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The Best of Cambodia & Laos

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186<br />

LAOS IN DEPTH<br />

9<br />

ART & ARCHITECTURE<br />

liberalizing in terms <strong>of</strong> economic freedom<br />

and making the country more open, while<br />

still keeping an iron grip on political<br />

power. Close relations with Vietnam have<br />

been maintained but have become more<br />

balanced by a closer relationship with the<br />

<strong>Laos</strong> is a landlocked nation that covers<br />

236,800 sq. km (92,352 sq. miles),<br />

roughly the size <strong>of</strong> the state <strong>of</strong> Utah or<br />

Great Britain. <strong>The</strong> country is divided into<br />

16 provinces. It is bordered by Burma to<br />

the northeast, <strong>Cambodia</strong> to the south,<br />

China to the north, Thailand to the west,<br />

and Vietnam to the east. Its location has<br />

<strong>of</strong>ten made it a buffer between neighboring<br />

states and empires, as well as a crossroads<br />

for trade and communication.<br />

<strong>Laos</strong> is mostly mountainous, with steep<br />

terrain, narrow river valleys, and little<br />

agricultural potential. Seventy percent <strong>of</strong><br />

its land is mountain ranges and plateaus.<br />

<strong>The</strong>se mountains extend across most <strong>of</strong><br />

the north <strong>of</strong> the country, except for the<br />

plain <strong>of</strong> Vientiane and the Plain <strong>of</strong> Jars in<br />

Xiangkhoang Province. <strong>The</strong> south <strong>of</strong> the<br />

country contains large level areas in Savannakhet<br />

and Champasak provinces that are<br />

well suited for extensive wet rice cultiva-<br />

ARCHITECTURE<br />

Architecture in <strong>Laos</strong> is a real mix. In the<br />

countryside and villages, people live in<br />

wooden houses simply constructed. In the<br />

flatlands these house tend to be on stilts<br />

(as in <strong>Cambodia</strong>). Structures in larger<br />

towns are much different. <strong>The</strong>re are exquisite<br />

temples built in a number <strong>of</strong> styles<br />

that are very close to that <strong>of</strong> North Thailand.<br />

Generally with Lao wats, the ro<strong>of</strong><br />

reaches very low—almost to the ground in<br />

an elegant arc. <strong>The</strong>re is also plenty <strong>of</strong> dark<br />

3 LAY OF THE LAND<br />

Thais (who are, after all, ethnic cousins).<br />

<strong>The</strong>re has been occasional dissent with<br />

some bombings and shootings, which the<br />

government blamed, almost certainly spuriously,<br />

on Hmong rebels.<br />

tion and livestock. Much <strong>of</strong> Khammouane<br />

Province and the eastern part <strong>of</strong> all the<br />

southern provinces are mountainous.<br />

Together, the alluvial plains and terraces <strong>of</strong><br />

the Mekong and its tributaries cover only<br />

about 20% <strong>of</strong> the total land area. Only<br />

about 4% <strong>of</strong> the total land area is classified<br />

as arable. Forests have declined dramatically<br />

in the last 40 years due to logging<br />

and slash-and-burn agriculture.<br />

With an estimated population <strong>of</strong> nearly<br />

5.7 million, <strong>Laos</strong> is one <strong>of</strong> the most<br />

sparsely populated countries in Asia. Natural<br />

landmarks include the Annamite<br />

Mountains along the border with Vietnam,<br />

as well as the Mekong River, which<br />

flows from China and along <strong>Laos</strong>’s border<br />

with Thailand. About 55% <strong>of</strong> the landscape<br />

is pristine tropical forest, sheltering<br />

such rare and wild animals as elephants,<br />

leopards, the Java mongoose, panthers,<br />

gibbons, and black bears.<br />

4 ART & ARCHITECTURE<br />

wood and gold. A wander around Luang<br />

Prabang is a rewarding experience if you<br />

have an interest in Buddhist temples. <strong>The</strong>y<br />

are simply stunning.<br />

<strong>The</strong> other element to the mix that<br />

makes Luang Prabang and Vientiane so<br />

beautiful is the French factor. Whether<br />

they did it intentionally or not, the French<br />

created beautiful buildings all over Indochina,<br />

and <strong>Laos</strong> is no exception. In Vientiane<br />

or Luang Prabang, these buildings<br />

look cared for and preserved. In other less

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