The Best of Cambodia & Laos

11
Vientiane (Wee-en-chan) is one of
the few world capitals that lacks the look
and feel of what most Westerners would
consider a “city,” much less a capital. Quiet,
provincial, sleepy: These are terms that
come to mind on seeing Vientiane for the
first time. And if you drive into town, you
might not even realize when you’re actually
in the city proper, as “metropolitan” Vientiane
blends seamlessly with the countryside.
Just a short ride in any direction from
Lane Xang, the main north-south avenue,
will quickly carry you into the beginnings
of rural Laos.
But for better or worse, the slow march
to modernity seems inevitable, as the massive
influx of foreign aid and manpower
from both foreign governments and
NGOs is bound to reshape the city and
dramatically affect those who inhabit it.
While recent infrastructure and telecommunications
improvements portend
greater future transformation, change has
still come slowly in Vientiane. Traffic is
only a trickle on the city center’s beautiful
tree-lined boulevard, the people are always
armed with their easy and ready smiles,
and the city is asleep by 11pm every night.
The city was ransacked by the Siamese in
1828, so it lacks some of the ancient history
Vientiane
you find in the former capital of Luang
Prabang, but many of Vientiane’s temples
have been beautifully reconstructed. That
Luang is the preeminent Buddhist temple
in the country and the scene of a huge festival
every November. The Patuxay Victory
Monument is a peculiarly Lao version of
the Arc de Triomphe. The Morning Market
comprises a full city block of goods to
explore. And the Mekong, lined with picturesque
colonials and cozy thatched bars,
rolls through the very heart of the city and
glows pink at sunset—not to be missed. It’s
worth a stay of several days to take it all in
and enjoy Vientiane’s relaxed atmosphere—
while it lasts.
Vientiane is often described as one of the
world’s most laid-back capitals. It is small,
pleasant, and compact. Although it lacks
the splendors of Luang Prabang, it does
have its own unique charm. Even though it
is a long way from the sea, by this stage in
its course the Mekong River is very wide,
meandering, and rather mesmerizing.
Upon arrival, whether by land or air, make
your way Chanthabuli, the central district
by the river. Here you will find guesthouses,
hotels, restaurants, and Internet cafes. Once
there most things you want to reach will be
within easy walking distance.
1 VIENTIANE ESSENTIALS
ORIENTATION
Vientiane hugs the northern bend of the Mekong River. The city is divided into districts
called bans or villages. With a population of only half a million people, it is both manageable
and small. Most places are easily reached by foot or bicycle.
The covered market of Talat Sao marks the center of the city. Nearby are the main
post office, the bus station, and tourist information office. There are also a number of
banks and government offices in the same area. In addition to Talat Sao itself, there are