The Best of Cambodia & Laos

expensive. You will see them lined up near sites and big hotels. The drivers will often have
a printed rate card and the rates themselves are double what you pay for a regular tuk-tuk.
They can be quite pushy if they see you walking by. You can bargain with them but it’s
not a very pleasant experience.
The second type is regular tuk-tuks that patrol the city looking for a fare. These are
cheaper than the tourist vehicles. Cheapest of all are the fixed-route jumbos (a slightly
bigger version of a tuk-tuk), which operate in the same way as buses. You can hail them
as they pass or go to Talat Sao and take one from there. For most places around town you
will pay about 20¢ to 40¢.
VISITOR INFORMATION & TOURS
There is a tourist information office on Lane Xang Avenue, just north of the Morning
Market. Also see “Organized Tours” (p. 235) for tour providers in Laos, all of which have
helpful offices in Vientiane. The Vientiane Times (www.vientianetimes.org.la) is the local
English-language paper, a fun read with good listings of local events.
2 WHERE TO STAY
Vientiane has some good options that range from luxury rooms to backpacker dives.
Book ahead, especially in late November and early December, and ask for a discount if
you come during the rainy season (some places post their low-season rates). Hotels accept
U.S. dollars, Lao kip, or Thai baht. Be warned that the prices listed below do not always
include a government tax of 10% or any additional service charges (sometimes applicable
in high season).
VERY EXPENSIVE
Don Chan Palace “It’s on the river. You can’t miss it.” That’s all you need
to know to find the Don Chan Palace. While Vientiane has a law banning buildings taller
than the seven-story Victory Monument, the 14-story Don Chan brushed aside this
inconvenience by being built on an island in the Mekong. Set just south of the city business
center (a 15-min. walk or short shuttle-bus ride) and resembling a life-size dollhouse,
it really is an awful eyesore. It is enormously ugly and blights the skyline of this
most elegant of cities. Constructed in 2004 for the ASEAN conference, it really is a
mystery as to why it was allowed to come into being in the first place—the best explanation
is a misplaced desire for international prestige. Still, the views of the Mekong and
surrounding areas, especially from the rooftop restaurant, are spectacular. With its vast
convention hall and extensive business facilities, the Don Chan was clearly designed to
cater to the Asian business traveler. Rooms are business-hotel standard, with muted colors
and few traditional Lao touches, but they’re comfortable nonetheless. While the
rooms are large and up to international standards, don’t expect any charm here. You may
as well be in Chicago or Kuala Lumpur. The real draw here is the unparalleled views, so
ask for a room on the Mekong/sunset side, where you can enjoy the scenery from your
own small balcony.
Unit 6 Piawat Village, Sistanak District, Vientiane. & 021/244-288. Fax 021/244-111. www.donchan
palacelaopdr.com. 229 units. $160–$190 double; $350–$550 suite. AE, MC, V. Amenities: 3 restaurants; bar
and disco; bakery; coffee shop; concierge; outdoor gym; indoor pool; spa; sauna; steam room; travel
agency; shuttle-bus service (to city center and airport). In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, Internet access, minibar.
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VIENTIANE 11
WHERE TO STAY