The Best of Cambodia & Laos

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184 LAOS IN DEPTH 9 LOOKING BACK BOMBING & WAR The Americans installed a right-wing proxy regime and the Pathet Lao returned to war. The following years were marked by confusion, uncertainty, and conflict. In May 1961, a second conference was held in Geneva to hammer out a solution. Eventually the three protagonists, Sovanna Phouma for the neutralists, Souphanouvong for the Pathet Lao, and Prince Boun Oum of Champasak for the right wing, came to an agreement that established a government that balanced all factions. This quickly started to crumble as the pressures of increasingly ferocious conflict in Vietnam took its toll. As with Cambodia, North Vietnam used Laos as a place from which to arm and supply its army. And as previously for the French, the Plain of Jars was the Achilles’ heel of Hanoi and it became a fierce battleground. While the fiction of neutrality was maintained, in 1964 the U.S. started a campaign of mass carpet-bombing and air-to-ground attacks on the Plain of Jars. This was soon repeated all up and down the Ho Chi Minh Trail. From 1964 to 1973, the U.S. Air Force dropped more ordinance on Laos than it did on Germany in World War II; more than 2 million tons of it involving over 600,000 missions. No one knows just how many Lao villagers were killed or incinerated in this brutal but secret war, but what is certainly known is that North Vietnamese supply lines to the Viet Cong in the south remained intact. One-third of Lao people became internally displaced. By 1968, there were an estimated 40,000 North Vietnamese troops on Lao soil with an added 35,000 Pathet Lao. The Lao government fielded 70,000 soldiers supported by 30,000 U.S.-sponsored hill tribe Hmong mercenaries under the command of General Vang Pao. The battles raged until the Americans pulled American forces out of the Vietnam War in 1973. THE PATHET LAO TAKE OVER April 1975 marked the fall of both Saigon and Phnom Penh. The Pathet Lao instigated mass street protests against the Lao government and the Americans. After peacefully “liberating” town after town across the country, Pathet Lao forces marched into Vientiane in August 1975 and Souvanna Phouma stepped down to prevent bloodshed. This was essentially a North Vietnamese victory. Many prominent figures from the old regime, and many less prominent, were sent to remote camps for long periods of what both the North Vietnamese and the Pathet Lao termed “reeducation.” Many Lao people voted with their feet and crossed the river to Thailand, while King Sisavang Vatthana was forced to abdicate and died 3 years later in a Pathet Lao prison camp. On December 2, 1975, the victorious Communists established the Lao People’s Democratic Republic and the institutions that exist to this day. Although by no means cuddly, the new regime was far more flexible than those in Vietnam or Cambodia. Its final victory was achieved by pressure and negotiation rather than direct military conquest. Although rigorously Communist, the Pathet Lao did not challenge Buddhism or the respect for the Sangha (the Buddhist clergy). The former Hmong mercenaries of Vang Pao were hunted down and continue to be persecuted, though they have also become a regional and international political football. The Lao government has also been relatively nimble on economic reform, instituting the “New Economic Mechanism” in 1986 to counter a crisis of lack of investment and foreign aid. With the death of the original leader, Kaysone Phomvihane, the party did not falter in maintaining its grip on power. It has successfully followed the Chinese model of
CCHINA H I N A MYANMAR Muang Sing (BURMA) Luang Dien Bien Phu Nam Tha 3 Muang Xai Huay Xai 2 Sam Neua Chiang Khong 1 Vieng Xai Pakbeng Hua Muang 6 Luang Prabang Nong Haet Xieng Muang Ngoen 7 Kham Sainyabuli Kasi Phonsavan Mohan MYANMAR Muang Sing (BURMA) Luang Boten Dien Bien Phu Nam Tha Muang Xai Huay Xai Sam Neua Chiang Khong Vieng Xai Pakbeng Hua Muang Luang Prabang Plain of Nong Haet Xieng Jars Muang Ngoen Kham Sainyabuli Kasi Phonsavan Mohan Boten Plain of Jars Pak Lai Bangkok Gulf Gulf of of Thailand Thailand 13 Vang Vieng Nakhon Ratchasima Mekong Mekong Phon Hong Vientiane Phongsali Nam Nam Ou Ou Nam Nam Nong Khai Udon Thani Ngum Ngum TTHAILAND H A I L A N D Nam Nam Seuang Seuang Ang Ang Nam Nam Ngum Ngum LLAOS A O S Pakxan Mekong Mekong Nakhon Phanom Siem Reap VVIETNAM I E T N A M Tha Khek 13 CCAMBODIA A M B O D I A Hanoi 1 Vinh Savannakhet Xepon Mukdahan 9 Phim Lao Bao Ubon Ratchathani 0 Se Se Noi Noi Chong Mek Champasak 0 100 km Voeung Voeung Kam Salavan Pakse Pathum Phon 100 mi Railway Laos Haiphong Gulf Gulf of of Tonkin Tonkin Hue 185 LAOS IN DEPTH 4 LOOKING BACK
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Cambodia & Laos
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Cambodia & Laos by Daniel White 1st
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CONTENTS LIST OF MAPS vii 1 THE BES
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8 SOUTHERN CAMBODIA 152 1 Sihanoukv
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LIST OF MAPS The Best Small Towns,
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HOW TO CONTACT US In researching th
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The Best of Cambodia & Laos The cou
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the world’s most rewarding journe
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MYANMAR Muang Sing (BURMA) Luang Na
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7 BEST TEMPLES & WATS • Angkor Wa
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Cambodia in Depth If ever a country
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Phnom Penh (see p. 83 for more on t
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was Mahayana, not part of the Thera
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keep Cambodia neutral in the confli
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Rouge leaders will be prompted to s
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As Hun Sen darkly quipped years lat
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place largely without violence, Cam
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high-rise residential developments
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5 CAMBODIA IN POPULAR CULTURE RECOM
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Wherever you are, stick only to bot
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Planning Your Trip to Cambodia With
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Bonn Pchum Ben. During this period,
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3 GETTING THERE & GETTING AROUND GE
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spend the night in Poipet, but this
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can be cold due to excessive air-co
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Come Armed with Singles We recommen
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the malarial mosquitoes are at thei
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are riding on a motorcycle, keep yo
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cater to travelers with disabilitie
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General Resources for Green Travel
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INTERNET In Cambodia, where you fin
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0 0 50 km 50 mi N Phumi Samraong Pr
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2 THE BEST OF LAOS IN 1 WEEK Althou
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Pak Lai Gulf of Thailand Mekong Mek
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Sao Market to shop for special Lao
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Founded in the mid-14th century by
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The Tonle Sap: The Heart of a Natio
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2 WHERE TO STAY There is a huge cho
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Mao Zedong Blvd. onireth Blvd. (217
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No. 227 St. 19. & 023/222-280. www.
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Hotel Scandinavia This relaxed offe
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Inexpensive Capitol Guesthouse The
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Mao Zedong Blvd. onireth Blvd. (217
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Phnom Penh’s Much-Loved Pachyderm
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completely punitive. They also have
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Le Jardin Café WESTERN As its name
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ao Zedong Blvd. onireth Blvd. (217)
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The Khmer Rouge on Trial As this bo
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SWIMMING & FITNESS Many top hotels
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5 DAY TRIPS OUTSIDE PHNOM PENH OUDO
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(& 023/211-534) and carries a simil
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The excellent Sovanna Phum Art Asso
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The ruins of the ancient city of An
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1 Airport (8 km) Siem Reap Phnom Pe
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10% VAT. Budget travelers are also
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Vithei Charles de Gaulle, Khum Svay
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combo and sinks set in unique overs
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fan). The courtyard area is a pictu
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Mandalay Inn One of the first thing
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NIGHTLIFE Angkor What? 28 Dead Fish
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Shinta Mani INTERNATIONAL Shinta Ma
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Taj Mahal NORTHERN INDIAN It has be
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Some Guidelines When Visiting Angko
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0 1st Level Vishnu’s victory over
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To To To Banteay Banteay Banteay Sr
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The Magic Hours at Angkor Wat The s
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Enter the temple from the west, the
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Westerners until a French researche
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Body Tune Spa, in the very heart of
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Colors of Cambodia Here’s a fun o
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A Dance for the Divine The royal cl
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APSARA DANCE Having spent the day l
Page 145 and 146: Battambang & Northern Cambodia From
Page 147 and 148: 0 0 0.25 km 2 DINING Bus Stop 10 Th
Page 149 and 150: either a car with a driver or a mot
Page 151 and 152: pleasant indeed with casual but sma
Page 153 and 154: its relaxed, open-air charm. The ty
Page 155 and 156: into a trip back on a small metal-a
Page 157 and 158: a mix of traditional Khmer ballads
Page 159 and 160: The Spiders of Skuon In the town of
Page 161 and 162: $10 but can be more during high sea
Page 163 and 164: all over by 10am. The Reclining Bud
Page 165 and 166: 1 3 4 2 5 7 6 8 10 8 11 12 9 15 14
Page 167 and 168: Ochheuteal Beach to Victory Beach c
Page 169 and 170: Beach Road Hotel Covering both the
Page 171 and 172: Koh Rong Beach. & 016/214-211. www.
Page 173 and 174: Snakehouse INTERNATIONAL Here’s a
Page 175 and 176: Cooking Courses If you want to lear
Page 177 and 178: ACCOMMODATIONS Champa Koh Kong Gues
Page 179 and 180: can take a motorcycle or car into t
Page 181 and 182: New Bridge Kampot 1 2 Prek Kampong
Page 183 and 184: also a more straightforward house w
Page 185 and 186: and a turnoff to a small waterfall
Page 187 and 188: Information Post Office 3 2 Kep Bea
Page 189 and 190: WHERE TO DINE All the hotels and gu
Page 191 and 192: part in Lao culture; arguments are
Page 193 and 194: forces captured and sacked Xiang Do
Page 195: 1950, an offshoot of pro-Vietminh I
Page 199 and 200: visited places such as Savannakhet,
Page 201 and 202: There have been some tensions along
Page 203 and 204: Water in restaurants is safe to dri
Page 205 and 206: LAOS CALENDAR OF EVENTS For an exha
Page 207 and 208: 2 ENTRY REQUIREMENTS PASSPORTS A pa
Page 209 and 210: A simple river crossing connects Th
Page 211 and 212: will help your blood pressure to pl
Page 213 and 214: able to organize a car and driver f
Page 215 and 216: Although levels of HIV/AIDS are, at
Page 217 and 218: Prabang and Vientiane are geared mo
Page 219 and 220: monsoon forest, diverse wildlife po
Page 221 and 222: Telephone Dialing at a Glance • T
Page 223 and 224: also plenty of other shops and bout
Page 225 and 226: expensive. You will see them lined
Page 227 and 228: 1/4 mile 0 L A O S L A O S 0 0.25 k
Page 229 and 230: MODERATE Asian Pavilion Hotel Forme
Page 231 and 232: Riverine Hotel This old colonial vi
Page 233 and 234: 37-01 Nokeo Khoummane Rd. & 021/262
Page 235 and 236: 1/4 mile 0 26 0 0.25 km Khoua Khoua
Page 237 and 238: favorites from home. They have subm
Page 239 and 240: Vientiane’s Street Fare The busy
Page 241 and 242: 35 1/4 mile 0 4 34 0 0.25 km Khoua
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Page 245 and 246: start start 11 Khoua Khoua Luang Lu
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Organized Tours Most hotels, guesth
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Dokkhoun Handicrafts Mainly special
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has closed, going on until 2am in p
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ead in cafes and bakeries. You will
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GETTING THERE Vang Vieng is a smoot
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18 17 16 1 Bus Station Hospital Pos
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Vang Vieng Orchid This is an excell
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20m (66 ft.) from the main junction
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The Amazing Mountain Journey to Lua
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20 L A O S L A O S Luang Prabang Vi
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The Fate of the King Savang or Sisa
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Lao Speedboat Risks Alternatively y
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wood floors, and fashionable room d
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lush rice paddies and picturesque h
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great riverside location, although
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L A O S L A O S Luang Prabang Vient
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Lao-style crème brûlée, a custar
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75/76 Ban Xieng Mouane. & 071/212-2
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0 0 0.25 km 27 Old Stadium Phou Pho
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where a shrine of the royal spirit
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Make Merit Picture Sunday Mass at a
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during the reign of Sam Saen Thai.
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Its name translates as “golden ci
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1 2 3 4 5 6 7 Mount Phousi Wat Pua
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SHOPPING The central area of Luang
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Banks & Currency Exchange The Bank
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If you go by road it takes about 3
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with Western-style toilets and hot
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6 PAKBENG If you are taking the slo
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next to the post office. The airpor
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containing an oxygen generator in c
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Central Laos is rarely at the top o
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L A O S Vientiane Savannakhet 4 3 S
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Dinosaurs in Laos Quite strangely,
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ACCOMMODATIONS Hotel Riveria 1 Inth
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Souksomboun Hotel This hotel is sim
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Southern Laos Southern Laos is ofte
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DINING Delta Coffee Shop and Restau
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Champasak Palace Hotel This hotel w
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More Choice Eats in Pakse There are
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WHERE TO STAY & DINE In Champasak,
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(snake) Kaliya, the god Indra ridin
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Getting There Boats leave Ban Nakas
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Fast Facts 1 FAST FACTS: CAMBODIA A
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There is no Canadian Embassy in Lao
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Khmer & Lao Glossary 1 THE KHMER LA
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HOTEL English Khmer Do you have any
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English Lao Call a doctor Toh-ha ta
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GENERAL INDEX AARP, 43, 204 Accommo
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Food stores and markets, Vientiane,
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Pak Ou Caves, 280 Pakse, 307-314 Pa
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Tham Chang (near Vang Vieng), 250 T
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Pavillon Indochine (Siem Reap), 102
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The Red Piano (Siem Reap), 108 Red
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MYANMAR MMYANMAR Y A N M A R (BURMA
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