The Best of Cambodia & Laos

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SOUTHERN CAMBODIA
8
SIHANOUKVILLE
Les Feuilles FRENCH Les Feuilles is set 2 blocks back from the southern end of
Ochheuteal Beach and prepares excellent provincial French food. The beefsteak is highly
recommended. Les Feuilles is also a popular meeting place for Sihanoukville’s large
French expat community—a place to shrug shoulders in the nicest of surroundings.
23 Tola St. (south end). & 034/933-910. Main courses $4.50–$7. V. Daily 7:30am–10pm.
Maharajah INDIAN Situated right next door to Paco’s, Maharajahs offers an array
of excellent Indian food—particularly the delicious South Indian tali. This staple meal
of rice, dal, chutneys, chapatti, curd, and curry is light, wholesome, Indian food at its
best. The North Indian palak paneer, or spinach curry with cheese, is also a surefire winner
and, importantly, is not too oily. Their menu is a reasonably comprehensive culinary
journey from Kashmir at the start of the Himalaya, to Kanyakumari in the deep south
of Tamil Nadu. What a delicious journey it is.
Weather Station Hill on Ekareach St. & 015/966-221.. Main courses $2.50–$4. Daily 11am–11pm.
Mick and Craig’s WESTERN These guys are the real originals in Sihanoukville,
and backpackers and expats alike flock here. Some of the best food in town is here, served
in a casual open-air setup with good tunes, a busy bar, and a billiards area. You can sign
up for trips with their in-house eco-tour company, pick up a book in their casual book
corner, or even stay in their new guesthouse. They offer lots of favorites from home:
pizza, sandwiches made with bread baked on-site, snacks like nachos and potato skins,
steaks, bangers and mash (sausage with mashed potatoes), grilled fish, and good veggie
offerings, including an excellent veggie burger, as well as lots of good Khmer dishes. Dessert
is apple crumble or ice cream. Extensive breakfasts are the best cure for that Sihanoukville
hangover: muesli and fruit or the full-on greasy fry-up so beloved by the
English.
Just adjacent to the Golden Lion Traffic circle at the head of the road leading to Serendipity Beach.
& 012/727-740. Main courses $5–$9. No credit cards. Daily 7am–11pm.
Paco’s SPANISH/VIETNAMESE What do Spanish and Vietnamese food have
in common? The answer, of course, is absolutely nothing—except that here at Paco’s the
owners are a Spanish/Vietnamese couple who decided to pool culinary resources to good
effect. Situated in the now slightly run-down and sleazy area of Victory Hill, Paco’s is
worth the journey even if you are staying over on Ochheuteal. The seafood paella is
fantastic, but you’ll need at least two to enjoy. There are plenty of tapas options, and a
mixture of two or three comprises a pretty good meal in itself. The range of Vietnamese
dishes on offer may make a potentially anarchic combination if you already got talked
into the Rioja, but it is very, very good. The spring rolls stand out.
Weather Station Hill on Ekareach St. & 092/673-911. Main courses $4–$8. Daily 9am–11pm.
Pim’s WESTERN Run by a very friendly Dutch couple, Pim’s is the perfect
place for a family meal. There is plenty of space for the kids to run around in a safe
environment. Meanwhile, you can test your putting skills on the minigolf course in the
back (or, indeed, play table tennis or petanque—it’s all here). The food is a delicious mix
of Western barbecue and some Khmer. The fall-off-the-bone spareribs are delicious and
the slow-roasted beef is sublime. It is a meaty kind of place.
23 Tola St. (north end). & 017/969-023. www.pimssihanoukville.com. Main courses $4–$7. No credit
cards. Daily 8am–1:30am.