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The Best of Cambodia & Laos

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10<br />

Planning Your<br />

Trip to <strong>Laos</strong><br />

Only a decade ago, <strong>Laos</strong> was a very difficult country to get around.<br />

When there were roads, they were usually dreadful. <strong>The</strong> domestic airline, then called Lao<br />

Aviation, had a reputation for plummeting as much as flying horizontally. Anywhere<br />

outside <strong>of</strong> the most touristed areas, facilities were <strong>of</strong>ten reduced to a level <strong>of</strong> cold water,<br />

no electricity, and food that could flatteringly be described as basic. In short, it was an<br />

adventure.<br />

That era seems like a different age when you travel in <strong>Laos</strong> today. In one short decade,<br />

almost all the main roads have been paved and sealed. Planes are now less likely to fall<br />

out <strong>of</strong> the sky and buses are now frequent (though it would be a lie to call them comfortable).<br />

Fresh hotels and guesthouses spring up every month in every category. In the major<br />

towns, one can sample high-quality French cuisine, while Lao food is distinctive and<br />

delicious. <strong>Laos</strong> also remains a cheap country for travel. <strong>The</strong> slow pace <strong>of</strong> life has been<br />

complemented by change rather than destroyed by it, and <strong>Laos</strong>’s tranquillity now comes<br />

with a great deal less physical discomfort than was once the case. <strong>The</strong>re are exceptions,<br />

Vang Vieng being the glaring example.<br />

Having said all this, it is still a good idea to factor in plenty <strong>of</strong> time when traveling in<br />

<strong>Laos</strong>, since levels <strong>of</strong> efficiency are still not high.<br />

High season for tourism in <strong>Laos</strong> is November<br />

through March and the month <strong>of</strong><br />

August, when weather conditions are<br />

favorable, plus the Lao New Year in the<br />

middle <strong>of</strong> April. Accommodations run at<br />

full capacity and transportation can be<br />

overbooked at these times.<br />

<strong>Laos</strong>’s tropical climate ushers in a wet<br />

monsoon season, lasting from early May<br />

to October, followed by a dry season from<br />

November through April. In Vientiane,<br />

average temperatures range from 71°F<br />

1 WHEN TO GO<br />

Average Temperatures & Rainfall (in.) in Vientiane<br />

(22°C) in January to 84°F (29°C) in April.<br />

<strong>The</strong> northern regions get chilly from<br />

November to February and can approach<br />

freezing temperatures at night in mountainous<br />

areas. Beginning in mid-February,<br />

temperatures gradually climb, and April<br />

can see temperatures over 100°F (38°C).<br />

In order to avoid the rain and heat,<br />

November through February is the best<br />

time to visit southern <strong>Laos</strong>. In the mountains<br />

<strong>of</strong> the north, temperatures are still<br />

comfortable from May through July.<br />

Month Jan Feb Mar Apr May June July Aug Sept Oct Nov Dec<br />

Temp. (°F) 73 77 82 85 84 84 83 83 82 81 78 72<br />

Temp. (°C) 23 25 28 29 29 29 28 28 28 27 26 22<br />

Rainfall (in.) 0.1 0.7 1.1 2.2 6.6 8 8.3 9.3 8.7 2.1 0.3 0.2<br />

Note that these numbers are daily averages, so expect temperatures to climb significantly

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