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160<br />
SOUTHERN CAMBODIA<br />
8<br />
SIHANOUKVILLE<br />
Les Feuilles FRENCH Les Feuilles is set 2 blocks back from the southern end <strong>of</strong><br />
Ochheuteal Beach and prepares excellent provincial French food. <strong>The</strong> beefsteak is highly<br />
recommended. Les Feuilles is also a popular meeting place for Sihanoukville’s large<br />
French expat community—a place to shrug shoulders in the nicest <strong>of</strong> surroundings.<br />
23 Tola St. (south end). & 034/933-910. Main courses $4.50–$7. V. Daily 7:30am–10pm.<br />
Maharajah INDIAN Situated right next door to Paco’s, Maharajahs <strong>of</strong>fers an array<br />
<strong>of</strong> excellent Indian food—particularly the delicious South Indian tali. This staple meal<br />
<strong>of</strong> rice, dal, chutneys, chapatti, curd, and curry is light, wholesome, Indian food at its<br />
best. <strong>The</strong> North Indian palak paneer, or spinach curry with cheese, is also a surefire winner<br />
and, importantly, is not too oily. <strong>The</strong>ir menu is a reasonably comprehensive culinary<br />
journey from Kashmir at the start <strong>of</strong> the Himalaya, to Kanyakumari in the deep south<br />
<strong>of</strong> Tamil Nadu. What a delicious journey it is.<br />
Weather Station Hill on Ekareach St. & 015/966-221.. Main courses $2.50–$4. Daily 11am–11pm.<br />
Mick and Craig’s WESTERN <strong>The</strong>se guys are the real originals in Sihanoukville,<br />
and backpackers and expats alike flock here. Some <strong>of</strong> the best food in town is here, served<br />
in a casual open-air setup with good tunes, a busy bar, and a billiards area. You can sign<br />
up for trips with their in-house eco-tour company, pick up a book in their casual book<br />
corner, or even stay in their new guesthouse. <strong>The</strong>y <strong>of</strong>fer lots <strong>of</strong> favorites from home:<br />
pizza, sandwiches made with bread baked on-site, snacks like nachos and potato skins,<br />
steaks, bangers and mash (sausage with mashed potatoes), grilled fish, and good veggie<br />
<strong>of</strong>ferings, including an excellent veggie burger, as well as lots <strong>of</strong> good Khmer dishes. Dessert<br />
is apple crumble or ice cream. Extensive breakfasts are the best cure for that Sihanoukville<br />
hangover: muesli and fruit or the full-on greasy fry-up so beloved by the<br />
English.<br />
Just adjacent to the Golden Lion Traffic circle at the head <strong>of</strong> the road leading to Serendipity Beach.<br />
& 012/727-740. Main courses $5–$9. No credit cards. Daily 7am–11pm.<br />
Paco’s SPANISH/VIETNAMESE What do Spanish and Vietnamese food have<br />
in common? <strong>The</strong> answer, <strong>of</strong> course, is absolutely nothing—except that here at Paco’s the<br />
owners are a Spanish/Vietnamese couple who decided to pool culinary resources to good<br />
effect. Situated in the now slightly run-down and sleazy area <strong>of</strong> Victory Hill, Paco’s is<br />
worth the journey even if you are staying over on Ochheuteal. <strong>The</strong> seafood paella is<br />
fantastic, but you’ll need at least two to enjoy. <strong>The</strong>re are plenty <strong>of</strong> tapas options, and a<br />
mixture <strong>of</strong> two or three comprises a pretty good meal in itself. <strong>The</strong> range <strong>of</strong> Vietnamese<br />
dishes on <strong>of</strong>fer may make a potentially anarchic combination if you already got talked<br />
into the Rioja, but it is very, very good. <strong>The</strong> spring rolls stand out.<br />
Weather Station Hill on Ekareach St. & 092/673-911. Main courses $4–$8. Daily 9am–11pm.<br />
Pim’s WESTERN Run by a very friendly Dutch couple, Pim’s is the perfect<br />
place for a family meal. <strong>The</strong>re is plenty <strong>of</strong> space for the kids to run around in a safe<br />
environment. Meanwhile, you can test your putting skills on the minigolf course in the<br />
back (or, indeed, play table tennis or petanque—it’s all here). <strong>The</strong> food is a delicious mix<br />
<strong>of</strong> Western barbecue and some Khmer. <strong>The</strong> fall-<strong>of</strong>f-the-bone spareribs are delicious and<br />
the slow-roasted beef is sublime. It is a meaty kind <strong>of</strong> place.<br />
23 Tola St. (north end). & 017/969-023. www.pimssihanoukville.com. Main courses $4–$7. No credit<br />
cards. Daily 8am–1:30am.