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The Best of Cambodia & Laos

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188<br />

LAOS IN DEPTH<br />

9<br />

A PATCHWORK OF ETHNICITY<br />

<strong>The</strong> large population <strong>of</strong> Lao people living<br />

in France and the USA means that<br />

there are also singers playing hybrid forms<br />

<strong>of</strong> Lao and western music, be that genres<br />

as international as rap or heavy metal. This<br />

is a relatively new phenomenon in <strong>Laos</strong><br />

itself since until as recently as 2003, “modern”<br />

music was virtually against the law<br />

since the seriously unhip ruling politburo<br />

thought it was a capitulation to decadent<br />

Western values.<br />

<strong>The</strong>re is a vibrant live music scene in<br />

Vientiane. Bars such as <strong>The</strong> Wind West<br />

(p. 239) feature very skilled musicians<br />

playing both Western covers, Lao pop, and<br />

traditional music.<br />

<strong>The</strong> people <strong>of</strong> <strong>Laos</strong> are ethnically diverse,<br />

though a truly authoritative survey <strong>of</strong> all<br />

ethnic groups has never been conducted.<br />

Before the wars in the ’60s and ’70s, more<br />

than 60 different groups were commonly<br />

identified. <strong>The</strong> 1985 census listed 47<br />

groups. Some <strong>of</strong> these were made up <strong>of</strong><br />

only a few hundred people. A lot <strong>of</strong> this<br />

huge variation in estimated numbers was a<br />

result <strong>of</strong> disagreement about what actually<br />

represents a separate ethnic group. <strong>The</strong><br />

1985 census also defined three general ethnic<br />

group classifications defined by origin<br />

and language. Defining ethnicity in <strong>Laos</strong><br />

still remains an inexact science.<br />

<strong>The</strong> lowland Lao, or Lao Loum, make<br />

up the majority <strong>of</strong> the population, 66% in<br />

total. In turn they are made up <strong>of</strong> a number<br />

<strong>of</strong> different sub groups. All Lao Loum<br />

speak languages <strong>of</strong> the Tai-Kadai family;<br />

Lao, Lue, Tai Dam (Black Tai), and Tai<br />

Deng (Red Tai). <strong>The</strong>y stay in the river valleys<br />

and engage in wet rice cultivation.<br />

<strong>The</strong> distinction between Thai and <strong>Laos</strong> is<br />

a political one rather than an ethnic one.<br />

<strong>The</strong> vast majority <strong>of</strong> people who could be<br />

classified as Lao actually live in the northeastern<br />

provinces <strong>of</strong> Thailand.<br />

DANCE<br />

Although <strong>Laos</strong> shares traditions <strong>of</strong> classical<br />

dance with both Thailand and <strong>Cambodia</strong>,<br />

it is not an art form that has been particularly<br />

nurtured over the last 40 years. This<br />

is largely as a result <strong>of</strong> relentless conflict<br />

and a population generally prioritizing<br />

survival rather than the arts. Unlike in<br />

<strong>Cambodia</strong> where dance was very nearly<br />

dramatically and murderously wiped out,<br />

the Lao government has been largely indifferent<br />

to the slow decline <strong>of</strong> some traditional<br />

arts. That doesn’t mean that all<br />

dance is dead. <strong>The</strong> lamvong, the national<br />

folk dance in which participants dance in<br />

concentric circles, remains very popular.<br />

5 A PATCHWORK OF ETHNICITY<br />

<strong>The</strong> Lao <strong>The</strong>ung, or midland Lao,<br />

account for about 24% <strong>of</strong> the population<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>Laos</strong>; they were originally displaced to<br />

higher ground by the migrations <strong>of</strong> the<br />

Lao Loum. <strong>The</strong> cultural and linguistic<br />

variation among the numerous Lao<br />

<strong>The</strong>ung groups is more pronounced than<br />

those <strong>of</strong> the Lao Loum or Lao Sung, or<br />

upland Lao. Groups range from the Khmu<br />

and Lamet in the north, to the Katang and<br />

Makong in the center <strong>of</strong> the country, to<br />

the Loven and Lawae farther south.<br />

<strong>The</strong> Lao Sung, <strong>of</strong>ten called hill tribes,<br />

make up about 10% <strong>of</strong> the population.<br />

<strong>The</strong>se groups are Miao-Yao or Tibeto-<br />

Burmese speaking peoples who migrated<br />

relatively recently from Southern China.<br />

In <strong>Laos</strong> most highland groups live on the<br />

upper slopes <strong>of</strong> mountains in the north<br />

farming rice on steeply stepped terraces.<br />

Some <strong>of</strong> these groups have been resettled<br />

in lowland areas since the 1970s. <strong>The</strong><br />

Hmong are the most numerous <strong>of</strong> these<br />

hill tribe groups, with villages spread<br />

across all the Northern provinces. Mien<br />

(Yao), Akha, Lahu, and other related<br />

groups are fewer in number and tend to be<br />

located in more restricted areas.

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