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The Best of Cambodia & Laos

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156<br />

SOUTHERN CAMBODIA<br />

8<br />

SIHANOUKVILLE<br />

Expensive<br />

<strong>The</strong> Independence Hotel This restored hotel has an excellent location on a<br />

private strip <strong>of</strong> sand on Independence Beach. <strong>The</strong> hotel used to be a showpiece <strong>of</strong> the<br />

royal family and once played host to elite dignitaries. Former King Norodom Sihanouk<br />

himself was responsible for the interior design <strong>of</strong> the hotel back in the 1960s, but don’t<br />

expect royal appointments. <strong>The</strong> rooms have a musty smell and bland decor. Furniture is<br />

polished blond wood and chintzy, pink upholstered chairs. Floors are boring white tile.<br />

<strong>The</strong> layout <strong>of</strong> the deluxe rooms is awkward, there’s a large entranceway, but the bed is<br />

tightly crammed between two walls—you may have to turn sideways to get into bed. <strong>The</strong><br />

views, however, are amazing; many rooms overlook the ocean. <strong>The</strong>re’s also a beautiful<br />

garden walkway at the base <strong>of</strong> a rocky outcrop along Independence Beach. Staff is also<br />

very friendly and very eager to please.<br />

St. 2 Thnou, Sagkat No. 3, Khan Mittapheap. & 034/934-300. Fax 034/933-660. www.independence<br />

hotel.net. 52 units. $140–$160 double; $250–$450 suite. MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; concierge;<br />

Internet; outdoor pool; room service; spa. In room: A/C, TV, fridge, hair dryer, minibar.<br />

Sokha Beach Resort Where the Independence is all cool and modern architecture,<br />

Sokha Beach Resort is finely executed kitschy Khmer. You can see the traditional,<br />

winged red-tile ro<strong>of</strong>s from a good distance, and the public spaces are decorated with<br />

carved stone reliefs and Khmer statues. Room decoration is functional, with bamboo<br />

rattan chairs and tables, and terra-cotta floors. Club suites have swanky ’70s-style circular<br />

beds and all suites come with an ocean view. If you’re looking for something special, rent<br />

one <strong>of</strong> their 10 villas. <strong>The</strong> villas bear ’50s/’60s box-style architecture and were originally<br />

military housing units. <strong>The</strong> exterior is done in unfinished gray brick and white stone<br />

walls, and a small driveway leads to a private entrance. <strong>The</strong> bedrooms have the same<br />

decor as those in the hotel. Each villa has a small living room and a separate garden space,<br />

so you’re really set apart from other hotel guests.<br />

Tip: If you’re on a luxe budget, book a room at the Sokha Inn. It lies at the northern<br />

end <strong>of</strong> the property, about a 2-minute walk from the main entrance, but golf carts will<br />

shuttle you back and forth. Rooms are $85. Sure, it kind <strong>of</strong> feels like you’re staying in the<br />

“servants’ quarters,” but you have access to all the hotel’s amenities for about a third <strong>of</strong><br />

the price.<br />

St. 2 Thnou, Sangkat 4, Mittapheap District, Sihanoukville. & 034/935-999. Fax 034/935-888. www.<br />

sokhahotels.com. 166 units (Sokha Inn: 24 units). $250–$300 double; $350–$380 villa; from $500 suite.<br />

MC, V. Amenities: 2 restaurants; 3 bars; babysitting; bike rentals; children’s play area (jungle gym) and<br />

planned activities; health club; room service; spa; tennis courts; watersports equipment rentals; Wi-Fi.<br />

In room: A/C, TV, fridge, hair dryer, minibar.<br />

Inexpensive<br />

Beach Club Resort Light, bright, and thoughtfully conceived, this spacious<br />

Australian-owned resort near Ochheuteal Beach is a bit <strong>of</strong> a gem. Built around a central<br />

pool, the whole feel is one <strong>of</strong> space and comfort. <strong>The</strong> open-air restaurant is relaxed with<br />

excellent food and zipping Wi-Fi Internet. <strong>The</strong>re are a number <strong>of</strong> shaded areas around<br />

the pool to read, and all in all it is one <strong>of</strong> those holiday venues that one is loath ever to<br />

leave. <strong>The</strong> staff is charming although they can only speak in a good-natured yell, garnished<br />

by a friendly cackle. <strong>The</strong> rooms have large windows and are light and airy, in<br />

keeping with the atmosphere <strong>of</strong> the resort as a whole.<br />

St. 23 Tola. & 034/933-634. www.beachclubcambodia.com. 33 units. $35 standard; $39 superior; $60<br />

deluxe; $65 family. MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; Internet. In room: A/C, TV, fridge.

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