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11<br />
Vientiane (Wee-en-chan) is one <strong>of</strong><br />
the few world capitals that lacks the look<br />
and feel <strong>of</strong> what most Westerners would<br />
consider a “city,” much less a capital. Quiet,<br />
provincial, sleepy: <strong>The</strong>se are terms that<br />
come to mind on seeing Vientiane for the<br />
first time. And if you drive into town, you<br />
might not even realize when you’re actually<br />
in the city proper, as “metropolitan” Vientiane<br />
blends seamlessly with the countryside.<br />
Just a short ride in any direction from<br />
Lane Xang, the main north-south avenue,<br />
will quickly carry you into the beginnings<br />
<strong>of</strong> rural <strong>Laos</strong>.<br />
But for better or worse, the slow march<br />
to modernity seems inevitable, as the massive<br />
influx <strong>of</strong> foreign aid and manpower<br />
from both foreign governments and<br />
NGOs is bound to reshape the city and<br />
dramatically affect those who inhabit it.<br />
While recent infrastructure and telecommunications<br />
improvements portend<br />
greater future transformation, change has<br />
still come slowly in Vientiane. Traffic is<br />
only a trickle on the city center’s beautiful<br />
tree-lined boulevard, the people are always<br />
armed with their easy and ready smiles,<br />
and the city is asleep by 11pm every night.<br />
<strong>The</strong> city was ransacked by the Siamese in<br />
1828, so it lacks some <strong>of</strong> the ancient history<br />
Vientiane<br />
you find in the former capital <strong>of</strong> Luang<br />
Prabang, but many <strong>of</strong> Vientiane’s temples<br />
have been beautifully reconstructed. That<br />
Luang is the preeminent Buddhist temple<br />
in the country and the scene <strong>of</strong> a huge festival<br />
every November. <strong>The</strong> Patuxay Victory<br />
Monument is a peculiarly Lao version <strong>of</strong><br />
the Arc de Triomphe. <strong>The</strong> Morning Market<br />
comprises a full city block <strong>of</strong> goods to<br />
explore. And the Mekong, lined with picturesque<br />
colonials and cozy thatched bars,<br />
rolls through the very heart <strong>of</strong> the city and<br />
glows pink at sunset—not to be missed. It’s<br />
worth a stay <strong>of</strong> several days to take it all in<br />
and enjoy Vientiane’s relaxed atmosphere—<br />
while it lasts.<br />
Vientiane is <strong>of</strong>ten described as one <strong>of</strong> the<br />
world’s most laid-back capitals. It is small,<br />
pleasant, and compact. Although it lacks<br />
the splendors <strong>of</strong> Luang Prabang, it does<br />
have its own unique charm. Even though it<br />
is a long way from the sea, by this stage in<br />
its course the Mekong River is very wide,<br />
meandering, and rather mesmerizing.<br />
Upon arrival, whether by land or air, make<br />
your way Chanthabuli, the central district<br />
by the river. Here you will find guesthouses,<br />
hotels, restaurants, and Internet cafes. Once<br />
there most things you want to reach will be<br />
within easy walking distance.<br />
1 VIENTIANE ESSENTIALS<br />
ORIENTATION<br />
Vientiane hugs the northern bend <strong>of</strong> the Mekong River. <strong>The</strong> city is divided into districts<br />
called bans or villages. With a population <strong>of</strong> only half a million people, it is both manageable<br />
and small. Most places are easily reached by foot or bicycle.<br />
<strong>The</strong> covered market <strong>of</strong> Talat Sao marks the center <strong>of</strong> the city. Nearby are the main<br />
post <strong>of</strong>fice, the bus station, and tourist information <strong>of</strong>fice. <strong>The</strong>re are also a number <strong>of</strong><br />
banks and government <strong>of</strong>fices in the same area. In addition to Talat Sao itself, there are