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Snakehouse INTERNATIONAL Here’s a fun night out. It’s part restaurant, part<br />
jungle menagerie with snakes, turtles, and crocs. <strong>The</strong> snakes are all correctly labeled and<br />
range in size from tiny, venomous little beasts to mighty, murderous pythons acting ever<br />
so languid. <strong>The</strong> food is good (the animals are for viewing, not eating). Russian owned<br />
and managed (this being the Russian enclave), Snakehouse serves a good selection <strong>of</strong> local<br />
dishes and standard international fare, anything from spaghetti to steak and sandwiches.<br />
<strong>The</strong> place is up on a hill above town and makes for a fun evening.<br />
Soviet St., on the hilltop near Victory Beach. & 012/673-805. Main courses $4–$9. No credit cards. Daily<br />
8am–11pm.<br />
Starfish Café INTERNATIONAL Set up as an NGO to train and employ people<br />
with physical disabilities, many <strong>of</strong> whom are victims <strong>of</strong> land mines, the Starfish Café<br />
gives hope to a group <strong>of</strong> people who are systematically shunned by Khmer society. <strong>The</strong><br />
place has been around since 2001 and <strong>of</strong>fers a time-tested formula <strong>of</strong> good sandwiches,<br />
baked goods, and light local fare. <strong>The</strong> place funds local literacy programs and serves as a<br />
drop-in point for clients <strong>of</strong> the Starfish Project (see their website for more information).<br />
<strong>The</strong> friendly counter staff can <strong>of</strong>fer good information about local tours and travel.<br />
<strong>The</strong>re’s an upstairs reading area as well as a shaded courtyard. <strong>The</strong>y sell popular T-shirts<br />
advertising the cafe as well as products from the Snar Dai Project, which sells goods made<br />
by mothers <strong>of</strong> street kids.<br />
Just behind the Samudera Market at the town center. & 012/952-011. www.starfishcambodia.org. Main<br />
courses $3–$4.50. No credit cards. Daily 7am–6pm.<br />
WHAT TO SEE & DO<br />
Diving & Snorkeling<br />
<strong>The</strong>re are excellent diving opportunities around Sihanoukville and the surrounding<br />
islands. Reefs encrusted with coral are a feature <strong>of</strong> nearby islands, supporting an abundance<br />
<strong>of</strong> marine life including stingrays, moray eels, dolphins, and even the odd whale.<br />
<strong>The</strong> waters <strong>of</strong>f Sihanoukville are warm (consistently 81°F–88°F/27°C–31°C) and though<br />
visibility can be quite low during the height <strong>of</strong> rainy season, in the diving season from<br />
October to June it ranges from 10 to 25m (33–82 ft.). First-rate dive sites can be found<br />
around the islands such as Koh Rung Samloem and Koh Kon, all within a 2-hour boat<br />
journey. <strong>The</strong> very best sites are at Koh Tang, Koh Prins, and Condor Reef and are 4 to 6<br />
hours away. <strong>The</strong>re are now a number <strong>of</strong> dive shops in Sihanoukville, including those that<br />
are PADI authorized. In addition to organized dives they <strong>of</strong>fer introductory courses for<br />
beginners. Most <strong>of</strong> the islands have uninhabited sandy beaches where divers can relax<br />
between outings.<br />
Two hours away, Koh Rung Samloem is the best nearby island to Sihanoukville and<br />
can be done as day trip. <strong>The</strong> island is made up <strong>of</strong> a small fishing village, three principal<br />
beaches, and several minor ones, all <strong>of</strong> which are almost completely uninhabited, including<br />
some sheltered ones on the north side close to Koh Kon. Both islands feature rocky<br />
reefs and go to depths <strong>of</strong> 18m (59 ft.). As with all <strong>of</strong> the nearby islands, the best diving<br />
and visibility is on the west side. Koh Kon is a small island to the north <strong>of</strong> Koh Rung<br />
Samloem and is home to rocky, coral outcrops. Koh Tang, Koh Prins, and Poulou Wai<br />
to the southwest <strong>of</strong> Sihanoukville <strong>of</strong>fer some <strong>of</strong> the best scuba diving waters in the area<br />
and take 4 to 8 hours to reach, requiring an overnight stay. <strong>The</strong> area has reefs with depths<br />
<strong>of</strong> 15 to 40m (49–131 ft.) and much better visibility than reefs closer to land. Koh Prins<br />
also has two shipwrecks to the northwest. Koh Tang was the scene <strong>of</strong> “Mayaguez<br />
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SOUTHERN CAMBODIA 8<br />
SIHANOUKVILLE