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9<br />
<strong>Laos</strong> in Depth<br />
Wherever you have traveled from, arriving in <strong>Laos</strong> involves slowing<br />
down. For many years, <strong>Laos</strong> remained a forgotten land and wasn’t considered by many<br />
to be a viable travel option. Part <strong>of</strong> this ignorance is a result <strong>of</strong> the shroud <strong>of</strong> <strong>Laos</strong>’s Communist<br />
government, which became politically and economically isolated after taking<br />
power in 1975. An air <strong>of</strong> mystery then drifted over the country.<br />
In recent years, more light has shined on <strong>Laos</strong>, and the world is slowly discovering<br />
what the country and its people have to <strong>of</strong>fer. Following in the footsteps <strong>of</strong> its more<br />
prosperous neighbors, <strong>Laos</strong> is making a concerted effort to build its fledgling tourism<br />
industry. <strong>Laos</strong> is one <strong>of</strong> the poorest countries in the world. Its designation by the United<br />
Nations as a “least-developed country” ensures an influx <strong>of</strong> money from both foreign<br />
governments and nongovernmental organizations (NGOs) alike. In the last 10 years, the<br />
level <strong>of</strong> development and interaction with the outside world has been extremely rapid.<br />
<strong>The</strong>se days, it is fast becoming the crossroads <strong>of</strong> the region as infrastructure is developed<br />
connecting China, Vietnam, and Thailand. <strong>The</strong>re are now two bridge crossings over the<br />
Mekong, and the Golden Triangle is becoming a pivotal junction for all the countries it<br />
encompasses. <strong>The</strong> days <strong>of</strong> Cold War isolation are now a very distant memory, as tourists<br />
flood into <strong>Laos</strong> to enjoy the cultural riches <strong>of</strong> Luang Prabang, the laid-back charm <strong>of</strong><br />
Vientiane, and the enigmatic mysteries <strong>of</strong> the Plain <strong>of</strong> Jars. Only just over a decade ago,<br />
crossing from Thailand to <strong>Laos</strong> was like crossing a bridge in time. Thailand was looking<br />
forward to the 21st century, draped in neon, fast food, and six-lane highways. Lao people,<br />
still recovering from war and living in the aftermath <strong>of</strong> 20 years <strong>of</strong> Vietnamese and<br />
Soviet sponsored isolation, sat in their intermittently lit, crumbling, colonial French built<br />
towns staring across the Mekong at a different age. <strong>The</strong> gap is narrowing fast.<br />
Yet the essential appeal <strong>of</strong> <strong>Laos</strong> remains intact. It remains very much a land <strong>of</strong> misty<br />
mountains, beautiful French colonial–built towns, and glittering Buddhist temples.<br />
Vientiane, a perennial candidate for the “sleepiest capital in the world” crown, may be<br />
shocking to some. But a few days spent wandering the streets and watching the sun set<br />
over the Mekong makes a good introduction to “Lao time.” A few hours north <strong>of</strong> Vientiane,<br />
Vang Vieng has become a hideaway for the backpacker-hippie crowds who gather<br />
in the shadow <strong>of</strong> the spectacular limestone outcrops that line the Nam Song River. Farther<br />
north lies Luang Prabang, ancient capital and UNESCO World Heritage Site. With<br />
its almost three dozen temples, French colonial architecture, and rich history, Luang<br />
Prabang is a magical town and not to be missed. In the far north, the Nam Ha Biodiversity<br />
Conservation Area, in Luang Namtha, <strong>of</strong>fers <strong>of</strong>f-the-beaten-path adventures. <strong>The</strong><br />
pre-Angkorian temple Wat Phou sits in the southern province <strong>of</strong> Champasak. Finally,<br />
remnants <strong>of</strong> an even older civilization are in evidence at the mysterious Plain <strong>of</strong> Jars, in<br />
the heart <strong>of</strong> Xieng Khouang province.<br />
Sixty percent <strong>of</strong> Lao people are practicing Buddhists, and that fact colors every facet <strong>of</strong><br />
life. Temples and stupas dominate the architecture <strong>of</strong> even the smallest village, and you’re<br />
sure to spot groups <strong>of</strong> monks in colorful robes on their early morning pintabat, or alms<br />
rounds, especially in Luang Prabang. Buddhist acceptance and compassion play an important