The Best of Cambodia & Laos

8
Southern Cambodia
When you think of Cambodia,
visions of tranquil beaches probably aren’t
the first thing that come to mind, which is
a shame. It isn’t much when compared
with the quality and quantity of beach living
in nearby Thailand, or even along the
coast of Vietnam, but the southern coast
of Cambodia boasts some fine sandy
stretches worthy of putting your feet up
for a few days, especially after some heavyduty
temple touring or bouncing around
the roads of rural Cambodia.
Rte. 4, which connects Phnom Penh
with Cambodia’s only port at Kompong
Som, or Sihanoukville after the former
king, was built by the United States to
facilitate Cambodian trade and the influx
of aid starting from the mid-1960s. Just
adjacent to the busy Sihanoukville port,
1 SIHANOUKVILLE
you can find some lovely little beach areas,
most of which are speckled with budget
bungalows and groovy bars owned by
Western expatriates. The town of Kampot
is a lazy little river town, just a grid of
mostly colonial-style houses along a quiet,
lazy river, but another good place to kick
back. You might also visit nearby Kep,
which was a French colonial vacation spot
whose 1950s/1960s-era villas lay in ruin.
It’s also a seafood mecca, and worth visiting
just for its Kep crab in Kampot pepper.
Connections by bus with Sihanoukville
are convenient, and many choose to do
this region in a rented vehicle or even by
affordable local taxicab. So, if you’re stuck
in Phnom Penh for a few days waiting out
a Vietnam visa, hit the beaches. You’ll be
surprised.
Also called Kompong Som, Sihanoukville was first founded in the ’50s as a deep-sea port.
The town itself is a mess of dusty concrete and grubby shop fronts. The main beach areas
are where the action is, particularly around Ochheuteal Beach. This beach and the district
behind it are now replete with any number of hotels, guesthouses, restaurants, and
nightlife venues. It is a pleasant place, though the beach at the north end can get pretty
crowded. The other side of town around Victory Beach is developing in an entirely
incongruous fashion. The beach itself has seen an influx of Russian money which has led
to some bizarre venues, including a disco with a real airplane in it and a restaurant you
share with snakes and crocodiles. Behind the beach around Victory Hill is a small district
that has a couple of fine restaurants. The area is blighted by an increasing amount of
sleaze, so you may want to keep your distance.
ESSENTIALS
Orientation
Sihanoukville is set on a wide peninsular area jutting south and east into the Gulf of
Thailand. The peninsula is shielded by islands—Koh Rong, Koh Rong Sam Leuem, Koh
T Kiev, and Ko Ses are among the many. Starting on the north end of the peninsula,
you’ll find the busy and dusty port area, just south of which, tracing the coast, you’ll find
Victory Beach, Independence Beach, Sokha Beach, and Ochheuteal Beach to the far