The Best of Cambodia & Laos

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BATTAMBANG & NORTHERN CAMBODIA
7
RATANAKIRI
ATTRACTIONS
Irrawaddy Dolphins These shy creatures found near Kratie are highly endangered,
the casualties of hunting for their oils and collateral damage from dynamite fishing. Forty
years ago, it’s estimated that the dolphins here numbered in the four figures. Now there
are estimated to be fewer than 100. There was some hope that the ban on net fishing in
these waters and an increase in conservation awareness was beginning to have a positive
effect on dolphin numbers. It is certainly true that local people now realize it is very
much in their interest to see the dolphins preserved since they are a valuable tourism
resource and a source of income. Pollutants in the river, however, are driving the dolphins
to extinction. The dolphins can be found at Kampi about 15km (9 1 ⁄2 miles) north of
town and your guesthouse will be able to point you in the direction of a motodup for the
afternoon. The trip costs about $4. Once at Kampi, a boat out to view the dolphins costs
about $4 per person. Both the Star Guesthouse and the You Hong Guesthouse run an
all-inclusive package. Once you’re on the water, get the boatman to switch off his engine.
You then simply sit there and relax, scanning the waters waiting for these elusive creatures
to break the surface. It becomes a fairly mesmerizing experience and very satisfying when
you catch sight of a few dolphins.
4 RATANAKIRI
Cambodia’s remote northeast is a mixture of wild and unforgiving jungle, rolling cultivated
hills, and red, red earth. It is home to a mosaic of indigenous peoples collectively
dubbed the Khmer Loeu (“high Khmer”), a reference to the area’s geography, not their
historical or social status. They have their own culture, history, and languages and have
historically been far removed from the lowland Khmer. The physical and environmental
character of the province is made up of an impressive range of high land with undulating
hills and mountains, a level plateau, watershed lowlands, crater lakes, rivers, and waterfalls.
Forest cover varies from area to area, from the dense impenetrable forest in the
northern reaches, which are still rich in wildlife, to the drier and sparser forest, found in
the southwest. Similarly, the soil types present range from rich volcanic soil to the sandy
soil found near rivers. Rapacious logging is taking a heavy toll here. Ratanakiri has also
long been an area of profitable gem mining some although the whole district is on the
edge of being totally mined out.
It was to this region that Pol Pot and his henchmen fled in the ’60s when Sihanouk
decided to crack down on those he dubbed with contempt the Khmer Rouge. In many
ways these men on the run found a willing and loyal audience among the tribal peoples
of this remote region. They had often been discriminated against and bonded into slavery.
These days this region is emerging as a very popular eco-tourism destination and
facilities, while still basic, are improving with each passing year.
BANLUNG
Banlung is the capital of Ratanakiri Province and is the base from which you can explore
the surrounding countryside with waterfalls, lakes, and villages.
Getting There & Getting Around
It is possible to travel directly by bus to and from Phnom Penh to Banlung, the capital
of Ratanakiri, stopping in Kratie. Several minibuses offer the service, which costs about