The Best of Cambodia & Laos

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SOUTHERN CAMBODIA
8
SIHANOUKVILLE
ways the nicest beach of all since you get the white sand and the azure sea without the
crowds or, in the evening, the ever-blasting sound systems. Directly north of Serendipity
is Sokha Beach, entirely appropriated by the Sokha Resort and Spa. This is a good
option if you want peace, quiet, and unmatched safety and are prepared to pay for it.
North of Sokha past a large promontory is Independence Beach and north of that again
is Victory Beach. There are a number of beachside resorts along both as well as some
large Khmer restaurants. The south end of Victory Beach is largely a Russian enclave
(Victory Beach as a whole is owned by a Ukrainian speculator), while the north end takes
you on to the port.
Getting There
BY PLANE Commercial flights to Sihanoukville were terminated in 2007 after a plane
crash. The small airport is situated 17km (11 miles) to the east of the town. It is not
certain if and when commercial flights will resume.
BY BUS The bus station is located in the northeast of the downtown area next to Psar
Leu. It is essentially a large, dusty parking lot. You will be greeted by platoons of motos
and tuk-tuks. A ride to Ochheuteal Beach costs between $1 and $2 by motorbike and $3
to $5 by tuk-tuk.
Traveling from Phnom Penh, National Rte. 4 has long been one of Cambodia’s best
roads. It was constructed in the ’60s and for a long time was virtually Cambodia’s only
decent road. Sorya and GST run services from the bus station at Psar Thmei (Central
Market) in Phnom Penh. The journey takes about 4 hours and costs $4.50. You can book
through a guesthouse or just buy your ticket at the station itself. The first bus leaves at
7:15am, the last one at 2:30pm. Mekong Express also runs two buses a day for $6, and
if you are tall it might be worth considering since the seats on Sorya and GST buses since
Mekong Express buses are a little roomier. Mekong Express buses depart from their office
in Phnom Penh at No. 87 Sisowath Quay, on the corner of Street 102 near the riverfront.
Rith Mony and Virak Buntham run buses from Sihanoukville to Koh Kong and the
Thai border ($6–$8) with an 8:30am departure time. There are also minibus services
running this route (4 hr.). There are no regular bus services from Sihanoukville to Kampot
but there are minibus services leaving at 8:30am. The journey takes 2 hours, and are
best booked through your guesthouse. Alternatively, you can get a seat in a shared taxi.
This costs $5, but you are better off paying $10 for the whole front seat. All services from
Sihanoukville arrive and depart from the central bus station downtown next to Psar Leu.
BY TAXI Taxi is the fastest and most comfortable way to get to Sihanoukville from
Phnom Penh. To charter the whole vehicle costs about $40. You can pick them up on the
south side of Psar Thmei.
BY BOAT There used to be a hydrofoil service from Koh Kong to Sihanoukville, a
dangerous trip that is now suspended. If it does reappear, be aware that the vessels are not
designed for the open sea and storms blow up quickly on those waters.
BY TRAIN There is no longer train service to Sihanoukville although the tracks remain
in place.
Getting Around
Sihanoukville is very spread out. There are plenty of motos and tuk-tuks. A moto from
the beach to town or vice versa costs $1 in the daytime and $2 at night. A ride from