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The Best of Cambodia & Laos

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Koh Rong Beach. & 016/214-211. www.lazybeachcambodia.com. $30 bungalow (sleeps up to 4). Amenities:<br />

Restaurant; bar.<br />

WHERE TO DINE<br />

Dining in Sihanoukville means mostly good seafood for little cash, and there are lots <strong>of</strong><br />

ocean-side budget stops. <strong>The</strong>y mainly serve the same seafood barbecue with barracuda,<br />

shrimp, and baked potato or rice for a standard $3. It may be uniform, but it is also<br />

delicious. Other eateries <strong>of</strong> all sorts are spread around town and near all the beaches.<br />

Bamboo Light Café SRI LANKAN Like their popular restaurant in Kampot, the<br />

people at Bamboo Light serve great Sri Lankan fare including hot curries (or tempered<br />

to your taste) with chapatti or nan bread, as well as Sri Lankan Kottu roti, a dish <strong>of</strong> roti<br />

pancake mashed up with potato, curry, and vegetable. Everything is delicious, and they<br />

can even put together a good packed lunch for any day trips.<br />

78 Ekareach St., in the downtown area. & 012/925-707. Main courses $2.50–$4. No credit cards. Daily<br />

7am–10pm.<br />

Cantina Del Mar MEXICAN Sister to the riverfront Cantina in Phnom<br />

Penh, Cantina del Mar <strong>of</strong>fers delicious fish tacos and tostadas in a beachfront house on<br />

glorious Otres beach. <strong>The</strong> road to Otres is a rough one from nearby Ochheuteal, but is<br />

worth the trek. <strong>The</strong> central recipe at Cantina de Mar consists <strong>of</strong> beautiful white sand,<br />

gleaming blue sea, a glorious sunset, and one <strong>of</strong> the best margaritas you will find in Asia.<br />

This is a total winner. That is before you have even ordered your food, when it all gets<br />

even better. Expect delicious seafood using the freshest <strong>of</strong> ingredients. Cantina Del Mar<br />

is the perfect complement to the most exquisite <strong>of</strong> tropical sunsets.<br />

Otres Beach. & 023/222-502. www.cantinacambodia.com. Main courses $4.25–$6.50. Fri–Sun 3–11pm.<br />

Happa Restaurant and Wine Bar JAPANESE Serving teppanyaki-style cuisine<br />

(the Japanese art <strong>of</strong> cooking on the iron skillet), Happa’s iron skillet sits centrally in the<br />

restaurant where you can see your food being prepared. You can order full meals or order<br />

a la carte small, very reasonably priced portions <strong>of</strong> meats, veggies, and t<strong>of</strong>u prepared in a<br />

selection <strong>of</strong> mouthwatering special sauces: miso-sesame, garlic-ginger, teriyaki, appleonion,<br />

and a <strong>Cambodia</strong>n sauce called kroeng. <strong>The</strong> lamb kabobs in rosemary are absolutely<br />

delicious and best accompanied by an icy Asahi beer. <strong>The</strong>re is also a good wine<br />

selection by the glass and bottle.<br />

Road to Serendipity. & 034/934-380. Main courses $4–$7. MC, V. Daily 5:30pm–midnight.<br />

Holy Cow WESTERN/KHMER Situated in an old Khmer house on the busy road<br />

from Ochheuteal to town, Holy Cow is a laid-back restaurant/cafe serving a mixture <strong>of</strong><br />

European and Khmer dishes. This restaurant houses a bar on the first floor with a relaxed<br />

and friendly feel. <strong>The</strong> upstairs dining area features balconies overlooking the garden<br />

bordering the busy road beyond. <strong>The</strong> dishes are thoughtfully presented, though portions<br />

are not huge. <strong>The</strong> chicken in Kampot pepper with mashed potatoes is good, as are the<br />

sandwiches. <strong>The</strong> music played is eclectic—when we were there it went from traditional<br />

Khmer sounds to the Mississippi blues <strong>of</strong> Robert Johnson (oddly enough, they have quite<br />

a lot in common).<br />

Ekareach St. btw. Ochheuteal and town. & 012/478-510. www.holycowcambodia.com. Main courses<br />

$4–$6. Daily 9:30am–11pm.<br />

159<br />

SOUTHERN CAMBODIA 8<br />

SIHANOUKVILLE

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