The Best of Cambodia & Laos

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4 THE BEST OF CAMBODIA & LAOS 1 BEST MODERATELY PRICED ACCOMMODATIONS 4 BEST LUXURY ACCOMMODATIONS • Raffles Hotel Le Royal, Phnom Penh (& 023/981-888; www.raffles.com): Oozing colonial charm, Le Royal is a taste of prewar Indochina at its most authentic. It offers relaxed luxury in elegant Art Deco surroundings. See p. 64. • Amansara Resort, Siem Reap (& 063/ 760-333; www.amanresorts.com): Aman junkies fly around the world just to stay at these transcendent resorts, and it is easy to see why. Prices are stratospheric, but you get what you pay for: The tranquillity and service are unparalleled. The brand-new Amantaka resort in Luang Prabang, set to open as this guide went to press, promises more of the same. See p. 97. • Raffles Grand Hotel d’Angkor, Siem Reap (& 063/963-888; www.raffles. com): As a base from which to explore the splendors of Angkor, the Grand Hotel d’Angkor is unrivaled for its languid tranquillity complemented by excellent customer service. See p. 99. • Victoria Angkor Hotel, Siem Reap (& 063/760-428; www.victoriahotelsasia.com): This classy hotel has every • Villa Lanka Hotel, Phnom Penh (& 023/726-771; www.villalangka. com): Intimate and leafy, Villa Lanka is a haven at the heart of this busiest of cities—a place to recharge your batteries by the pool. It is also a great choice if you have kids in tow. See p. 69. • Golden Banana, Siem Reap (& 012/ 855-366; www.golden-banana.com): The gay-friendly, everyone’s-welcome Golden Banana is a favorite among Frommer’s staffers. The friendly, relaxed modern convenience, and seamlessly merges the practical with the elegant. See p. 100. • Settha Palace Hotel, Vientiane (& 021/ 217-581; www.setthapalace.com): This gem of a hotel is unique in every way with an unruffled, leafy calm that makes it one of the finest hotels in all of Southeast Asia. It is beautifully eccentric. See p. 214. • La Residence Phou Vao, Luang Prabang (& 071/212-530; www.residence phouvao.com): Set on a hill overlooking Luang Prabang, this splendid offering could best be described as a palace. The majesty of the views is matched only by the luxury from which you survey them. See p. 259. • Mekong Riverview Hotel, Luang Prabang (& 071/254-900; www.mekongriverview.com): Stylish but cozy, the Mekong River View is a new hotel situated near the beautiful Wat Xieng Thong. It is the perfect place from which to make excursions to the nearby architectural glories of Luang Prabang while enjoying the peace of the Mekong. See p. 260. 5 BEST MODERATELY PRICED ACCOMMODATIONS vibe is contagious, and the beautiful pool and rooms come at a very affordable price. See p. 102. • Viroth’s Hotel, Siem Reap (& 063/ 761-720; www.viroth-hotel.com): This boutique affair is an airy and modern alternative to the predominantly retro style of many hotels in Siem Reap. See p. 103. • Le Manguiers, Kampot (& 012/330- 050): A unique and blissful hideaway, the property resembles a small village
MYANMAR Muang Sing (BURMA) Luang Nam Tha Huay Xai Mohan MYANMAR Muang Sing (BURMA) Boten Luang Nam Tha Nong Kiaow Huay Xai Mohan Boten 1 Pak Ou Chiang Khong The Best Small Towns, Temples & Markets Pakbeng Plain of 3 5 Jars Luang Prabang 34 Bangkok Sainyabuli Pak Lai Mekong Mekong Vang Vieng Phon Hong Vientiane Nam Nam BEST TEMPLES Angkor Wat 9 Udon Thani The Bayon 10 Phra Thom 11 Wat Phou (Champasak) 8 Wat Xieng Tong 3 Wat Pa Huak 4 BEST MARKETS Talat Sao (Vientiane) 6 Night Market (Luang Nakhon NakhonPrabang) 5 Psar Tuol Tom Ratchasima Pong 15 Psar Chas (Siem Reap) 12 Gulf of Thailand Gulf of Thailand SMALL TOWNS & VILLAGES Battambang 13 Kompong Chnang 14 Kampot 16 Nong Kiaow 1 Tha Khek 7 Vieng Xai 2 Nam Nam Ou Ou 56 Nam Nam Seuang Seuang Ngum Ngum Ang Ang Nam Nam Ngum Ngum 13 Battambang VIETNAM V I E T N A M Dien Bien Phu Phonsavan LAOS L A O S Pakxan Vieng Xai Mekong Mekong Nakhon Phanom THAILAND T H A I L A N D Kampot 16 Sam Neua 2 Nong Haet 10 11 12 Siem Reap 0 Vinh 7 Tha Khek Se Se Noi Noi 13 CAMBODIA C A M B O D I A Hanoi Savannakhet Xepon Mukdahan Lao Phim Bao 9 14 Kompong Chnang Kep Ubon Ratchathani Salavan Chong Mek 8 Champasak Pakse Pathum Phon 15 Voeung Kam Phnom Penh 0 100 km 100 mi Haiphong Gulf Gulf of Tonkin of Tonkin Hue VVIETNAM I E T N A M 5 THE BEST OF CAMBODIA & LAOS 1 BEST MODERATELY PRICED ACCOMMODATIONS
Page 1 and 2: Cambodia & Laos
Page 3 and 4: Cambodia & Laos by Daniel White 1st
Page 5 and 6: CONTENTS LIST OF MAPS vii 1 THE BES
Page 7 and 8: 8 SOUTHERN CAMBODIA 152 1 Sihanoukv
Page 9 and 10: LIST OF MAPS The Best Small Towns,
Page 11 and 12: HOW TO CONTACT US In researching th
Page 13 and 14: The Best of Cambodia & Laos The cou
Page 15: the world’s most rewarding journe
Page 19 and 20: 7 BEST TEMPLES & WATS • Angkor Wa
Page 21 and 22: Cambodia in Depth If ever a country
Page 23 and 24: Phnom Penh (see p. 83 for more on t
Page 25 and 26: was Mahayana, not part of the Thera
Page 27 and 28: keep Cambodia neutral in the confli
Page 29 and 30: Rouge leaders will be prompted to s
Page 31 and 32: As Hun Sen darkly quipped years lat
Page 33 and 34: place largely without violence, Cam
Page 35 and 36: high-rise residential developments
Page 37 and 38: 5 CAMBODIA IN POPULAR CULTURE RECOM
Page 39 and 40: Wherever you are, stick only to bot
Page 41 and 42: Planning Your Trip to Cambodia With
Page 43 and 44: Bonn Pchum Ben. During this period,
Page 45 and 46: 3 GETTING THERE & GETTING AROUND GE
Page 47 and 48: spend the night in Poipet, but this
Page 49 and 50: can be cold due to excessive air-co
Page 51 and 52: Come Armed with Singles We recommen
Page 53 and 54: the malarial mosquitoes are at thei
Page 55 and 56: are riding on a motorcycle, keep yo
Page 57 and 58: cater to travelers with disabilitie
Page 59 and 60: General Resources for Green Travel
Page 61 and 62: INTERNET In Cambodia, where you fin
Page 63 and 64: 0 0 50 km 50 mi N Phumi Samraong Pr
Page 65 and 66: 2 THE BEST OF LAOS IN 1 WEEK Althou
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Pak Lai Gulf of Thailand Mekong Mek
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Sao Market to shop for special Lao
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Founded in the mid-14th century by
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The Tonle Sap: The Heart of a Natio
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2 WHERE TO STAY There is a huge cho
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Mao Zedong Blvd. onireth Blvd. (217
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No. 227 St. 19. & 023/222-280. www.
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Hotel Scandinavia This relaxed offe
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Inexpensive Capitol Guesthouse The
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Mao Zedong Blvd. onireth Blvd. (217
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Phnom Penh’s Much-Loved Pachyderm
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completely punitive. They also have
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Le Jardin Café WESTERN As its name
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ao Zedong Blvd. onireth Blvd. (217)
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The Khmer Rouge on Trial As this bo
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SWIMMING & FITNESS Many top hotels
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5 DAY TRIPS OUTSIDE PHNOM PENH OUDO
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(& 023/211-534) and carries a simil
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The excellent Sovanna Phum Art Asso
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The ruins of the ancient city of An
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1 Airport (8 km) Siem Reap Phnom Pe
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10% VAT. Budget travelers are also
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Vithei Charles de Gaulle, Khum Svay
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combo and sinks set in unique overs
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fan). The courtyard area is a pictu
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Mandalay Inn One of the first thing
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NIGHTLIFE Angkor What? 28 Dead Fish
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Shinta Mani INTERNATIONAL Shinta Ma
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Taj Mahal NORTHERN INDIAN It has be
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Some Guidelines When Visiting Angko
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0 1st Level Vishnu’s victory over
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To To To Banteay Banteay Banteay Sr
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The Magic Hours at Angkor Wat The s
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Enter the temple from the west, the
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Westerners until a French researche
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Body Tune Spa, in the very heart of
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Colors of Cambodia Here’s a fun o
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A Dance for the Divine The royal cl
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APSARA DANCE Having spent the day l
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Battambang & Northern Cambodia From
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0 0 0.25 km 2 DINING Bus Stop 10 Th
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either a car with a driver or a mot
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pleasant indeed with casual but sma
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its relaxed, open-air charm. The ty
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into a trip back on a small metal-a
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a mix of traditional Khmer ballads
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The Spiders of Skuon In the town of
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$10 but can be more during high sea
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all over by 10am. The Reclining Bud
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1 3 4 2 5 7 6 8 10 8 11 12 9 15 14
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Ochheuteal Beach to Victory Beach c
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Beach Road Hotel Covering both the
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Koh Rong Beach. & 016/214-211. www.
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Snakehouse INTERNATIONAL Here’s a
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Cooking Courses If you want to lear
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ACCOMMODATIONS Champa Koh Kong Gues
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can take a motorcycle or car into t
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New Bridge Kampot 1 2 Prek Kampong
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also a more straightforward house w
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and a turnoff to a small waterfall
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Information Post Office 3 2 Kep Bea
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WHERE TO DINE All the hotels and gu
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part in Lao culture; arguments are
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forces captured and sacked Xiang Do
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1950, an offshoot of pro-Vietminh I
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CCHINA H I N A MYANMAR Muang Sing (
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visited places such as Savannakhet,
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There have been some tensions along
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Water in restaurants is safe to dri
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LAOS CALENDAR OF EVENTS For an exha
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2 ENTRY REQUIREMENTS PASSPORTS A pa
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A simple river crossing connects Th
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will help your blood pressure to pl
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able to organize a car and driver f
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Although levels of HIV/AIDS are, at
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Prabang and Vientiane are geared mo
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monsoon forest, diverse wildlife po
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Telephone Dialing at a Glance • T
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also plenty of other shops and bout
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expensive. You will see them lined
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1/4 mile 0 L A O S L A O S 0 0.25 k
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MODERATE Asian Pavilion Hotel Forme
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Riverine Hotel This old colonial vi
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37-01 Nokeo Khoummane Rd. & 021/262
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1/4 mile 0 26 0 0.25 km Khoua Khoua
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favorites from home. They have subm
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Vientiane’s Street Fare The busy
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35 1/4 mile 0 4 34 0 0.25 km Khoua
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Wat Ong Teu Mahawihan Wat Ong Teu i
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start start 11 Khoua Khoua Luang Lu
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Organized Tours Most hotels, guesth
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Dokkhoun Handicrafts Mainly special
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has closed, going on until 2am in p
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ead in cafes and bakeries. You will
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GETTING THERE Vang Vieng is a smoot
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18 17 16 1 Bus Station Hospital Pos
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Vang Vieng Orchid This is an excell
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20m (66 ft.) from the main junction
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The Amazing Mountain Journey to Lua
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20 L A O S L A O S Luang Prabang Vi
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The Fate of the King Savang or Sisa
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Lao Speedboat Risks Alternatively y
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wood floors, and fashionable room d
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lush rice paddies and picturesque h
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great riverside location, although
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L A O S L A O S Luang Prabang Vient
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Lao-style crème brûlée, a custar
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75/76 Ban Xieng Mouane. & 071/212-2
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0 0 0.25 km 27 Old Stadium Phou Pho
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where a shrine of the royal spirit
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Make Merit Picture Sunday Mass at a
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during the reign of Sam Saen Thai.
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Its name translates as “golden ci
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1 2 3 4 5 6 7 Mount Phousi Wat Pua
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SHOPPING The central area of Luang
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Banks & Currency Exchange The Bank
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If you go by road it takes about 3
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with Western-style toilets and hot
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6 PAKBENG If you are taking the slo
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next to the post office. The airpor
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containing an oxygen generator in c
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Central Laos is rarely at the top o
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L A O S Vientiane Savannakhet 4 3 S
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Dinosaurs in Laos Quite strangely,
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ACCOMMODATIONS Hotel Riveria 1 Inth
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Souksomboun Hotel This hotel is sim
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Southern Laos Southern Laos is ofte
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DINING Delta Coffee Shop and Restau
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Champasak Palace Hotel This hotel w
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More Choice Eats in Pakse There are
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WHERE TO STAY & DINE In Champasak,
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(snake) Kaliya, the god Indra ridin
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Getting There Boats leave Ban Nakas
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Fast Facts 1 FAST FACTS: CAMBODIA A
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There is no Canadian Embassy in Lao
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Khmer & Lao Glossary 1 THE KHMER LA
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HOTEL English Khmer Do you have any
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English Lao Call a doctor Toh-ha ta
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GENERAL INDEX AARP, 43, 204 Accommo
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Food stores and markets, Vientiane,
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Pak Ou Caves, 280 Pakse, 307-314 Pa
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Tham Chang (near Vang Vieng), 250 T
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Pavillon Indochine (Siem Reap), 102
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The Red Piano (Siem Reap), 108 Red
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MYANMAR MMYANMAR Y A N M A R (BURMA
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