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The Best of Cambodia & Laos

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Beach Road Hotel Covering both the low midrange and the budget categories,<br />

Beach Road is central to the emerging nightlife area on the road to Serendipity and is a<br />

place that aims to tick all the boxes and succeeds with style. <strong>The</strong> rooms are sparkling and<br />

disarmingly fashionable in a way that doesn’t cloy. <strong>The</strong>re is a nod to the boutique aesthetic<br />

with a touch <strong>of</strong> draped traditional silk and vessel washbasins but it is in no way<br />

overdone. <strong>The</strong> rooms are situated around a courtyard with a pool in a slightly alarming<br />

amphitheater style, but it does have a quiet and sheltered feel. <strong>The</strong>re is a lively attached<br />

restaurant and bar, and you are also next to the weirdly wonderful Top Cat Cinema if<br />

you fancy watching a movie or playing X-box on a truly enormous screen.<br />

Road to Serendipity. & 017/827-677. www.beachroad-hotel.com. 80 units. $10 double fan; $15 double<br />

A/C; $25 deluxe. MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; Wi-Fi. In room: A/C, TV, fridge.<br />

Cloud 9 Bungalows <strong>The</strong> urge to greet the management <strong>of</strong> this charming, jungly<br />

option with the words “Me Tarzan. You Jane” is tempered only by the fact that he is<br />

German and has a handlebar mustache. <strong>The</strong> property gives will make you feel like you’re<br />

deep in the jungle and roughing it in the wildlife, yet while providing all modern conveniences<br />

and friendly, family service. <strong>The</strong> rustic bungalows in leafy surroundings afford<br />

good views <strong>of</strong> the ocean. <strong>The</strong>y are equipped with mosquito nets and fans. Eats are a<br />

gentle stroll down the hill to the beachside restaurant.<br />

Serendipity Beach. & 012/479-365. www.cloud9bungalows.com. 7 units. $10–$35 double. No credit<br />

cards. Amenities: Restaurant; Internet; Wi-Fi.<br />

Markara Guest House This is one <strong>of</strong> the best budget options in Sihanoukville<br />

and is <strong>of</strong>ten full. Even the cheaper fan rooms are large and spotless and have a brand-new<br />

large-screen TV. <strong>The</strong> staff is very helpful and run a smooth travel agency operation without<br />

being on the sell or in your face. <strong>The</strong> manager speaks very good English and very<br />

elegant French. <strong>The</strong>y rent out well-maintained motorcycles and also have an Internet cafe<br />

with machines that are not totally consumed with spyware and viruses—unusual for<br />

Sihanoukville. <strong>The</strong> beach is just across the road and the Markara <strong>of</strong>fers free beach mats.<br />

All in all the Markara is a very friendly and well-run operation.<br />

14 Mithona St. (south end <strong>of</strong> Ochheuteal Beach). & 034/933-448. 41 units. $7 double fan; $10–$15<br />

double A/C; $22 double with balcony. Amenities: Restaurant; Internet; Wi-Fi (not in rooms). In room: A/C,<br />

TV, fridge.<br />

Malibu Bungalows Owned and operated by the friendly Ms. Lina, Malibu is a<br />

cool collection <strong>of</strong> beach bungalows on a steep hillside overlooking the beach. <strong>The</strong>re’s also<br />

a small hotel block farther back. Beautiful orchids line the balcony. <strong>The</strong>re’s a cozy little<br />

sitting area near the entry, and the hotel’s restaurant <strong>of</strong>fers great views <strong>of</strong> Sokha Beach<br />

below and the sea beyond. <strong>The</strong>re’s a central dining area, the breakfast buffet is delicious,<br />

and Ms. Lina can, upon request, arrange for a unique Khmer-style royal meal. <strong>The</strong> rooms<br />

are simple, free-standing bungalows lining the precipitous steps along a verdant hillside<br />

path. <strong>The</strong>y are a little small and pokey, but have rustic charm. Electricity can be erratic<br />

here. At the bottom is a bar area and small private beach. <strong>The</strong>re are also air-conditioned<br />

apartment blocks near the entry at the top <strong>of</strong> the hill. Mosquito nets and bamboo furnishings<br />

give the place a certain Robinson Crusoe feel.<br />

Group 14, Mondol 4, Sangkat 4, Khan Mittapheap, Sihanoukville (on a small rise above the Sokha Beach<br />

Resort). & 012/733-334 or 016/770-277. www.malibu-bungalows.com. 19 units. $40–$45 double;<br />

$35–$45 bungalow. No credit cards. Amenities: Restaurant. In room: A/C (in rooms only, bungalows have<br />

fans), TV, fridge, minibar, no phone.<br />

157<br />

SOUTHERN CAMBODIA 8<br />

SIHANOUKVILLE

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