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200<br />
PLANNING YOUR TRIP TO LAOS<br />
10<br />
GETTING THERE & GETTING AROUND<br />
Speedier but Scarier<br />
If you are in a hurry, the quickest way to move is by Lao speedboat—a narrow<br />
flat-bottomed skiff with an outsize car engine bolted to the back that skims the<br />
surface <strong>of</strong> the water at 50 mph (80 km/h), shooting rapids and narrowly missing<br />
boulders. If you do reach your destination, you will do it very quickly. Huay<br />
Xai to Luang Prabang takes about 6 hours and costs $30.<br />
Passengers are required to wear a helmet and a life jacket, with very good<br />
reason. <strong>The</strong>se craft are extremely dangerous with a track record <strong>of</strong> accidents. If<br />
you do choose to take your life in your hands, it’s definitely an experience for<br />
the adrenaline junkie. It is, at turns, both exhilarating and terrifying as you<br />
imagine the bottom <strong>of</strong> the boat being ripped out and yourself disemboweled<br />
by the needle-sharp points just below the surface <strong>of</strong> the churning water. It is<br />
worth remembering that medical care in northern <strong>Laos</strong> is basic to say the least.<br />
At the time <strong>of</strong> writing, speedboat service on the route from Huay Xai to Luang<br />
Prabang had been suspended due to noise disruption and accidents. It was still<br />
running on the Nam Ou River from Phonsaly to Muong Khua.<br />
In <strong>Laos</strong> you are required to wear a helmet<br />
by law, but you will notice that most<br />
people don’t. Wear one anyway and make<br />
sure it fits well and is <strong>of</strong> adequate quality.<br />
Wear gloves and a jacket, and make sure<br />
you have goggles or a visor. Both bugs and<br />
dust can be a problem. Above all, ride<br />
slowly to give yourself plenty <strong>of</strong> reaction<br />
time. <strong>The</strong> traffic may be sparse, but dogs,<br />
pigs, snakes, goats, water buffalo, and<br />
small children are unpredictable and<br />
appear out <strong>of</strong> nowhere. Also be aware that<br />
drivers in Lao, particularly Vientiane, are<br />
aggressive. Keep space around you. For<br />
up-to-date and in-depth info from real<br />
motorcycling experts check out www.gtrider.com.<br />
A bike suitable for touring,<br />
generally 250cc dirt bikes, costs $25 a day<br />
and can be hired in Vientiane (see p. 212<br />
in chapter 11).<br />
If you are pushed for time and want to<br />
undertake an organized motorcycle or selfguided<br />
tour tailored to your needs, but<br />
with expert support, Remote Asia (www.<br />
remoteasia.com) in Vientiane are the<br />
experts. <strong>The</strong>y <strong>of</strong>fer a range <strong>of</strong> services<br />
including motorcycle rental (ranging from<br />
well maintained 400cc cruising road bikes<br />
to 250cc dirt bikes), equipment rental,<br />
plus a flexible range <strong>of</strong> tour options.<br />
<strong>The</strong>y’ll design an itinerary that will cater<br />
to your needs and ensure you don’t waste a<br />
precious minute <strong>of</strong> your motorcycling<br />
adventure. <strong>The</strong>y will also keep in touch<br />
with you along the way to make sure<br />
everything is running as planned and<br />
smooth the way if you alter your plans on<br />
a whim.<br />
If you want to rent a runaround to see<br />
the sites, you can hire a 100cc-to-125cc<br />
step-through in most towns <strong>of</strong> any size for<br />
$5 and $15. Some are Thai-made and<br />
some are Chinese-made—the Thai-made<br />
bikes are better.<br />
You can rent a car to drive yourself if<br />
you wish, but generally it costs no more to<br />
hire one with a driver who is used to the<br />
roads, knows where he is going, and is<br />
responsible for any damage or breakdowns.<br />
Your hotel or a travel agent will be
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