The Best of Cambodia & Laos

and a turnoff to a small waterfall (not worth it in dry season), and another leg leading to
the main hotel compound.
One can only imagine what life was like in this opulent little casino. You can climb to
the top of the old colonial edifice for great views. Ask for a map when you pass through
the entrance gates at the bottom. There’s a small church, a school, post office, and other
minor residential buildings, as well as an old worn-out Vietnamese gun emplacement.
There are rustic accommodations available, too. Ask park officers for information.
The entrance fee was $5 before closure and the gate was open from dawn to dusk. This
too may change. The whole trip takes half a day. The turnoff to the mountaintop is 8km
(5 miles) from Kampot to the east and 95km (59 miles) from Sihanoukville. The road
up to the top from the main road is 32km (20 miles) of twisting and turning.
Caves & Waterfalls
The whole area around Kampot is dotted with limestone mountains rising steeply out of
the deep green of the rice fields. Some of these contain caves with bizarre rock formations
and Buddhist shrines. Caves require good shoes and a flashlight. Phnom Chhork is a place
of stalactites and stalagmites and small religious structures from the pre–Angkorian Funan
era. There are two caves. If you look closely at the entrance of Cave One, you will see
limestone formations resembling elephants. The entrance to Cave Two is about 300m (984
ft.) from Cave One. There are fewer formations, but it is quite deep, requiring quite a lot
of clambering if you choose to attempt it. Phnom Sla Ta’aun contains a less interesting
cave but it is worth it for the climb, which is interesting. Phnom Sasear is known as the
“White Elephant Cave” because of the shape of a rock formation at the base of the mountain.
It is next to a pagoda, and once up the steps on the outcrop you will get some good
views of the countryside, especially during the rainy season when the vistas will be lush and
green. If you cross the river and drive north for 3.2km (2 miles) you reach the scenic area
of Tek Chhou falls. They are not really spectacular since they don’t fall very far, but it is a
very pleasant area by the river to enjoy a sandwich and a cold beer. It is very popular with
locals on a Sunday afternoon when the sun is shining. To see the caves and waterfalls, hire
a guide or a motodup who knows where he is going; they are tricky to find on your own.
Rabbit Island
Twenty to 40 minutes by local boat from Kep is Rabbit Island. A place of white sandy
beaches and coconut palms, it is an idyllic day trip from either Kampot or Kep. Although
the waters are clear there is no coral, but don’t let that put you off donning a mask and
flippers. Rabbit Island is a place of psychedelic fish. There are some beach bars in which
you can stay the night for about $10, though conditions are very basic. Seafood here is
great. Most likely when you order crab on Rabbit Island, your restaurateur will wade out
into the tepid ocean and haul your lunch directly from one of the crab pots. It doesn’t
come fresher than that. A boat for the return trip costs $20. Guesthouses offer a package
for $7, but you won’t get to pick your own boat, beach, and crab buddies.
SHOPPING
Kampot is a place with next to zero shopping opportunities, but there is one very good
bookshop run by a very friendly Khmer couple. Kepler’s Kampot Books (open daily
8am–8pm) is situated next to the Old market near the Honey Bar. They have some titles
on history and culture in Indochina that others around the country seem not to. In the
same area is the new Kampot Souvenirs and Handicraft shop (open daily 8am–8pm).
Their selection of goods is growing and they are worth a browse.
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KAMPOT