The Best of Cambodia & Laos

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174 SOUTHERN CAMBODIA 8 KEP 4 KEP Only a half-hour’s drive from Kampot is the place that was once considered the Cambodian Riviera in the time of the French, continuing under the rule of Sihanouk. Indeed, Sihanouk’s old seaside villa still stands, though he never actually stayed in it since the area became unstable before the curtains were chosen and the place was furnished. Now it is crumbling and pocked with bullet holes, but one can easily imagine how grand it once could have been. Kep (and indeed much of southern Cambodia) was a fierce battleground over the years of war and the derelict feel still remains, although developers are moving in fast and things are changing. There is very little beach at Kep and what there is remains pretty scruffy and stony. There are some secluded resorts that appeal to some, but at present facilities are limited. Kep is better done as a short, relaxed day trip from Kampot, unless it provides the particular kind of seclusion you crave. It is a pretty drive from one to the other. Where Kep is a world beater is when it comes to seafood. They fish some of the best crab in the world off Kep, and Kampot is renowned for producing the best pepper on the globe. The killer recipe doesn’t take much working out and Kep crab in Kampot pepper lives up to anyone’s expectations. There is a strip of restaurants right on the beach road coming from Kampot (it is signposted) where the crab is unloaded. This place is called, not surprisingly, the crab market. GETTING THERE & GETTING AROUND Kep is situated around a loop in the main road from Kampot to Vietnam. Approaching Kep from Kampot, you turn right off the main road (Rte. 33) at the roundabout with the “White Horse Monument” at its center. The diversion takes you first past the crab market, then on to the main beach. It is a one-way road once in town, with an inner loop that takes you up the hill behind the beach and following on round the back, returning to the crab market. If you continue on the wider loop along the beach and the seafront you pass Sihanouk’s former villa, continuing past the boat dock and the market until the loop reunites you with the main road heading east. Resorts and guesthouses are situated along the beach road coming from the White Horse Monument turnoff and scattered among the hills behind the main beach. From Kampot, take a tuk-tuk, a moto, or a taxi. Alternatively, hire your own motorcycle (p. 35) so that you have the freedom to stop where you like and explore. If you are staying in Kep, you can rent a motorcycle from a guesthouse just back from the seafront near the main roundabout called Ratanak Kongkea (& 099/ 791-679) for $5 a day. Cheak Chit Guesthouse (& 016/770-277) right next door and Sovan Sakor (& 012/608-345) a little farther up the road also rent out bikes. Buses (Sorya Transport) from Phnom Penh to Kampot pass through Kep and drop off and pick up near the beach. Feasting in Kep The restaurants at the Kampot end are a little more expensive and not as good. The best one is the farthest along toward Kep. On the weekend you will see more cars parked outside this restaurant than any other.
Information Post Office 3 2 Kep Beach ACCOMMODATIONS Knai Bang Chatt 2 Veranda Natural Resort 4 Le Flamboyant 7 Le Bout de Monde 5 The Botanica 1 7 6 Kep 1 4 5 KEP NATIONAL PARK DINING Crab Market 3 The Riel Bar & Restaurant 6 ATMs The nearest place for banks and ATMs is Kampot. 33a Kep 0 C A M B O D I A 0 0.5 km Phnom Penh 1/2 mi 33a N Gulf of Thailand Doctors & Hospitals There are no medical services in Kep, and you’ll need to head to Phnom Penh if you’re sick. Tourism Information There is a Department of Tourism Office just near the central circle. It is in a fine building but is rarely open. Your hotel or guesthouse remains your main source of information if staying in Kep. Kep WHERE TO STAY There has been something of an explosion in accommodations in Kep, no doubt in anticipation of development to come. While there are many places of a good or even excellent standard, unless it is real quiet and seclusion you seek, nearby Kampot remains a more practical option. 175 SOUTHERN CAMBODIA 8 KEP
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Cambodia & Laos
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Cambodia & Laos by Daniel White 1st
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CONTENTS LIST OF MAPS vii 1 THE BES
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8 SOUTHERN CAMBODIA 152 1 Sihanoukv
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LIST OF MAPS The Best Small Towns,
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HOW TO CONTACT US In researching th
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The Best of Cambodia & Laos The cou
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the world’s most rewarding journe
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MYANMAR Muang Sing (BURMA) Luang Na
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7 BEST TEMPLES & WATS • Angkor Wa
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Cambodia in Depth If ever a country
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Phnom Penh (see p. 83 for more on t
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was Mahayana, not part of the Thera
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keep Cambodia neutral in the confli
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Rouge leaders will be prompted to s
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As Hun Sen darkly quipped years lat
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place largely without violence, Cam
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high-rise residential developments
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5 CAMBODIA IN POPULAR CULTURE RECOM
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Wherever you are, stick only to bot
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Planning Your Trip to Cambodia With
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Bonn Pchum Ben. During this period,
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3 GETTING THERE & GETTING AROUND GE
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spend the night in Poipet, but this
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can be cold due to excessive air-co
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Come Armed with Singles We recommen
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the malarial mosquitoes are at thei
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are riding on a motorcycle, keep yo
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cater to travelers with disabilitie
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General Resources for Green Travel
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INTERNET In Cambodia, where you fin
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0 0 50 km 50 mi N Phumi Samraong Pr
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2 THE BEST OF LAOS IN 1 WEEK Althou
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Pak Lai Gulf of Thailand Mekong Mek
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Sao Market to shop for special Lao
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Founded in the mid-14th century by
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The Tonle Sap: The Heart of a Natio
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2 WHERE TO STAY There is a huge cho
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Mao Zedong Blvd. onireth Blvd. (217
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No. 227 St. 19. & 023/222-280. www.
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Hotel Scandinavia This relaxed offe
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Inexpensive Capitol Guesthouse The
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Mao Zedong Blvd. onireth Blvd. (217
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Phnom Penh’s Much-Loved Pachyderm
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completely punitive. They also have
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Le Jardin Café WESTERN As its name
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ao Zedong Blvd. onireth Blvd. (217)
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The Khmer Rouge on Trial As this bo
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SWIMMING & FITNESS Many top hotels
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5 DAY TRIPS OUTSIDE PHNOM PENH OUDO
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(& 023/211-534) and carries a simil
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The excellent Sovanna Phum Art Asso
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The ruins of the ancient city of An
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1 Airport (8 km) Siem Reap Phnom Pe
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10% VAT. Budget travelers are also
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Vithei Charles de Gaulle, Khum Svay
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combo and sinks set in unique overs
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fan). The courtyard area is a pictu
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Mandalay Inn One of the first thing
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NIGHTLIFE Angkor What? 28 Dead Fish
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Shinta Mani INTERNATIONAL Shinta Ma
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Taj Mahal NORTHERN INDIAN It has be
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Some Guidelines When Visiting Angko
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0 1st Level Vishnu’s victory over
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To To To Banteay Banteay Banteay Sr
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The Magic Hours at Angkor Wat The s
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Enter the temple from the west, the
Page 135 and 136: Westerners until a French researche
Page 137 and 138: Body Tune Spa, in the very heart of
Page 139 and 140: Colors of Cambodia Here’s a fun o
Page 141 and 142: A Dance for the Divine The royal cl
Page 143 and 144: APSARA DANCE Having spent the day l
Page 145 and 146: Battambang & Northern Cambodia From
Page 147 and 148: 0 0 0.25 km 2 DINING Bus Stop 10 Th
Page 149 and 150: either a car with a driver or a mot
Page 151 and 152: pleasant indeed with casual but sma
Page 153 and 154: its relaxed, open-air charm. The ty
Page 155 and 156: into a trip back on a small metal-a
Page 157 and 158: a mix of traditional Khmer ballads
Page 159 and 160: The Spiders of Skuon In the town of
Page 161 and 162: $10 but can be more during high sea
Page 163 and 164: all over by 10am. The Reclining Bud
Page 165 and 166: 1 3 4 2 5 7 6 8 10 8 11 12 9 15 14
Page 167 and 168: Ochheuteal Beach to Victory Beach c
Page 169 and 170: Beach Road Hotel Covering both the
Page 171 and 172: Koh Rong Beach. & 016/214-211. www.
Page 173 and 174: Snakehouse INTERNATIONAL Here’s a
Page 175 and 176: Cooking Courses If you want to lear
Page 177 and 178: ACCOMMODATIONS Champa Koh Kong Gues
Page 179 and 180: can take a motorcycle or car into t
Page 181 and 182: New Bridge Kampot 1 2 Prek Kampong
Page 183 and 184: also a more straightforward house w
Page 185: and a turnoff to a small waterfall
Page 189 and 190: WHERE TO DINE All the hotels and gu
Page 191 and 192: part in Lao culture; arguments are
Page 193 and 194: forces captured and sacked Xiang Do
Page 195 and 196: 1950, an offshoot of pro-Vietminh I
Page 197 and 198: CCHINA H I N A MYANMAR Muang Sing (
Page 199 and 200: visited places such as Savannakhet,
Page 201 and 202: There have been some tensions along
Page 203 and 204: Water in restaurants is safe to dri
Page 205 and 206: LAOS CALENDAR OF EVENTS For an exha
Page 207 and 208: 2 ENTRY REQUIREMENTS PASSPORTS A pa
Page 209 and 210: A simple river crossing connects Th
Page 211 and 212: will help your blood pressure to pl
Page 213 and 214: able to organize a car and driver f
Page 215 and 216: Although levels of HIV/AIDS are, at
Page 217 and 218: Prabang and Vientiane are geared mo
Page 219 and 220: monsoon forest, diverse wildlife po
Page 221 and 222: Telephone Dialing at a Glance • T
Page 223 and 224: also plenty of other shops and bout
Page 225 and 226: expensive. You will see them lined
Page 227 and 228: 1/4 mile 0 L A O S L A O S 0 0.25 k
Page 229 and 230: MODERATE Asian Pavilion Hotel Forme
Page 231 and 232: Riverine Hotel This old colonial vi
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Page 235 and 236: 1/4 mile 0 26 0 0.25 km Khoua Khoua
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favorites from home. They have subm
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Vientiane’s Street Fare The busy
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35 1/4 mile 0 4 34 0 0.25 km Khoua
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Wat Ong Teu Mahawihan Wat Ong Teu i
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start start 11 Khoua Khoua Luang Lu
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Organized Tours Most hotels, guesth
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Dokkhoun Handicrafts Mainly special
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has closed, going on until 2am in p
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ead in cafes and bakeries. You will
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GETTING THERE Vang Vieng is a smoot
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18 17 16 1 Bus Station Hospital Pos
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Vang Vieng Orchid This is an excell
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20m (66 ft.) from the main junction
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The Amazing Mountain Journey to Lua
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20 L A O S L A O S Luang Prabang Vi
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The Fate of the King Savang or Sisa
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Lao Speedboat Risks Alternatively y
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wood floors, and fashionable room d
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lush rice paddies and picturesque h
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great riverside location, although
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L A O S L A O S Luang Prabang Vient
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Lao-style crème brûlée, a custar
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75/76 Ban Xieng Mouane. & 071/212-2
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0 0 0.25 km 27 Old Stadium Phou Pho
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where a shrine of the royal spirit
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Make Merit Picture Sunday Mass at a
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during the reign of Sam Saen Thai.
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Its name translates as “golden ci
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1 2 3 4 5 6 7 Mount Phousi Wat Pua
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SHOPPING The central area of Luang
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Banks & Currency Exchange The Bank
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If you go by road it takes about 3
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with Western-style toilets and hot
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6 PAKBENG If you are taking the slo
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next to the post office. The airpor
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containing an oxygen generator in c
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Central Laos is rarely at the top o
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L A O S Vientiane Savannakhet 4 3 S
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Dinosaurs in Laos Quite strangely,
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ACCOMMODATIONS Hotel Riveria 1 Inth
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Souksomboun Hotel This hotel is sim
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Southern Laos Southern Laos is ofte
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DINING Delta Coffee Shop and Restau
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Champasak Palace Hotel This hotel w
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More Choice Eats in Pakse There are
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WHERE TO STAY & DINE In Champasak,
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(snake) Kaliya, the god Indra ridin
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Getting There Boats leave Ban Nakas
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Fast Facts 1 FAST FACTS: CAMBODIA A
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There is no Canadian Embassy in Lao
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Khmer & Lao Glossary 1 THE KHMER LA
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HOTEL English Khmer Do you have any
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English Lao Call a doctor Toh-ha ta
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GENERAL INDEX AARP, 43, 204 Accommo
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Food stores and markets, Vientiane,
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Pak Ou Caves, 280 Pakse, 307-314 Pa
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Tham Chang (near Vang Vieng), 250 T
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Pavillon Indochine (Siem Reap), 102
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The Red Piano (Siem Reap), 108 Red
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MYANMAR MMYANMAR Y A N M A R (BURMA
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