The Best of Cambodia & Laos

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VIENTIANE
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VIENTIANE ESSENTIALS
BY TRAIN In 2009, the extension of the railway line from Bangkok to Nong Khai was
completed. The railway terminates at Vientiane’s Thanalaeng station. You can now
travel from Bangkok to Vientiane (or vice versa) by train on the daily overnight sleeper
train direct from Bangkok to the new international rail terminal some 13km (8 miles)
outside Vientiane.
When taking this route, it is generally easier to get off at Nong Khai and negotiate the
border in the normal way. The principal express trains depart Hualamphong station in
Bangkok at 6:40pm and 8pm.
At present visas on arrival for Laos are not issued at Thanalaeng station in Laos, only
at the Friendship Bridge, so you can only use the new through train northbound if you
already have a visa for Laos. It’s really not worth it for the final 4km (2 1 ⁄2 miles) of the
journey. Take any train between Bangkok and Nong Khai, and then use road transport
into Laos. From Nong Khai, take a local tuk-tuk from the railway station to Nong Khai
bus station. A shuttle bus runs from the bus station across the Friendship Bridge to Laos
every 20 minutes throughout the day. It costs about 90¢. It stops at Thai Immigration 5
minutes after leaving the bus station and then crosses the Friendship Bridge arriving at
Lao Customs and Immigration. You then remove your luggage from the bus and go
through Lao Customs. Once through, take another tuk-tuk to your chosen hotel.
When traveling southbound, leave central Vientiane at least 3 hours before your train
leaves Nong Khai for Bangkok, in order to allow time for border formalities and the
various bus/taxi journeys.
GETTING AROUND
Most of the things you will want to see in Vientiane are completely accessible by foot. If
you want to travel a little bit farther or a little bit faster you can do it by bicycle.
BY BICYCLE Bikes are a great way to get around town. Both bicycle and motorcycle
rentals are available at many storefronts along Fa Ngum Road near the river or along
Samsenthai. Many guesthouses have a few rattlers available, though don’t expect anything
too high-tech. The fee varies, but is generally around a dollar a day.
BY BUS If you want to get a bus to an outlying area, go to the local bus station at Talat
Sao. You can also catch a bus to the Thai border at the Friendship Bridge from here for
40¢.
CAR RENTAL You can rent a car with driver for $70 per day around town. Trips farther
afield will cost between $80 and $90. Call Asia Vehicle Rental (& 021/217-493;
www.avr.laopdr.com), or inquire at any hotel front desk. Daily rates for sedans start at
$60.
BY MOTORCYCLE Hiring a motorcycle is a popular way to explore both Vientiane
and the surrounding area. Rte. 13 from Vang Vieng to Luang Prabang is a legendary road
among motorcyclists. There are a number of places that rent out both small stepthroughs
for about $8 a day and bigger 250cc dirt bikes for $25 a day. If they don’t
provide you with a satisfactory helmet, then buy your own.
BY TAXI Taxis operate from the airport only and cost $5 for the ride into town. Going
the other way, it’s easier to take a tuk-tuk for $2.
BY TUK-TUK & JUMBO When taking a tuk-tuk in Vientiane you need to have your
wits about you, since all is not as it first appears. There are actually three kinds of tuktuks
doing the rounds in the city. The tuk-tuks specifically targeting tourists are the most