Ban Xieng Mouane. & 071/212-2
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0 0 0.25 km 27 Old Stadium Phou Pho
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where a shrine of the royal spirit
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Make Merit Picture Sunday Mass at a
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during the reign of Sam Saen Thai.
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Its name translates as “golden ci
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1 2 3 4 5 6 7 Mount Phousi Wat Pua
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SHOPPING The central area of Luang
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Banks & Currency Exchange The Bank
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If you go by road it takes about 3
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with Western-style toilets and hot
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6 PAKBENG If you are taking the slo
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next to the post office. The airpor
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containing an oxygen generator in c
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Central Laos is rarely at the top o
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L A O S Vientiane Savannakhet 4 3 S
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Dinosaurs in Laos Quite strangely,
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ACCOMMODATIONS Hotel Riveria 1 Inth
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Souksomboun Hotel This hotel is sim
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Southern Laos Southern Laos is ofte
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DINING Delta Coffee Shop and Restau
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Champasak Palace Hotel This hotel w
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More Choice Eats in Pakse There are
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WHERE TO STAY & DINE In Champasak,
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(snake) Kaliya, the god Indra ridin
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Getting There Boats leave Ban Nakas
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Fast Facts 1 FAST FACTS: CAMBODIA A
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There is no Canadian Embassy in Lao
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Khmer & Lao Glossary 1 THE KHMER LA
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HOTEL English Khmer Do you have any
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English Lao Call a doctor Toh-ha ta
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GENERAL INDEX AARP, 43, 204 Accommo
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Food stores and markets, Vientiane,
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Pak Ou Caves, 280 Pakse, 307-314 Pa
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Tham Chang (near Vang Vieng), 250 T
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Pavillon Indochine (Siem Reap), 102
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The Red Piano (Siem Reap), 108 Red
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MYANMAR MMYANMAR Y A N M A R (BURMA
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The Best of Cambodia & Laos

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